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About FenwickG

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  1. Transitional bow of interest

    The slide and button are bone, not ivory. They are too porous to be ivory.
  2. Bow crack repair.

    That is a clever repair Conor.
  3. Bow making making

    Koa is a good tonewood, but it would lack the strength and elastic properties that are needed for a bow. There are other African and South American woods that are more suitable and can approach pernambuco. Even some flamed pernambuco is not as good as a plain stick. Every one has different playability properties.
  4. Bass bar wha...?

    2B or not 2B; that is the question.
  5. Stroviol

    The one pictured is a copy made in Burma. At least this is what I was told. I have two of these; one with a brass horn which is very heavy, and one with an aluminum horn. I also have a real one that was made in 1910 which is very nice. The first two I mentioned are for sale if you would like to PM me.
  6. Concert Conduct

    Good Heavens! Did this take place in Saskatoon? Shocking!
  7. is bow crack repair viable

    Silk Thread is very strong for its weight and would affect the balance minimally. Soak the thread with superglue and file the surface smooth with a fine mill file, then give it another coat of superglue, which should also be filed smooth. Then polish it with micro mesh. It should save the bow, providing it is worth saving in the first place. Any straightening should be done before the thread is used.
  8. Marking length of bow hair

    A lead pencil.
  9. Genuine W E Hill violin

    I wasn't aware that W E Hill and son made folk fiddles until I checked out this listing on eBay number 371491727920. I contacted the seller suggesting that it might not be genuine and the Hill label might possibly be from a cake of rosin. He did return my message and informed me that the Hills operated a retail store and handled many kinds of violins including this one. I learn something new every day.
  10. Maintenance Workshop for Teachers

    What is caulk? Do you mean chalk?
  11. Toolchest for tiny anarchist

  12. Old Tools: Anvil

    My Vulcan is dead as well, being made of a type of cast iron. Fisher anvils were cast iron with a steel plate fused to the top. They have no rebound which the company claimed was a great advantage because all of the force of the hammer was absorbed by the work piece and not partially used to bounce the hammer upwards. Ad man spin. Your German pattern one I would imagine is newer than the older English and American wrought iron anvils and is probably made of cast steel like the Sweedish Sodifor anvils. I did do quite a bit of blacksmithing a few years ago, but started making bows, which is cooler , quieter, and more lucrative.
  13. Old Tools: Anvil

    My largest is a 253 pound Peter Wright that originally came from the US Springfield Armory. the smallest is an 85 pound Hay Buddon which is much easier to carry around than the Peter Wright.
  14. Old Tools: Anvil

    Odd, with my anvils, I have six, the cast ones like Fisher and Vulcan are dead with no ring, while the forged ones, Peter Wright and Hay Buddon will deafen you. Cast ones are much easier on the ears. Many blacksmiths wrap a chain around the waist of the anvil to deaden the sound. Also, forged anvils have more rebound of the hammer than cast ones.
  15. Tool question

    I have resharpened needle files as well as regular mill and double cut files with good results. I also sharpened a four in hand rasp, but it took three applications to get the coarse teeth sharp. I have been told sulfuric acid works well but haven't tried it or any other acids for that matter other than muratic, which is easy to get at the hardware store. I should have mentioned that sharpening with muratic acid should be done outside. The fumes are nasty and will rust any iron tool that they come in contact with.