Greg F.

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Everything posted by Greg F.

  1. I'll happily trade a set of such strings for a similar condition stringless violin with its authentic Richard label still inside.
  2. A couple more pics of bow 2. I can find nothing stamped on this bow such as letters or numbers. Comparing it with the Japan marked bow that is handy, the color of bow #2 is somewhat darker. As I recall, imported items (to the US) required a stamp or such for the country or region of origin beginning in the later part of the 19th century. Did this rule apply to bows or were they exempt if sold as part of a "kit" or ??? When did Japan begin to make bows in quantity? Would a 19th or early 20th century French or German factory have used Japan as a source for bows?
  3. Here's a better pic of the adjuster. The black bit is wood and has grain lines. The end has something like mother-of-pearl. Re Japanese bows, I have a broken one handy that is somewhat similar in color to this bow (second one) but it sure doesn't look as nice. But I would defer to the opinion of those who know. This is all rather educational for me...thanks!
  4. What/where is the plastic adjuster?
  5. This bow came with a violin that my neighbor gave to me (the instrument being in pieces). It is marked Germany and what struck my newbie eyes was how wide the frog is. The squarish back edge of such seems typical for violin bows but isn't the wider frog something viola bows have? Or were some student violin bows made like this for ease of playing? Length is about 74.5 cm and weight 58.6 grams.
  6. For comparison, here's my son's violin. It has the same label and was found (in unplayable, old and dusty condition) in a wooden coffin case that had a French name (Delanoy? or something similar) on the hardware. The luthier who set it up and did some minor repairs noted that the finger board angle was low and that the neck should be reset, but I decided against this repair (I kinda like old things retaining some of their "individuality" but maybe that makes me odd...or maybe I'm just cheap). It has similarities to mine but there are differences. The one piece back has "sagged" a bit in one area. He played it in his high school orchestra (50 or so players) and was concert master for one year. Maybe the violin helped? Yes, just another factory violin. The lining, etc., is very well done.
  7. Martin, FWIW, here are some extra pics. The flash really gives it a rather harsh look. BTW, I realize few people here find the subject of factory violins particularly interesting so I thank you all again for your kind replies. Greg
  8. Thank you all for the discussion. Martin, I will try to post pics of the scroll, etc., later. As for the internals, what I can see is that it is lined and has corner blocks (though whether they are real ones or not is unknown). The lining looks rather well done (not too thick and somewhat tapered at the top (don't know what the technical term is)) as compared with the thick unfinished lining on a couple of VSOs that were handy.
  9. Should it be thinned only on the front side?
  10. I does look a bit wide at the top. Should I have it thinned a bit?
  11. Oops! I think I measured the balance points on these incorrectly (from the very end of the button instead of from the bottom of the button). So bow 1 would be about 9 1/8" and bow 2 about 9 6/8".
  12. If you all don't mind my picking your collective brains some more, here's the info on my second bow (which is sometimes my first, depends on how things are going). It has silver mounts on the frog, the silver wrapping is as it was found but there is some copper wire (full disclosure-I added this myself and to be clear it is fully reversible (removable) if need be) where the bow had some leather that was largely worn away (I also added a new leather near the frog), 74.5 cm, 61.5 g, balance point at approx. 10 3/8" (which from what I've read is a bit too far(?)), round, no name or marking that I can find. I'm pretty sure that this one came with one of my older ebay violins (personally I enjoy ebay, but I understand that many don't). Brazilwood again? Acceptable for use? Thanks, Greg
  13. Thanks for the reply. What weight would be (all things considered) best? I know there is a debate about bow weights going on elsewhere, but is there a generally accepted upper limit?
  14. These might be better. The color using a flash is too red.
  15. Sorry, I'll try to take some better ones later today.
  16. Hi, I'm a total newbie, but FWIW here's the fiddle that I'm learning on. I've been told it's Mirecourt style. The label (Francois Richard Paris) is probably a fictitious name created by the importer/wholesaler/retailer (but who knows for sure?). Henley mentions the name as being 1850-1870 and some online searching turned up a violin labeled such along with the original bill of sale from 1850 or so. Anyway, here's some pics. Is late 19th century French factory correct? Thanks in advance, Greg
  17. Hi, I'm a total newbie having started taking fiddle lessons about 1 1/2 yrs ago (at an "advanced" age) and have enjoyed reading about the instrument online and elsewhere. I've found the discussions regarding bows perplexing and since I have a bow that I like (remember, a total newbie here) I wonder what the knowledgeable readers think of it. Is it a beneath contempt bow or at least a mid-ling one. It came with one of my ebay factory violin purchases but can't remember which one. Some of my factory violins are late 19th century, so this bow might possibly date from such time. It weighs 64.2 g, is 73 cm long, balance point is at 9 5/8 inches, no name, octagonal, old silver wire wrap, "German Silver" mount, very dark. Brazilwood? Snakewood? Other? Thanks in advance for any thoughts/comments. Greg
  18. I have a violin with no label (there was one but it's gone) with George W Quick imprinted on the base bar. Whether this is a genuine Quick violin or one that he repaired is beyond me.
  19. Hi, I know very little about old violins and became interested in buying one recently only because my son needed to move up from 3/4 to full size. Being very familiar with ebay for another area of interest, I wasn't afraid to give this venue a try and was familiar with many of the potential pitfalls. It also occured to me that, after having checked some of the violins at the local luthiers and music dealers where modern Chinese instruments run the gamut from a few hundred up to several thousand, that I could take a number of chances with ebay violins before my outlay in both purchase price and repairs came anywhere close to the full retail shop prices. So FWIW, my "best" purchase was a French violin c. 1870 labeled Francois Richard Paris. Although Henley suggests he was a maker, it seems more likely to be a factory violin, perhaps a "private label". I realize that labels can sometimes be meaningless, but I found pictures of two virtually identical old violins online with the same label. (I can only imagine how challenging it was in the pre-internet days to find pictures of common violins for comparison.) A local luthier with many many years in the business helped with the id. The violin was problem free (no cracks, just some minor open seams) and needed only strings, a bridge and a better tailpiece (and of course the minor seam repair). When professionally setup it sounded "dark" and powerful and my son enjoys it daily as his school orchestra instrument. The local luthier was impressed and, though a bit coy, hinted that it might bring 2k or more in the shop, which was about 4 times what I had in it. Of course, I've also bought some dogs on ebay, but even these have been fun and educational for me. And the prices were so low ($60-$150) that there was very little financial pain. Some even came with decent bows just needing to be rehaired as a free bonus. Since they're such "ordinary" violins I've even tried doing a few minor repairs: cutting a couple bridges (lots of info online about ways to go about this), setting up sound posts (using the old string method), gluing loose seams (with hide glue), fixing pegs, etc. Also, as part of my education I've gotten a bunch of large violin books via interlibrary loan to peruse. All-in-all I find violins rather intersting. Greg
  20. Greg F.

    George Quick

    Quick and dirty scan of the scroll
  21. Greg F.

    George Quick

    Thanks for the replies. As for the bass bar, it is stamped on both sides in three lines (the lowest or third line is only partial): "George W. Quick, Violin Maker, Repairer and Dealer In". I know very little about violins, but to my very untrained eyes the scroll looks hand made. I will try to post a picture of it if anyone is interested.
  22. Greg F.

    George Quick

    Hi, Can anyone provide info on violins by George Quick? I've read what little Henley has to say, but wonder if anyone can provide more. The violin I have has his name on the bass bar, but no label (a labeled was removed at some time in the past). Since he did repairs is it possible that the marked bass bar is simply a repair of his and not indicative of one of his violins? Thanks in advance, Greg