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  1. lpr5184

    different gram strength hide glue for center joint?

    Hi Jackson, You can find the photos in the Perry Sultana thread. The jig is simple to make but for it to work properly the two wedges have to be perfectly flat and the joint at 90 degrees from the bottom of the plate. Use a square to check The outer edges also need to be 90 degrees so the clamps push in a direct line. I use standard pipe clamps to push the wedges together and wooden cam clamps to keep the wedges flat. If your joint is properly planed and square and your plates are flat you will have a nice tight joint. This method works fast and flawless for me every time. but everyone has their own method. I'm curious what is yours?
  2. lpr5184

    The Wood Well and Merle Franz...

    I think you're right because it is not the traditional maple that was used. So if you're competing then you will probably want to stick to using the traditional wood....I think because the grain lines tend to be dark and show up more in bigleaf than European maple some don't care for that look and judges will quickly notice that element. However if you are not competing the Wood Well has beautiful flamed maple. My next trip over I'll probably pick up a few billets and resaw them into one piece backs. I also learned this time that there is an even rarer quilted maple that they sometimes get. They call it "chocolate" quilt because it is darker than the regular "vanilla "quilt. They said that there is one person who buys it all whenever the get a log of it in. I was lucky enough to buy a neck block of it that I'll resaw into ribstock. I'll ask them to sell me a billet of it if they happen to find some laying around. So I'm milling up the quilted maple now and have found a local architectural timber company who own an expensive horizontal band saw with a carbide blade. It can slice through the billets like butter at any thickness including veneers. Pretty amazing piece of equipment. I probably will have a couple of sets of quilted maple to list on the Luthier Exchange. As soon as I'm done milling them to a useable size. I'll cut them large enough for viola.
  3. I have two one piece European backs for sale. I just measured the density... one is .45 and the other is .46 They both have pretty even grain spacing all the way across. The grain is not perfectly vertical but since there is no glue joint I don't think that will have much affect. Measurement of top 1 is...509mm long x 230mm tall. The thick edge is 39mm and the narrow edge is 13mm. Measurements of top 2 is...518mm long x 242mm tall. The thick edge is 39mm and the narrow edge is 12mm. They have been air dried and are 10 years old. I'm asking $100.00 USD each with free shipping. PM if interested....
  4. lpr5184

    The Wood Well and Merle Franz...

    Here is some of the wood I bought from them yesterday. They still have another thick billet that they are resawing and redrying for me. They will ship it over when it's done. I was looking for small figured quilt to use on a few 5 string fiddles. A lot of the 5A billets are geared more towards guitar makers and have large tube and bubble figure. Great for wide body guitars but not what I was looking for. They have a lot of wood so you are bound to find what you're looking for ...and even what you're not looking for...like these 5 euro spruce one piece tops. These were sitting way up high on a shelf almost out of sight. They pulled them down and after brushing away the mouse turds I bought these as well as well as a couple of nice engleman and sitka two piece tops. As always I bought more wood than I was after and once I go through it all and check the densities I'll most likely sell some if anyone is interested. One piece tops and backs are oversized enough to build the biggest violas. RIP Merrill
  5. Taking the Washington state ferry over to buy some wood from Whale Bay Woods also known as The Wood Well has always taken an entire day. I quit using western bigleaf maple several years ago but now I've decided to buy some quilted maple to make a few 5 string fiddles. It has always been a treat to spend an entire day over on the Olympic peninsula at the Wood Well. The wood buying today was spectacular as always but...I was sadden to hear that Merrill Franz (owner) had died a few days before Christmas. Merrill was a violin maker and I know some here knew him. I remember meeting him the first time I went to The Wood Well. He invited me up to his house and we spent a couple of hours together talking and playing his fiddles. I told him I was new to violin making and after talking about varnish making he gave me in a gallon glass jar the nicest thickened turpentine to make some Fulton Varnish along with some linseed oil. I'll never forget his generous spirit and enthusiasm about violin making when I was just starting to get interested in building. The family business is still there in Quilcene and still selling wood. If this has already been mentioned on MN I'm sorry for bringing it up again. Just wanted to inform those who knew Merrill and didn't know of his passing.
  6. lpr5184

    different gram strength hide glue for center joint?

    Yes but the chart recommends 2-3/4 :1 for maple and 2-1/2 :1 for spruce. Just curious of how you determined to use a 3 :1 ratio. Thanks for the photos.
  7. lpr5184

    different gram strength hide glue for center joint?

    How did you determine the 3:1 ratio. Can you show your clamping jig?
  8. lpr5184

    different gram strength hide glue for center joint?

    When I bought glue from Eugene he sent the 40 Centuries and Still Holding.pdf which has a chart. I have been gluing my center joints with a 2-3/4 - 1 ratio (Weight, Water to Glue.) I have not had any failures. Do you think this is not a good ratio for center joins? I also use 315 for everything except gluing the top plate to the ribs and the fingerboard to neck. I'll then use grade 192 and dilute it to a ratio that I have found to be good for easy removal.
  9. lpr5184

    different gram strength hide glue for center joint?

    By full strength I mean mixing to the typical water to glue ratios mentioned in the chart for grade 315.
  10. lpr5184

    Craig Tucker Memorial Instrument

    How's Craig's fiddle coming along?
  11. lpr5184

    Nick Allen's Bench.

    Good clean tidy work.
  12. lpr5184

    William Fry Internal Scraping Method

    Agree with your post here edi..... because during a recent visit with Evan we managed to improve an old trade fiddle of mine that I could not play for more than a minute. He scraped away a little on the neck and bridge while explaining his method. It was very convincing to my ears and the fiddle now is much better sounding. He also brought along two of his unvarnished fiddles and was able to scrape the outside of the plates in different places while explaining what to listen for. His method seems to follow what a few makers here have posted over the years of tuning the outside of the plates after the box is closed. I think I first heard of this method from Oded Kishony's old posts.
  13. lpr5184

    different gram strength hide glue for center joint?

    For center joints I use grade 315 and mix it full strength. I use clamps and a jig which takes about 30 seconds to join the two halves together. Lots of useful info here... 40 Centuries and Still Holding.pdf
  14. lpr5184

    Bridge position: What's most important?