geoff1954

I have tested for loose fittings or loose joints. No problem there. And the fact that the problem is exactly the same with two very different bridges confirms Christian's structural diagnosis. With cellos, it seems that the more resonant/lively the instrument, the worse the wolf. But not with violins?

Thanks for the several replies. I'm used to cello wolf notes, on the F or F sharp, where its hard to get the note to sound. However this violin wolf note is different: the note does sound but there's an extra nasty high-pitched sound. So maybe it shouldn't be called a wolf note. And it's very specific to D sharp and E, an octave above open E. I'll try adjusting the sound post again (which is new, by the way) and I've just ordered a wolf note eliminator. I'll report back. I set up a lot of student violins but this is a new problem for me.

I have a nasty wolf note: D sharp and E on the E string, and, to a lesser extent, open E and fingered D sharp and E on the A string. I've repositioned the sound post, changed the E string, and fitted a new bridge. No change, nasty harsh extra sound in exactly the same places. Any ideas? It's a decent JTL 4/4 violin, good sound apart from the wolf.

Thanks, M Alpert. Yes, I have a good supply of cheap bows to practice on. I'll make my own clamp, as you suggest.

I normally replace the tailpieces on the student quality violins I set up. Consequently I've built up a large number of unwanted old tailpieces, mainly 4/4. Would anybody like them, free? Just tell me how many you want, probably hundreds available. I just need the cost of the postage. I'm in the UK.

I'm going to have another go at rehairing bows! Last time I made a clamp for myself and bought hair, wire and glue. After a couple of disasters I gave up and gave the lot away. I can't find any bow clamps for sale* (I'm in the UK) or the other things I will need, except for horsehair. I can't even find plans for a bow clamp. Can anybody steer me in the right direction? Thanks. {*I tell a lie. I've found one, but at a silly price. }

If you are in the UK, and maybe elsewhere in Europe, you'll probably want your turnover to remain below the VAT threshold. (About £70 in the UK?) This will keep your paperwork to a minimum. So beware of high quantity low profit items.

I run a part-time violin repair and selling business in the UK. I would advise you not to invest in much stock. It's hard to make a living but topping up with other forms of income makes it viable for me. No need to have an accountant in the UK. Just keep a record of all money spent and all money received, with receipts. Filling in the online tax return, once a year, is very easy. I've been doing this for 12 years and the HMRC has never challenged anything. And don't forget to claim for heating and lighting. I assume you will not be hiring employees? That would be a big challenge.

A lot of 'student quality' violins pass through my hands. This 'wooliness' of tone in 4th position and above on the G string, and to a lesser extent on the D string, is very common. It's not wolf notes. I've not found an answer, other than buying a more expensive violin. This is one aspect of violins where I think you usually get what you pay for.

I have a couple of answer: I'm pretty sure it's a through neck. And, with the help of my best quality scientific magnifier, I've seen how the middle bout ribs are joined to the upper and lower. The middle rib is longer, forming the edge, and the upper/lower but onto it. Very artfully done, not visible to the naked eye (even with specs on.)

I do have some more photos which I'll post. I was unable to remove the endpin so not yet seen the neck joint inside. But I'll see what I can do with a mirror. TBH I was pleased when I tensioned the strings that the neck repair didn't fly apart.

Thanks for the answers so far. Given the length of fingerboard, similar to modern standards, I'm thinking 19th century. The boxwood pegs are ones I added, replacing a mixed set. So not a clue to anything, unfortunately.

I've been given an old fullsize violin. Stainer arching, baroque-type neck. I'd like to know if it is truly 18 century, or one of the German violins made with this 'old fashioned' design into the nineteenth century. I've come across a few of these later violins but generally they are quite crudely made, whereas this violin is finely carved. There is what appears to be an old pegbox crack to A string hole. Apparently stable. I would be reluctant to do my own cheek repair if the violin is 'the real thing'. Unlabelled, one-piece lower rib, no Mittenwald notch. Unusual ridge around the the pegbox and down the middle of the pegbox back. Very cleanly and elegantly carved f holes. Deep channeling around the edges of belly and back. Length of back 356 mm. Length of fingerboard 255 mm. The pegs have been added by me. I used a modern tailpiece to reduce use of the pegs, given the doubtful strength of the pegbox walls. I'm not able to see the corner blocks. There's been a severe break to the top of the neck, not repaired by me. I intend to leave well alone! Any suggestions as to where and when the violin was made would be appreciated greatly.

Thanks, all three of you who have replied. You've provided plenty of good ideas for me to try. I'll start by changing the lower strings - I currently have 'old' Jargar - and the tailpiece. If no luck, the bridge and soundpost will come next. I'll report back with the results. Thanks again. Geoff

The cello I play has a lovely tone. A modern Chinese one with a new set of Jargar strings. Just one problem, a 'muddy' sound in 4th position on the C string, and, to a lesser extent, on the G string. Any ideas how I could remedy this - without losing the pleasing tone in the the rest of the register.