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Everything posted by FenwickG

  1. This is a bone tip plate and some bone can be quite porous. I coat bone tip plates with super glue to fill the pores when I am finishing them, otherwise I get black specks like these when I am polishing them with micro mesh.
  2. I have a jig that Alberti Design made which was a prototype. It aligns the hole parallel with the bottom facet as well as centering it in the stick. I also have a Bow Badger which works well but the Alberti jig I feel is more precise, especially on old worn sticks. Check with John Alberti at Alberti Design to see if he is selling this jig commercially.
  3. Take a small shaving out of the mortice and put it in a few drops of water. If it is pernambuco the water will turn pink ,other woods won't. You only need a scraping from the bow.
  4. I have done business with Chuck over the phone for several years now and have always had an enjoyable productive conversation with him.My experience with Knilling pegs is that they seem to have or develop problems that have not shown up on the PegHeds . Needless to say I now only use PegHeds which are made in the US, not offshore like Knillings are.
  5. Merry Christmas and a Prosperous New Year to All.
  6. The crack in the bow can be repaired with a butt bushing used to reinforce the glued crack. I use H2 epoxy as an adhesive, others use super glue for this type of repair.
  7. I used to use basswood, but now I prefer poplar for my plugs and wedge.
  8. The lathe is only the first expense, the tooling can add up quickly and in some cases can cost more than the original lathe cost.
  9. A Hardinge HSL with a compound slide will do nicely. I have one but use a Grizzley version of the mini bench top lathe for working on buttons.
  10. Silk wears quite well, but does get dirty and is difficult to clean. Silver tinsel, which is silver wrapped around silk, tarnishes and if cleaned too hard can break the silver wrapping. For silk it seems best to go for darker colors that don't show the dirt as quickly.
  11. The slide and button are bone, not ivory. They are too porous to be ivory.
  12. That is a clever repair Conor.
  13. Koa is a good tonewood, but it would lack the strength and elastic properties that are needed for a bow. There are other African and South American woods that are more suitable and can approach pernambuco. Even some flamed pernambuco is not as good as a plain stick. Every one has different playability properties.
  14. FenwickG

    Bass bar wha...?

    2B or not 2B; that is the question.
  15. FenwickG


    The one pictured is a copy made in Burma. At least this is what I was told. I have two of these; one with a brass horn which is very heavy, and one with an aluminum horn. I also have a real one that was made in 1910 which is very nice. The first two I mentioned are for sale if you would like to PM me.
  16. Silk Thread is very strong for its weight and would affect the balance minimally. Soak the thread with superglue and file the surface smooth with a fine mill file, then give it another coat of superglue, which should also be filed smooth. Then polish it with micro mesh. It should save the bow, providing it is worth saving in the first place. Any straightening should be done before the thread is used.
  17. I wasn't aware that W E Hill and son made folk fiddles until I checked out this listing on eBay number 371491727920. I contacted the seller suggesting that it might not be genuine and the Hill label might possibly be from a cake of rosin. He did return my message and informed me that the Hills operated a retail store and handled many kinds of violins including this one. I learn something new every day.
  18. FenwickG

    Old Tools: Anvil

    My Vulcan is dead as well, being made of a type of cast iron. Fisher anvils were cast iron with a steel plate fused to the top. They have no rebound which the company claimed was a great advantage because all of the force of the hammer was absorbed by the work piece and not partially used to bounce the hammer upwards. Ad man spin. Your German pattern one I would imagine is newer than the older English and American wrought iron anvils and is probably made of cast steel like the Sweedish Sodifor anvils. I did do quite a bit of blacksmithing a few years ago, but started making bows, which is cooler , quieter, and more lucrative.
  19. FenwickG

    Old Tools: Anvil

    My largest is a 253 pound Peter Wright that originally came from the US Springfield Armory. the smallest is an 85 pound Hay Buddon which is much easier to carry around than the Peter Wright.
  20. FenwickG

    Old Tools: Anvil

    Odd, with my anvils, I have six, the cast ones like Fisher and Vulcan are dead with no ring, while the forged ones, Peter Wright and Hay Buddon will deafen you. Cast ones are much easier on the ears. Many blacksmiths wrap a chain around the waist of the anvil to deaden the sound. Also, forged anvils have more rebound of the hammer than cast ones.
  21. I have resharpened needle files as well as regular mill and double cut files with good results. I also sharpened a four in hand rasp, but it took three applications to get the coarse teeth sharp. I have been told sulfuric acid works well but haven't tried it or any other acids for that matter other than muratic, which is easy to get at the hardware store. I should have mentioned that sharpening with muratic acid should be done outside. The fumes are nasty and will rust any iron tool that they come in contact with.