sinebar1

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About sinebar1

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  1. Well thanks for all the repies so far. They have been interesting and informative. I love simplicity so I'm always looking for an easier way so long as it doesn't make things worse.
  2. Well you could make the sound post bosses large enough so that the post could be shifted to different positions on the bosses. As for variations in tightness well yes I guess you would have to have several sound posts of differnt lengths. I don't know what this would do for sound though. I'm just thowing this idea out there to get some pros and cons on it. It might be worth trying. But please don't flame me. This is just a thought.
  3. I don't know maybe this has been tried before but I was thinking why not make a flat sound post boss on the inside of the top and back during the carving process so that one could have a sound post with square ends instead of angled ends. It would be easier to fit a sound post with square ends to flat surfaces than one with angled ends to angled surfaces. In fact you get the sound post length just right before glueing the top on. Any thoughts on this radical idea?
  4. Thanks for making this a lot clearing for me. I thought there was a specific number. Anyway I set mine to the profile of the fingerboard but left the "A" and "D" a little high and it seemed to work out pretty well. BTW does the bridge height effect the tone quality? My bridge was a little high making the "G" string 7mm high off the finger board and the "E" string about 5.5mm. When I adjusted the bridge to bring the "E" string to 3.75mm and "G" string to 4.75mm it seemed to improve the "G" string tone.
  5. Can someone tell me what the correct distance should be between the bow hair and strings while bowing a single string? Like when you are bowing the "D" string how far off the "G" and "A" should the bow hair be and likewise when bowing the "A" string. I hope that make sense.
  6. That's true and I know because I'm a machinist and CNC programmer. We routinly deal mainly with decimal fractions.
  7. Well I'm going to stick to my little hole method until someone can prove that it has a noticable effect of some kind. So far I have only heard opinions but no proof one way are the other.
  8. What a sad but interesting story.
  9. I looked through the end pin hole and by trial and error basically I got the length and angles right at the correct possition. This method I used made it a lot easier. I'm just not sure about what effect the 1/16" hole will have on sound. If I had to bet though I would bet it has no ill effects.
  10. Actually I haven't even put strings on it yet. So yes no string tension.
  11. Ok now who was that inventive Luthier who was burned at the steak?
  12. Now that's a good suggestion. I will probably do that but first I will have them play the fiddle and see if it is even worth the effort.
  13. I tried using the "S" shaped thing and it works well for adjusting the post once in place but the post kept fall off the stabbing end no matter how sharp I made it. I tried the sissor thing but it was actually worse than the "S" tool. I tried tying string too but that was hopeless. The method I decribed in the originating post worked better than anything.
  14. I was trying to think of a better way to set my sound post because all the other time honered methods were not working for me. Probably because it takes a lot of experience of which I don't have. So I got the idea of drilling a small .0625" hole in the sound post and then inserting a .0625" dia. flexible copper tube that could be bent easily. On to this I also soldered a short piece of .0625" dia. tube at 90 degrees so that I could keep the sound post from rotating on the tube. Anyway it worked extreamly well. I was able to get the sound post cut to the right length and wedged into place with little trouble. But I do have a small hole left in the sound post. I assume this won't hurt anything but then I could be wrong. Any expert thoughts on this?
  15. Just in case someone is interested Minwax emailed me with information about the wood finish brand of wood stain they sell. Here's what they said. Thank you for taking the time to contact Minwax. The resin in our Wood Finish is a modified linseed oil/hydrocarbon base. The solvent in this product is mineral spirits.