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Everything posted by robertdo

  1. Given the price I hope these irons are fine enough to bend ribs...
  2. When you buy them "ready" to use, the lining is usually in the form of a 3mm thick and about 5 cm wide piece of willow or spruce, so I would say the labeling is right for the linings. You reduce the thickness to about 2mm and cut 8-9mm large stripes that should be enough for a violin. But I agree that the spruce bar on the picture is much thicker or larger than what expected for a bass bar since you will eventually make a 5.5mm thick bar and about 2cm large and 27cm long to start fitting the bar. You can probably cut several out of it.
  3. I think the difference between a craftman and an artist is there!
  4. Nice video. I missed it. Good sound too.
  5. Here is the violin used by William Gregg, R. Burns (1759-1796) dance teacher.
  6. For those knowledgeable in Stradivarius violins, is there something in the craft (or else) on this copy that would immediately give away the fact that's it's only a copy (apart of course the label... )? Or is it so evident that there is no way to get confused even on pictures?
  7. You will need probably 5 ribs (maybe 1 more if it's your first violin since it's easy to break one rib when bending them). You should measure the thickness of the piece of wood corresponding to the ribs and make sure you can easily cut 5 ribs (about 2mm +1mm for the saw). But again you'd better be sure you will be able to cut really straight or you will lose the whole piece. If you know someone with a bandsaw you should not hesitate to ask.
  8. I really have respect for R. Hargrave and all the others for being able to cut a 2mm thick rib out of a maple piece of wood. I tried once with a brand new saw (the expensive one, very sharp etc...) but after few minutes I could see that I was not fully in line and that upon reaching the end of the wood the rib would be 1cm thick! So it's possible to do, especially if you feel you have woodworking skill, but I was relieved when I found someone who had a bandsaw. It took him few minutes to cut me several ribs with pretty good and regular thickness. the other easy solution is to buy ribs already cut that look like the maple you have. You can get some that are almost the good thickness.
  9. You can always look for companies/services doing this for you if the price is too high.
  10. But since the fingerboard will almost totally hide these marks why bother treating them in one way or another? Unless you suspect some structural problem underneath these marks. But in that case it will be difficult to do something about it.
  11. It looks like they are full size strings given the extra turns on the peg. I don't know if it's damaging but it probably doesn't help, especially for the A and D strings. Also I believe the diameter, and therefore the tension needed to reach the note on the open string, are different for 4/4 strings and for 1/8 strings. But I am not sure.
  12. I don't know how much it will cost you but it will certainly be much more than the price you paid to buy the violin 1/8 violins use smaller strings, made for them.
  13. Well I believe today you can easily do that with some film editing software.
  14. I don't believe the quality of the bow for a 1/8 instrument for an average 5 years old child can be so essential. I think it's always a good idea to watch some youtube videos (or go and whitness some suzuki concerts for example) to get a real idea of the bowing capacities of children at that age. You will always of course find the odd virtuoso playing a $5000 violin with a $1000 bow, but ... Buy a bow for a 1/8 violin and most likely it will give plenty of fun to your daughter.
  15. He doesn' t need work because he can do that
  16. It doesn't require UV because it's not a "real" oil varnish. It's an essential oil varnish, so it simply dries by evaporation. It lets more work time than a spirit varnish but not much more. I used it on 1 violin and the amber or red/brown color ones are pretty nice. It gives quite a nice depth illusion.
  17. For the label I would rather read something like S M Potterville bob 1791...?
  18. How many different violins do you want to make at the same time?
  19. I don' t think you would harm any of your daughter's music skill by waiting for her to be 4 or 5 and start with a good 1/8 violin. As Blankface said many Suzuki teachers use wooden dummies violins for really young kids. I have never seen a 1/64 violin but I made one 1/8 instrument and even if it takes less time to make it than a full size of course, it still takes time. So a "good" 1/64 (whatever it would mean for such a small instrument) would cost much too much money for its purpose.
  20. I agree wiht Omobono, there is nothing wrong in talking to its violin while you build it, but I would worry if the violin was to answer back...
  21. Indeed the 3D printer using wood is not there yet...
  22. I read once that something like 30% of people say "thank you" to the atm machine after withdrawing money. So maybe pleading with the plate to become a nice violin might help...
  23. I think the best thing to do is to go to a violin maker and ask him/her to present you with 3 or 4 violins ranging from $500 to $5000 (if he/she has some) without telling you which is which,and play a little bit. If you can really hear a difference in one of them, ask the seller for the price. You might be very surprised
  24. I would be surprised to learn that the fingerboard has to be black. Ebony was probably the wood of choice at that time since there was plenty of it and no ban. I guess we came to find it natural for the fingerboard to be black, but we might have to do with other woods and other colours in the future
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