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Everything posted by FenwickG

  1. I have one of these that I never use. I find separate blocks to hold the head and frog work better for me.
  2. You can use a chisel plane or a file. I use a small draw knife.
  3. These replicas are very unbalanced and difficult to play because they want to rotate to the left. I had one like this with aluminum horns and have one just like it with brass horns that is impossible to play because of the added weight and useless tuners. I also have another that was built in Germany in 1910 that is much easier to play because it is lighter and way better balanced. The diaphragm seems to be better because the sound it produces is improved and not as metallic as these Asian ones. Apparently Heifetz recorded using a Stroh violin.
  4. If you want something that works get an old Delta 24" throat cast iron one. They are heavy and don't try to run away from you and the blade is supported when you are sawing.
  5. I am contemplating a two volume set on sound post designs. No illustrations, only descriptions. It should be an all time best seller.
  6. I applaud the effort put into the book, but for me it is one of the most boring tomes I have ever read. We have a display in the shop I work in of the worst specimens that have crossed our benches. It is much more interesting to mock and ridicule these efforts. To each his own.
  7. Pernambuco will turn water pink. Ipe will not.
  8. All the best to everyone in 2021.
  9. Put everything in a large leakproof plastic bag and introduce Halon fire extinguisher gas. seal the bag and leave it for a day. The gas won't harm the instrument or bow but takes the oxygen out of the air and suffocates the little devils. Halon is hard to get since it has stopped being used for fire extinguishers other than race cars and aircraft.
  10. There is a village in Alberta, Canada north of Calgary that is named Cremona. A perfect place for a maker to make genuine Cremonese violins
  11. I have been watching Rodney Mohr's videos about bow making on Youtube. They are very informative and detailed. I took a couple of workshops from Rodney at Oberlein and they were well worth the price. These ones are free. Check them out if you are searching for information about bow making from a Master. They are under covid 19 bow making.
  12. Why bother. I have a blade that works now.
  13. No I didn't increase the angle which was 20 degrees on the blade. That angle works fine on the O1 steel. The best chisels I have for holding an edge are my old Addis cast steel ones. I think we are so hung up on high tech items we forget what we had that actually worked.
  14. I must confess that I didn't have a good experience with PM V 11 steel. I have a Veritas pocket plane that I bought to plane bow blanks. Putting it simply it wouldn't cut the blank. When I checked the blade the edge had crumbled and resembled a saw. I contacted Lee Valley and they sent me a replacement. After installing the new blade, which was very sharp, I took 11 strokes with the plane. It stopped cutting and the edge was sharp on both sides where it didn't touch the pernambuco and the middle had crumbled away like the original blade. Since V 11 is the only steel that is used in this plane I bought some O1 and made a blade from it. I now have a plane that works fine and retains it's edge. So in my opinion V 11 will work on some wood and not work on others.
  15. Happy Birthday David. I hope Dolly gave you a nice present.
  16. You will need a new tip plate and liner. A lot of the tension from the plug can be placed on the back of the tip plate. It appears that the adhesive either wasn't there or gave way. Re gluing the old pieces is not going to reinforce the mortise, only a new tip plate will.
  17. I will try again. I have used an Alberti for a couple of years now and for bushing sticks it is much superior to a lathe. It is more accurate and you don't have the stick whipping around. I also have a Bow Badger which is better than a lathe but not as accurate as the Alberti.
  18. I have one of the Grizzly small micro lathes similar to the ones sold by Freight Harbor. I bought a self centering 4 jaw chuck which was a royal pain to mount. The spindle isn't threaded like most lathes, but has a flange with three holes to bolt the chuck to. After drilling three holes in the chuck, aided by a dial indicator, and eating up a large amount of time I got it centered. It works fine and has the benefit of having a power feed. A longer bed would be an improvement on mine. One model of the Harbor Freight lathe has a longer bed.
  19. Perhaps you could make guitar picks.
  20. To fill the chip and not have it as shiny as a repair using ebony dust (which I never use) and ca glue, I use an ebony crumble. The crumble I use with good results is made from the shavings left over from shaping a peg . Over fill the chip with ebony crumble, cover it with a bit of cling wrap, apply finger pressure to the wrap and crumble and soak it with ca glue. Now you can file the repair to shape and finish the repair. With crumble you get more wood product in the chip and not as much ca glue as you get using dust which makes it shine. The crack can be glued together by pressing it together and using a good quality ca glue after removing the pearl slide. For both repairs clean the chip and crack with acetone to remove any oils or waxes.
  21. Take a small scraping from the bottom of the mortise, put it in a few drops of water. If the water turns pink you likely have pernambuco.
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