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stringcheese

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  1. The bridge in the photo is leaning slightly toward the fingerboard. I use my eyeball. though sometime I will place a small ruler along the back face of the bridge.
  2. The Angel Taylor violins are from Century strings and are quite good if properly set up. We do all the set up work in house and good set up is critically important with student violins.
  3. A guitar fretboard is equal tempered, not the same as just intonated. Someone I knew did a study of players in string only enables and those that play in orchestras with equal tempered instruments. They play differently.
  4. I'd guess German, mid to late 19th century. Some of these had grafts the day they were made.
  5. A friend of mine who has been involved with the internet from its early days once described it as " high noise to signal ratio." 90% of what's out there either doesn't apply to your situation or it's flat out wrong. There's 10% good information out there but you have to sort it out.
  6. I would not recommend water. It can encourage the bridge to warp. As GoPractice said, careful use of a scraper.
  7. What we tell a lot of people is that more money will not automatically buy you something you like better. it will only buy you more things to choose from. And good set up is critical. It can make a world of difference.
  8. For basic student bows I much prefer carbon fiber, because cheap wood bows are made from the wood they should be burning to heat the factory. Better bows, wood wins hands down. Better tone and response.
  9. You are correct in assuming that the top and back are the main tone producers. The ribs may have some effect, but much less. Good set up has a huge effect though. (Post, bridge, etc.) Agin, may I ask where on the Canadian Prairies? Got some friends from up there.
  10. To play correctly, even a guitar fingerboard requires a little curve. This is called neck relief. Picture the outline of the space through which a string vibrates. It has a slight curve. If there is no relief the string thinks there is a hump in the middle of the fingerboard and will not play cleanly unless the action is too high.
  11. Fleabay is the last place I'd get one. You are likely to buy somebody else's problems. If there is a knowledgeable violin dealer in your area start there. You may spend a little more, but you will get something your daughter can actually learn on. The advice above is actually pretty good.
  12. The critical item is good set up. We sell a basic student violin with a case and bow for about $550. But all the set up work is done here. That's about $300 worth of parts and labor. So good set up is the biggest part of what you are buying. You want to be sure about the set up because that's what makes a basic instrument work like a violin.
  13. My guess would be E. Wernar or maybe Werner.
  14. Something that we tell people is to do most of the thing with the pegs. Those metal things on the tailpiece are FINE tuners. There is a tendency for students with cheap steel core strings to do all the tuning at the tailpiece and to ignore the pegs. Some teachers are guilty of this as well. Pegs that are used regularly will work better and last longer than ones that are ignored.
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