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geoff1954's Achievements


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  1. Not sure why you would use 'peg soap' to cure slippery pegs. Wouldn't you want to increase friction? And chalk does this well.
  2. 'This 4/4 Gliga 2013 Birds eye maypole advanced student Gems 2 violin......' From the website of a specialist stringed instrument shop.
  3. I recently heard a lovely piece of violin music on the radio. I immediately found the music on IMSLP. Six flats! Why do they do it?
  4. I'd suggest buying online from a reputable specialist seller. They do exist. Prices are much lower because they don't have the same overheads as a shop. If the violin is no good, it can be returned. However be wary of buying a wooden bow online. Carbon fibre are more reliable. If you can stretch to, and find, a Gliga, that is what I would suggest. Another make which has impressed me for the money is the Primavera Loreato.
  5. Is it just me, or do other violinists find that it is not possible to press down a middle string without catching one or both strings either side? It makes some chords and some passages impossible to play. I know I could replace the nut with one with wider spacing, but that seems a bit drastic. Any other solutions?
  6. Get yourself a fullsize violin. 3/4 give a feeble sound and are harder to play.
  7. I've come across violins with plastic pegs several times, and automatically replaced them with wooden pegs. However, if the pegs fit correctly then should I be doing this? My recent arrival has plastic pegs which look like deep black ebony, and fit perfectly. Why change them? The shafts won't warp (as they do with cheap wooden pegs) and it doesn't look as if there will be wear to the peg shaft or to the pegbox wall. (I suspect I have disturbed a hornet's nest here.)
  8. I sold a violin recently, new strings on. The buyer, a young violin teacher, decided that I'd put the D and G strings on the wrong way round and swapped them. The G snapped and she reckoned the D had been overstretched. She bought two new strings. To be fair, she did apologise.
  9. I've almost finished work on a very severely damaged Maidstone 4/4 violin. Several cracks to the belly including soundpost. Someone has attempted to repair by splashing glue liberally, everywhere. Multiple chips and areas of loss to the varnish. I took it apart, fitted sp patch and other cleats, tidied up the varnish as much as I could. (It still looks awful but I draw the line at revarnishing.) The violin cost me almost nothing. I'll be selling it for almost nothing plus the cost of the strings. Do I regret time spent? Yes!
  10. Thanks for these replies. The cost of rehairing explains why so many of the old violins which I buy have hairless bows, and often also a modern bow with hair. It's a shame and is not in keeping with the need to recycle. But I accept what you say.
  11. I've just had a quote for £72 ($85) for rehairing a violin bow. No complications, just the rehair. Is this expensive? I know its a very specialised job (I've tried myself!) but surely it should take no more than half an hour to an expert?
  12. That sound post looks too low down to me. Take it down (by pulling the bottom of it via the bass soundhole), check the length of it, and reposition. Is the fingerboard off centre? If so, that would explain the bridge position. If not, just sacken the strings a little and push it sideways.
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