lpr5184

Members
  • Content count

    4734
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About lpr5184

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

18545 profile views
  1. Top center joint gluing suction gap...

    Very useful info. Thanks Jim. How do you go about saving and filing ? Do you use Word?
  2. inlays

    I posted this on the Perry Sultana thread about a month ago. For some reason the video doesn't automatically start from the beginning.
  3. Top center joint gluing suction gap...

    Nick...There are many roads, not all lead to Rome. Jim...Please site that David B thread. That would be very useful.
  4. Top center joint gluing suction gap...

    OK, I see now what you mean...I surface the flat side of the wedge first and then join the outside edges that the clamps will touch at 90 degrees. I then plane the joint edges at 90 degrees off the flat surface. When the joint is good I'll clamp one half of the wedge down to the jig which is sitting on the pipe clamps so all that is needed is to apply glue and rub the joint. The excess will squeeze out into the drip channel. Lightly tighten the clamps and your done. To me it's simple and fast. Making this work requires flat surfacing and perfectly flat and squared edges...Thanks for explaining your method. I do think leaving a very slight gap in the middle like you explained is a very good idea.
  5. Top center joint gluing suction gap...

    Conor...Maybe I don't understand your question...if the joint is planed and fits perfectly when flat then how can it open on the inside? Never had an open seam yet but please let me know if there is a better way. I've done it both ways with success, that is leaving a tiny gap in the middle and no gap.
  6. Top center joint gluing suction gap...

    Thanks for the photo...Mine jig is similar
  7. Top center joint gluing suction gap...

    Can you post a photo of your jig? ...............I use a something similar/
  8. Perry Sultana...

    That's looks nice Evan and if it actually looked like that I would be happy but it doesn't so I've decided to use different materials... The shell is beautiful but I feel it has too much bling and is drawing attention away from the original... Harvey Leach was right when he said finding the right green material not going to be easy... t'll be fun doing this again now that I have a little better understanding. And if it doesn't turn out I'll do something different. I did want to give this a shot because it looked like fun but finishing these tiny pieces is hell on the fingers and hand.
  9. Perry Sultana...

    I'm not very happy with how this one turned out so I'll probably make another attempt as soon as my hands recover.
  10. Perry Sultana...

    Cutting the cavity with a Foredom handpiece and LMI's plunge router base
  11. Perry Sultana...

    To hide the center point misalignment I think putting a center eye might look OK.
  12. Perry Sultana...

    Finishing and fitting these tiny pieces together is tough stuff...the center points are off. If I do another one of these I'm sure I can do a better job. The shell is Gold MOP and Green Lip Abalone.
  13. Perry Sultana...

    Decided to go ahead and varnish and In between that I've started on the inlay. Pegs from Hansell are here ... so I think I'm beginning to see light at the end of the tunnel. If all goes as planned the Sultana will be completed in May. This has certainly been a fun project.
  14. Perry Sultana...

    I struggle with that too. I try to varnish first thing in the morning after dust in shop has settled overnight. Enter the shop and have things ready to go so you don't stir up the dust.
  15. Instrument varnished with my product

    Nunzio, Thank you for making a beautiful and fine Amber varnish!