FenwickG

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Everything posted by FenwickG

  1. Take a small scraping from the bottom of the mortise, put it in a few drops of water. If the water turns pink you likely have pernambuco.
  2. I prefer #1. The grain seems more dense on the head than #2.
  3. I just had two taps made to fit the coarse threads on many of the old German trade bows. Taylor tools manufactured them, a M3x80 and a 5x30. They weren't cheap but I seem to run into a lot of these threads enough to warrent the expense.
  4. Acetone will dissolve the ca glue.
  5. I have dismantled a piano. Far too much work for the usable wood harvested. The soundboard spruce is too thin to be of much use, but the braces on the soundboard would make nice bass bars. The 3x3 wood used on the frame was full of knots under the finish, but I have seen nice clear wood used on newer pianos for these parts. The only wood that was usable to me was the board that went across the back for lifting turned out to be willow. And the metal harp and strings are heavy and a pain to get rid of.
  6. There is Baxter's database that catalogs a whole host of makers. I see that you can get it on Amazon. The person (Baxter ?) used to post here as Fubbi2.
  7. It is called the Alberti Frog Eyelet Fixture and the cost for a violin, cello,and bass fixture with all the drills and bushings is $385.00.
  8. Alberti Design has a tool for installing and repairing broken eyelets. It makes both jobs easier and very precise.
  9. In a small pill cup put a few drops of water. Take a narrow chisel and scrape a very minute shaving from the bottom of the mortise. It only needs to be about one to one and a half mm by 1/4mm and drop it in the water. Pernambuco will turn the water pink shortly, other woods that I have tried have had no effect or at best turn it a yellowish tint.
  10. It is called a butt lap. (no snickering please). To keep the balance about the same use a very thin piece of leather. The stuff I use is from some sort of sea snake. I glue a piece of scotch tape that just covers the brand to protect it and use Titebond glue on the leather.
  11. This is an interesting project. Since I play a washtub bass, which by the way is a lot of fun, one problem I see is that your bridge is located next to the rim instead of in the center where the most resonance is. I think your sound is going to be thin and bright, not full. Perhaps eliminate the tailpiece and bridge and attach your strings to the center of the tub. My bass has only one string but there is no reason that you can't attach them in an arc to duplicate the bridge.
  12. I think you are right David. Wiping off the edge of the tip should remove them.
  13. This is a bone tip plate and some bone can be quite porous. I coat bone tip plates with super glue to fill the pores when I am finishing them, otherwise I get black specks like these when I am polishing them with micro mesh.
  14. I have a jig that Alberti Design made which was a prototype. It aligns the hole parallel with the bottom facet as well as centering it in the stick. I also have a Bow Badger which works well but the Alberti jig I feel is more precise, especially on old worn sticks. Check with John Alberti at Alberti Design to see if he is selling this jig commercially.
  15. Take a small shaving out of the mortice and put it in a few drops of water. If it is pernambuco the water will turn pink ,other woods won't. You only need a scraping from the bow.
  16. FenwickG

    PegHeds....

    I have done business with Chuck over the phone for several years now and have always had an enjoyable productive conversation with him.My experience with Knilling pegs is that they seem to have or develop problems that have not shown up on the PegHeds . Needless to say I now only use PegHeds which are made in the US, not offshore like Knillings are.
  17. Merry Christmas and a Prosperous New Year to All.
  18. The crack in the bow can be repaired with a butt bushing used to reinforce the glued crack. I use H2 epoxy as an adhesive, others use super glue for this type of repair.
  19. I used to use basswood, but now I prefer poplar for my plugs and wedge.
  20. The lathe is only the first expense, the tooling can add up quickly and in some cases can cost more than the original lathe cost.
  21. A Hardinge HSL with a compound slide will do nicely. I have one but use a Grizzley version of the mini bench top lathe for working on buttons.
  22. Silk wears quite well, but does get dirty and is difficult to clean. Silver tinsel, which is silver wrapped around silk, tarnishes and if cleaned too hard can break the silver wrapping. For silk it seems best to go for darker colors that don't show the dirt as quickly.
  23. The slide and button are bone, not ivory. They are too porous to be ivory.
  24. That is a clever repair Conor.