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Posts posted by FenwickG

  1. Put everything in a large leakproof plastic bag and introduce Halon fire extinguisher gas. seal the bag and leave it for a day. The gas won't harm the instrument or bow but takes the oxygen out of the air and suffocates the little devils. Halon is hard to get since it has stopped being used for fire extinguishers other than race cars and aircraft.

  2. I have been watching Rodney Mohr's videos about bow making on Youtube. They are very informative and detailed. I took a couple of workshops from Rodney at Oberlein and they were well worth the price. These ones are free. Check them out if you are searching for information about bow making from a Master. They are under covid 19 bow making.

  3. No I didn't increase the angle which was 20 degrees on the blade. That angle works fine on the O1 steel. The best chisels I have for holding an edge are my old Addis cast steel ones. I think we are so hung up on high tech items we forget what we had that actually worked.

  4. I must confess that I didn't have a good experience with PM V 11 steel. I have a Veritas pocket plane that I bought to plane bow blanks. Putting it simply it wouldn't cut the blank. When I checked the blade the edge had crumbled and resembled a saw. I contacted Lee Valley and they sent me a replacement. After installing the new blade, which was very sharp, I took 11 strokes with the plane. It stopped cutting and the edge was sharp on both sides where it didn't touch the pernambuco and the middle had crumbled away like the original blade. Since V 11 is the only steel that is used in this plane I bought some O1 and made a blade from it. I now have a plane that works fine and retains it's edge. So in my opinion V 11 will work on some wood and not work on others.

  5. You will need a new tip plate and liner. A lot of the tension from the plug can be placed on the back of the tip plate. It appears that the adhesive either wasn't there or gave way. Re gluing the old pieces is not going to reinforce the mortise, only a new tip plate will.

  6. 9 hours ago, Jerry Pasewicz said:

    I do not know if it is readily available yet, I have had a second on order for quite some time.  I will post a pic when I am back at the shop. 

    Okay this is it:



    The bow rests on the v block on the the 2 90 degree frog underslide surfaces.  You can see the drill mocked up, the placement of that is adjustable to where you want it.   
    Basically, it is like putting the bow into a v block on the lathe compound and moving it up and down to get where you want to be.


  7. I have one of the Grizzly small micro lathes similar to the ones sold by Freight Harbor. I bought a self centering 4 jaw chuck which was a royal pain to mount. The spindle isn't threaded like most lathes, but has a flange with three holes to bolt the chuck to. After drilling three holes in the chuck, aided by a dial indicator, and eating up a large amount of time I got it centered. It works fine and has the benefit of having a power feed. A longer bed would be an improvement on mine. One model of the Harbor Freight lathe has a longer bed.

  8. To fill the chip and not have it as shiny as a repair using ebony dust (which I never use) and ca glue, I use an ebony crumble. The crumble I use with good results is made from the shavings left over from shaping a peg . Over fill the chip with ebony crumble, cover it with a bit of cling wrap, apply finger pressure to the wrap and crumble and soak it with ca glue. Now you can file the repair to shape and finish the repair.

    With crumble you get more wood product in the chip and not as much ca glue as you get using dust which makes it shine.

    The crack can be glued together by pressing it together and using a good quality ca glue after removing the pearl slide. For both repairs clean the chip and crack with acetone to remove any oils or waxes.

  9. I just had two taps made to fit the coarse threads on many of the old German trade bows. Taylor tools manufactured them, a M3x80 and a 5x30. They weren't cheap but I seem to run into a lot of these threads enough to warrent the expense.

  10. I have dismantled a piano. Far too much work for the usable wood harvested. The soundboard spruce is too thin to be of much use, but the braces on the soundboard would make nice bass bars. The 3x3 wood used on the frame was full of knots under the finish, but I have seen nice clear wood used on newer pianos for these parts. The only wood that was usable to me was the board that went across the back for lifting turned out to be willow. And the metal harp and strings are heavy and a pain to get rid of.