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Dave Slight

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Everything posted by Dave Slight

  1. I hope you are not going by the label, for it is certainly not a violin by Bergonzi. Nor is it Italian, or from the 1700s.
  2. I find a shooting board very useful for many tasks, but jointing violin/viola/cello tops and backs, definitely isn’t one of them.
  3. I must send you my wood next time, for processing I have been using a wooden toothing plane, then a mitre plane to thickness them.
  4. I think three times the work is roughly right. Some jobs seem to go on for ever, like thicknessing the ribs. The size of everything in comparison to a violin, makes it tricky in a small workshop, without several benches or storage. You need a pretty big UV cabinet, such as a cheap wardrobe.
  5. If there has been wood added around the edges, plus some half edging, does this mean the violin has been double doubled?
  6. Hello Stuart, These were made in Eastern Europe, places like Czechoslovakia, Romania, Hungary. Date wise it could be anywhere from the 1960s to the 1980s. It is a student grade cello, and seems to have had very little use.
  7. Yes, it’s a cello.
  8. I do not know the method of assembly for the individual parts, and bamboo isn’t a material I’ve any experience with. Here is a closeup of the centre of the shaft.
  9. Some pictures, for those overseas, who have never seen one. I expect almost all of them are still in the U.K. The shafts are made from laminated cane, with the hardwood ends splined. In this example it could be kingwood, but he may have used other rosewoods at times. Silver mounted, and a recessed fitting for the frog. Sadly, on this bow, the thumb projection and surrounding area, have been mutilated by an idiot, at a later date.
  10. If you are buying tools, where the edge is in a poor condition, a Tormek isn’t the best choice to remove so much material first. The soft water stones will wear badly, and need to be trued afterwards. For the initial grinding of bevels, what Mark has suggested, or if you can’t run to the CBN wheels, a grinder with friable stones is what you need. After the bevels have been reground, you could then use a Tormek, but it seems a wild expense for a few old chisels and gouges.
  11. They play fine, and some were surprisingly good. If the condition is nice, I’d say it’s an excellent buy at £150
  12. There seem to be so many errors, this is a great idea. It’s not just The Strad, the British Violin book published by the BVMA had some significant errors in too.
  13. This is perhaps one of their most popular posters. A lot of people may have been caught out.
  14. Used to see quite a few of these, when in for re-hairs.
  15. Thanks chaps. Well spotted, it’s based on a Girolamo Amati II, circa 1690-1695. I am fortunate, in that my client was kind enough to loan me the original for a few days, so that I could take patterns and measurements from it.
  16. I would agree, and often can sound excellent too.
  17. Recently, I was approached by a hobby maker who is having problems with a violin they are making. It is clear to me, that something is quite wrong with the Strad posters they have been using as a reference. I think we all know, that at times, there were some fairly glaring errors with these, as they went to print. Unfortunately, what might be clear to experienced makers, is not so for amateurs. I wondered if people might list any errors they have come across, which could help others from wasting their wood.
  18. It is, and they are absolutely nasty. Good luck getting a chin rest to stay on.
  19. Your problem with scraping to a smooth arch, will be down to it being too rough and lumpy, before you start scraping. Think of the scraper more as a finishing tool. Stiffer scrapers can be better for removing high spots, but as with many things, technique matters more, and many makers are successful with flexible scrapers too. In my own work, I have the shapes finished with the thumb planes, before I start scraping. The scraper is only removing marks left by the planes. I am not familiar with grizzly planes, but I noticed your mention of the shed. Wood reacts to changing humidity levels, and it’s probable the humidity levels in the shed are less than ideal.
  20. You have really nailed it there! Absolutely wonderful work
  21. A common issue for beginners, results from not having prepared the wood correctly, before trying the plane the joint. If you are using a vice, any warp or twist on the individual halves will move as you close the vice. You then plane the jointing surface flat (hopefully), and when you release the vice, the wood moves again. This means the gluing surface is no longer flat, and the joint will never fit, despite repeating the process ad nauseum. Other issues can arise from not having the blade actually sharp, correct lateral setting, a plane of the appropriate size, and planing technique.
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