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geoff1954's Achievements


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  1. IBK, is your JTL viola a good one? Plays well?
  2. I've just put 'JTL viola' into the search box of this website and found one result: my own posting. I think I've answered my own question!
  3. Many JTL violins have passed through my hands, mainly, but not all, Medio Fino types. I've just acquired a 16 inch JTL viola. Incised purfling etc, definitely JTL. On looking online I can find very few of these, but quite a few JTL viola bows. Rather odd. Can anyone confirm that JTL made relatively few violas? If so, I wonder why?
  4. I was taught to play the cello as a youth so, when I taught myself to play the violin, I adapted cello fingerings. (I was taught cello by a teacher whose teacher had been taught by the then-famous Grutzmacher. He wrote some fiendish studies. Fiendish but musical. Apparently in Grutzmacher's day there was a dispute among cellists as to whether one should move up and down a string, or cross strings. I can't remember on which side of the dispute he stood.) But here's my question: With the cello one is taught 4th position next after 1st position. It's so easy, you just slide your thumb to the heel of the neck. So why are violinists so keen on 3rd position?
  5. 'Is it legal to take you’re firearm to a rehearsal/concert in Texas?' .............. Only if it is in a violin case.
  6. I suspect your new bow has no resin on it! They needs lots on new horsehair.
  7. I assume a professional luthier would have to charge more to repair these cracks than the violin is worth. Are there any amateur repairers near you? A further thought: have you checked that it has not already had a soundpost patch and cleats fitted? You would see them by looking through the tailpin hole. If so, the violin is playable. (But get some decent strings for it!)
  8. I have acquired a fullsize violin with the label 'PETER CRAFT 1913'. Nothing else on the label. It is a Maggini copy, double purfling and normal scroll: no extra turn. It's a nicely made violin. Presumably amateur although one would not suspect that but for the slightly dodgy purfling. Not yet played it but I have high hopes. I can't find a single reference to this maker. It's unlikely that this was the first violin he made but, given the date, I fear that it may have been his last. Can anyone help?
  9. Thanks, Blank face. Some photos here. Interestingly the scratched-on purfling has 'missed' in places, not seen this before. The violin is in remarkably good condition for its age: no marks to the varnish (except what looks like a splodge of black ink on the back). The fingerboard is the somewhat soft wood which was used, but no sign of grooves. What seems to be the original bridge. I'm wondering if the violin has been in a cupboard for a hundred years.
  10. Thanks, Martin. I can certainly photograph the violin tomorrow although I may struggle with the label.
  11. I have a violin with the label: Jerome. Luthier. Mirecourt. Vosges It looks to be an old label but I know that may mean nothing. However the violin is undoubtedly a Medio Fino type. (Or Compagnon or Med Fin, same thing.) It has all the features. But I've never seen this label before and cannot find it on the internet. Did JTL use this at some stage, maybe before he thought of the other names?
  12. Surely peg compound (or whatever you want to call it) is to increase friction between the peg shaft and peg hole? So should be used for sticking pegs (assuming that shaving the peg shaft is out of the question.) If a peg is slipping it is often because the string is being pushed out by the windings on another peg. It's the first thing I check. If the peg holes have been correctly positioned this shouldn't happen but, in the lower end violins I see, it is quite common. I use chalk dust for slipping pegs, once I have removed the build-up of peg paste which is often the cause of the slipping. (But I'm just an amateur.)
  13. I agree, P J Lester. The only way to know how it sounds is to set it up and play it. The best-sounding violin to have passed through my hands had horrific repaired cracks to the front (at least, most of the professional luthiers who contribute here would have called them horrific.) But it played beautifully.
  14. Thanks for all the replies. Live and learn. I'm pleased to say that the sound post crack repair won't cost me anything. Even if the violin is only Medio Fino quality, that makes it worth repairing. Too good for firewood.
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