FenwickG

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Everything posted by FenwickG

  1. That is a clever repair Conor.
  2. Koa is a good tonewood, but it would lack the strength and elastic properties that are needed for a bow. There are other African and South American woods that are more suitable and can approach pernambuco. Even some flamed pernambuco is not as good as a plain stick. Every one has different playability properties.
  3. FenwickG

    Bass bar wha...?

    2B or not 2B; that is the question.
  4. FenwickG

    Stroviol

    The one pictured is a copy made in Burma. At least this is what I was told. I have two of these; one with a brass horn which is very heavy, and one with an aluminum horn. I also have a real one that was made in 1910 which is very nice. The first two I mentioned are for sale if you would like to PM me.
  5. Silk Thread is very strong for its weight and would affect the balance minimally. Soak the thread with superglue and file the surface smooth with a fine mill file, then give it another coat of superglue, which should also be filed smooth. Then polish it with micro mesh. It should save the bow, providing it is worth saving in the first place. Any straightening should be done before the thread is used.
  6. I wasn't aware that W E Hill and son made folk fiddles until I checked out this listing on eBay number 371491727920. I contacted the seller suggesting that it might not be genuine and the Hill label might possibly be from a cake of rosin. He did return my message and informed me that the Hills operated a retail store and handled many kinds of violins including this one. I learn something new every day.
  7. FenwickG

    Old Tools: Anvil

    My Vulcan is dead as well, being made of a type of cast iron. Fisher anvils were cast iron with a steel plate fused to the top. They have no rebound which the company claimed was a great advantage because all of the force of the hammer was absorbed by the work piece and not partially used to bounce the hammer upwards. Ad man spin. Your German pattern one I would imagine is newer than the older English and American wrought iron anvils and is probably made of cast steel like the Sweedish Sodifor anvils. I did do quite a bit of blacksmithing a few years ago, but started making bows, which is cooler , quieter, and more lucrative.
  8. FenwickG

    Old Tools: Anvil

    My largest is a 253 pound Peter Wright that originally came from the US Springfield Armory. the smallest is an 85 pound Hay Buddon which is much easier to carry around than the Peter Wright.
  9. FenwickG

    Old Tools: Anvil

    Odd, with my anvils, I have six, the cast ones like Fisher and Vulcan are dead with no ring, while the forged ones, Peter Wright and Hay Buddon will deafen you. Cast ones are much easier on the ears. Many blacksmiths wrap a chain around the waist of the anvil to deaden the sound. Also, forged anvils have more rebound of the hammer than cast ones.
  10. I have resharpened needle files as well as regular mill and double cut files with good results. I also sharpened a four in hand rasp, but it took three applications to get the coarse teeth sharp. I have been told sulfuric acid works well but haven't tried it or any other acids for that matter other than muratic, which is easy to get at the hardware store. I should have mentioned that sharpening with muratic acid should be done outside. The fumes are nasty and will rust any iron tool that they come in contact with.
  11. I have sharpened files for the past eight years. It works well. I have two 6" mill files that have been resharpened at least twenty times and are still going strong. I made a 1-1/2" pvc tube 14" long with a cap on one end. I cover the files in it over the length of the teeth with undiluted muratic (HCl) acid for two and a half hours, then I rinse them off with cold water to remove any acid that might be still on them, and then dry them with a towel. I used to use warm water, but a rust bloom would form on them before I could dry them. If you don't think this works, keep buying new files, but send the old ones to me.
  12. I sewed a pair of pants ...with two left legs ...once On a violin??
  13. Bill, Michael Vann still sells this item on his website. It is a fine polish, but like most polishes it should be used with some prudence.
  14. I have been searching for some time trying to find larger diameter radius gauges. I came across these ones on eBay. #161189892857 and #151203057943. These cover radius from 52mm to 100mm. For about $10.00 each I now don't have to make more gauges for fractional instruments, cellos and basses.
  15. It should be a concern, but so far I haven't had a problem. Perhaps it is a case of the Lord looking after drunks and fools; and I'm sober.
  16. If you apply the accelerant before the superglue it doesn't turn white for some reason. I have had glue lines turn white with accelerant before I reversed the two.
  17. Bill, we are not so bothered with Maggini violins in the Calgary region, only a plethora of Strads. Yours must be a Northern phenomenon.
  18. Rue, if you need leather to work with, go to a thrift store (Value Village) and find a leather jacket. They are inexpensive and will provide all the leather you will need to practice on and use when you are proficient. You could also use your Gucci handbag that currently doesn't match your wardrobe. I use a straight razor to bevel the leather. Any knife you use though, has to be super sharp.
  19. With bows, the tip material is about balance. Ivory, elephant and mammoth, and composite (plastic) are lighter than silver or other metals. Bone is harder to work with, can be porous and is hard and brittle. These are the main reasons that many bow makers and repairers avoid it.Plastic looks cheap and is not as durable, and the casein tips are hard to work with and seem to be very brittle. With the availability of mammoth ivory there is no need to use elephant ivory, but has been mentioned many times the "authorities" can't tell the difference. As I see it, civilization is being micro managed and litigated out of existence.
  20. FenwickG

    Pegheds

    You have to look closely at Pegheds and perfection pegs to see that they aren't regular pegs. The giveaway is the shaft in the pegbox is smaller than a regular peg would be. The buttons on the Pegheds are more refined than Perfection pegs seem to be. Peghed components are made in the US, and I have been told that Perfection components are made offshore. Wittner mechanical pegs are a bit different than the other two. The reduction gears are in the head, giving it a bit bulbous shape rather than in the main body. Wittner pegs are all composition other than the gearing. The other two are composition, aluminium, and in most cases the buttons are wood.
  21. FenwickG

    Pegheds

    If you haven't tried them, why dismiss them? They are an excellent product. FenwickG - also from the Canadian Prairies, but farther west.