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  1. What we tell people is that a label will not authenticate a violin, but a violin MAY authenticate a label.
  2. What you appear to have is a generic nickel mounted German trade bow, probably from the 1920s or 1930s. These can be anything from stuff I wouldn't use for a plant stake to some pretty decent student bows. If the stick is straight and the camber good, it may well be worth rehairing. Couldn't say without looking at it up close. As for replacement bows at the low end, we prefer synthetic bows. The low end wood bows are often made of stuff I wouldn't burn in the wood stove. A decent fiberglass student bow will often work better and cost less. Certainly, once you move up in the bow world, wood is where it's at. In the meantime, I would not recommend buying something cheap online. Go to a decent dealer where you can see what you are getting before you spend the money.
  3. I think I would trust David on this. We have sold stuff from the JTL shop from around $700 to $4000. They made many grades of instruments. Even the more basic models can be useful student violins if they are in good condition and properly set up.
  4. They were there too, but they were missing other parts.
  5. Was once at a gathering with three friends, two instrument makers and a cabinet maker. I was the only one there with ten fingers.
  6. Yep, fake graft. Thanks Shelbow.
  7. Generic German trade fiddle. late 19th or early 20th century. The pegbox graft may have been done the day it was made.
  8. They were a big family. Had one by Johann III from 1935. Didn't look at all like this one, but that's not surprising given that it's a different maker and time. Violin is long gone but here's a little information that I noted at the time. Johann Furst III, b. 11/6/1896, son of Thomas F. worked with Gustav Groseck for 4 years, established own shop 1922. The person who taught me worked with one of his descendants.
  9. Totally agree with the above. Just had this exact discussion with a guy making a carved mandolin. Basically told him just do it again and the second one will be better. And the third, and the fourth.......
  10. Too bad it's all wrong and doesn't even fit the violin correctly.
  11. Once worked on a guitar that had lived in a barn. Had mud dauber nests in it with live larvae.
  12. The reamers that I have found work best (for me) are those with four cutting edges on one side and the other side blank. I used one for a long time that had cutting edges all the way around, and it would often make the hole polygonal. I have not used the spiral reamers. I am sure others will have more thoughts on this. Care of use is also important with sufficient pressure to keep the reamer aligned but not so much to ear things.t
  13. No, those are waaay better. Honestly it looks like a low end trade violin that wasn't worth much before it was butchered.
  14. Maybe try Chris Germain. Christopher Germain Violins in Philadelphia.
  15. The outer wrap on the G string is often silver, while the wrap on the D may be aluminum or another lighter metal or alloy. Hence the D will need to be of larger diameter to produce the desired tension.
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