baroquecello

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About baroquecello

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  1. There is a very plausible explanation for the notch that has to do with the making process, but I have forgotten what it is. I think it may have been @Roger Hargrave that explained it, so I'm hoping he will chime in.
  2. Not that hard. Here is his website: ciurbaviolins.com I'd think there is a contact form on there somewhere.
  3. https://www.bromptons.co/reference/results/details/viola-by-ioan-luca-reghin-1980.html Vasile Mare and Claudiu Ciurba, good contemporary romanian makers from Reghin, both seem to have worked under him for a while. His name turns up on websites from other makers from romania. I'm quite sure he existed. You could contact Claudiu Ciurba, who knows english, and ask him if he has any information for you.
  4. About half a year ago I got to play an original Testore cello. String length a whopping 74 cm. When attempting to hit 4th position I was actually in the third. It sounded terrific, and the cellist who plays it regularly, Johannes Krebs, former solo cellist of the Bremer Philharmoniker, currently professor for cello at the Graz conservatory, managed fine. He a big, powerful guy, and I do not know how I, a small not so powerful guy, would manage to play that on the long run, but it was easy to play, sound wise. I still think there is a market for your Fichtl as it is.
  5. Woodworm Needs a certain % of reative moisture in the Wood. Old Wood, kept inside the house in a dry place, is to dry for woodworm to thrive in. Unless the violin was recently stored in a Damp cellar or something of the sort, it is very unlikely that there are active woodwoms present in the violin. Mosst likely the woodworm Damage is from Long ago, when the violin and the Wood were still relatively Fresh. The holes seem to have darkened quite a bit, so I would suspect them to be old, and I wouldn't worry About it.
  6. I was in your Position a while ago, and never made it much further. There are a couple of Problems I encountered that I couldn't at this Point overcome. The biggest one being time: you Need to do this a lot almost on a daily Basis to become good at it, like playing an Instrument. There is an awful lot to learn. Otherwise, I think one learns best with the help of a teacher. And seeing someone do it in person is better than a thousand words. You REALLY Need to learn to maintain and sharpen Tools, before you do anything else. And then you Need quite some Money to spend on Tools, Wood, books and tutoring. A friend of mine managed to make 3 Cellos, working on his fourth now, because he has a friend who is a maker, and his friend allowed him to make use of his workspace and Tools. This is the only Amateur maker I know personally that got to a good Level. I have my hopes up for my retirement (still About 30 years away).
  7. If you have to use Prim for Cello, take the thicker gauge, I think ist called "Orchestra", it will Sound better. They will last quite Long, but the a string doesn't Sound very good. Crown strings would be preferable, much better Sound, but will cost a bit (although not much) more. Thomastic have a new string set called Alphayue which is incredibly cheap. The violin set sounds good, haven't tried the Cello set. But I've heard they are not very durable.
  8. Like! Please give us updates!
  9. Could the neck have been frankensteined from another fiddle? The button does not look like it came from that back, doesn't fit the break and looks like it has a different varnish.
  10. Variations for cello quartet on the german Christmas song "Maria durch ein Dornwald ging".
  11. @Fossil Ledges what is "the baroque Cello revisited"?
  12. Just a cello player's ideas, but I am a tinkerer! My experience is that sometimes, some things that didn't seem to have any effect at all will start having being effective once you've changed something else, and sometimes getting rid of a problem can be done by a combination of many very little things. For instance, now that you have some success with the tightened post, the weight added to the fingerboard may help. Some things that still spring to mind is to mess around with the tailpiece : closer to the bridge can have an effect, or an extra fine tuner can, os simply a bigger one, or a stiffer tail cord. In extreme cases, cellists wedge a cork under the fingerboard (not too tightly!). What can also help a lot is the krentz frequency modulator (bit expensive), or you can try some rare earth magnets of different weights on different locations on the plate. Ah yes, and on violins, the chin rest can also make a difference!
  13. Everyone here sems to Focus on the aspect of leaving gaps in the glueing Surface. If I understand well, @christian bayon isn't that sure About wether that helps all that much, and believes that it is much more the triangular shape (seen from the side) and added extra mass to the bass bar that seems to have a positive effect. Am I interpreting this correctly, Christian? Ave you tried this triangular bar shape without gaps?
  14. Oh that makes me want to practise this Capriccio! Great sounding Cello, ofcourse it is also the Cellist, but indeed, the low strings seem to speak exceptionally well. @christian bayon so you believe this is due to the bass bar shape too? Very intersting!
  15. The 80ies Höfner Cello my Music School has is a genuinly terrible Instrument. The Sound isn't that ugly, but it is built lika tank (very thick plates, very heavy) and Sounds muted. A characteristic of such Instruments is that it feels to an advanced Player as if you don't really manage to grab the string with the bow. As weight doesn't give a different Kind of Sound, it is very bad to learn to Play the Cello on such an Instrument.