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About baroquecello

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  1. baroquecello

    An experimental pegbox and nut

    I agree!
  2. baroquecello

    Old Cello ID?

    Good that you posted it here now. I'd say the neck construction is later Addition by an Amateur repairman. From the Pictures, apart from the weird neck block replacement, the Instrument Looks to be in good condition, just a few unimportant cracks in the top. I don't think People would have left it for the dust bin. I'm curious what People will suggest as origin of the Cello. BTW I just love such geared pegs! The screws somehow don't look like they belong to them...
  3. baroquecello

    Button in back neck heel.

    If you bought it directly from Yita, shoot them a mail with the photo attached, say you find this a problem and ask how they intend to solve it. They will respond reasonably in my experience.
  4. baroquecello

    String setup for Francois Chanot cornerless violin

    Tom, regarding strings it depends what you wish for, ofcourse. All of The makers I mentioned have a good Reputation for HIPP gut strings. I am a Cellist and don't know what is most preferred by violinists. My Partner, a professional Violinist, says she uses a Kürschner Luxline for the d string, and otherwise at the Moment uses Aquila. She sais the Aquila bare gut is generally accepted as nice to Play, but the wound strings are somewhat Special and not appreciated by all. The wound g string in that setup will ofcourse not be a flat wire, but round wire wound string, which not everybody will like. I don't know if a Company like Pirastro, which makes flat wound strings, makes strings to your personal order, but you could try, if you wish for your violin to be more playable for "modern" violinists and not only for HIPP-Players.
  5. baroquecello

    String setup for Francois Chanot cornerless violin

    Many gut string makers ca make you a string to your specifications. Well made gut strings have a good shelf life (as opposeed to their Reputation!), you could order a few. I just looked, and Toro specificaly states on their site they take Special orders, I would expect the same from Aquila, Dlugolecki and know Kathedrale strings does so. In my experience, it is not so much more expensive than Standard size strings, but you may Need to wait a bit. Edit note, I 've a few Questions: I can't see very well, but it appears the button is seperately glued onto the neck root (ebony?), and not part of the back plate, am I correct? Is the neck construction of the Standard mortice-in-top block-type or is it in one piece?
  6. baroquecello

    Scewed neck - End pin and fingerboard

    @jacobsaunders but a wedge would increase the projection too. To me it looks like projection might be fine (pic 2) as it is, correct for this low overstand, and in that case a wedge would not be advisable, would it? Maybe a shim or even a slightly "inverse" wedge?
  7. baroquecello

    New Cello strings

    Ok, so I see some reactions here which contain incorrect Information, and some opinions here I emphatically disagree with. I will therefore now attempt write a General guide for understanding how the different types of modern Cello strings work, attempting to clearly differentiate between what is a fact, and what is my personal opinion. The most important Thing to know is that Cello strings come in four different Kinds, the key difference being the core material: 1. gut core strings 2. synthetic core strings and cores that are neither steel nor gut 3. solid steel core strings. 4. rope steel core strings Why such a Variety? well, before the 20th century, strings were made of gut, low strings wound with a silver or Copper wire. With improvement of the Quality of steel, the reduction of the Price of steel, the increase of the Price of labour, the financial crises in the 20ies and thirties, it became attractive to produce steel strings for their longivity mainly at first. Such very Basic strings, a single core wih a single wire wound around it, were quite crude and not attractive to professional musicians other than those travelling to the tropics. The introduction of better windings (flat wire), the introduction of dampening materials between the core and the winding, and the introduction of the wire core (in the 50ies, Spirocore) greatly improved the tonal qualities of steel strings, so that by the 60ies, they could almost compete with gut strings Sound Quality wise, and had big Advantages what stability is concerned and some what projection of Sound is concerned. Then the shift towards steel core went very fast. In an attempt to combine some of the qualities of gut strings and steel strings, strings with synthetic cores were introduced, I believe Dominants were the first ones around. With a few exceptions, most notably historically informed Players, what one sees and hears nowadays are Cellos strung with solid steel core upper strings, and wire core lower strings. Apart from the strings developed by Warchal (synthetic core, save the a string), Velvet (silk core), and Pirastro obligato (synthetic core, but only for the lower two strings!)All sets of professional quality that have come onto the market roughly the last 20 years are exactly this combination. Before that, the sets were made with a similar core for all strings. Spirocore strings were all wire core strings, also for a and d. Jargar strings, early Larsen strings were all solid core strings. So when you wish to select a new set of steel strings for your Cello, you should Keep this in mind: the top two should be single core strings, the lower two wire core, that is what generally works best. On some exceptional Cellos one may want a single core g string, or inversely a wire core d string, but that is extremely rare. The reason why you see the combination of Larsen a and d (often solo) and Spirocore g and c (often Tungsten wound), is because These two Brands were the best in the 90ies, and arrived at something that seems to work quite universally quite early. The Budget Version of this was top two Jargar and lower two Helicore. All newer sets by the various string makers are variations on this concept. As I mentioned, the newer sets on the market are already a combination of wire core strings and solid core strings. The Variation is in the exact material of the core or winding, the exact diametre of the core or thickness of the winding, the properties of the dampening material (usually fibres in combination with a resin) and the Tension. A lutier in this thread gave the impression that steel strings produce a bad Sound, and that Larsen strings are not steel strings. The latter is wrong, and the former I, a fervent gut string Player, do not agree with. Regular Larsen and Jargar a and d strings are really quite similar. What you will prefer is very personal, and it may depend on your Cello; if you had a different Cello, you may prefer the other. The ideal string combination for you and for your Cello can only be arrived at through endless experimentation. It is not possible to foresee how a particular string will Sound on a particular Cello. There are tendencies, ofcourse. The sad Thing is, as you Progress, you will start liking other Things and your previously preferred strings will no longer be your preferred strings. Welcome to the world of Equipment Freaks! Just a short note on synthetic core strings. I have yet to encounter synthetic strings that truly come close to the Sound of gut strings. Usually, they Sound dull, not warm, in comparison, and some have serious drawbacks what playability is concerned. I have played a few Cellos on which obligatos sounded quite nice and worked well, but the top two strings have a steel core. I have yet to see any professional Cellist use Warchal strings. Velvet strings Combine some qualities of gut with better playabilty, but they are a lot thicker than steel. Dominant is interesting in some way, but much to low Tension, not loud enough and also loses its Sound too quickly. I do not currently believe that synthetic core strings are the definitive answer for Cellos. to come back to the OPs Question, as the OP has not experimented with his Cello at all, seems a relative beginner on a Budget, I stand firm on my advise to start with Helicore and take it from there for the future. The upper strings are a too punchy for most high Quality Cellos, but on lower Quality Cellos, that is usually what they Need. If it is too punchy, try a Jargar or Larsen a string. The lower two helicore strings are quite mellow in comparison to for instance spirocore, but as most cheap Cellos Need improvement on the top two strings, that would likely fit well. And I've played one particular Cello on which a whole set sounded phenomenal. Personally, I use Jargar Special forte a string, Jargar Special d string, and Tungsten wound Spirocores on the bottom, but this is expensive. And I arrived at this set after a lot of experimenting. Spirocores are not so nice for Amateurs to have to Play in, and can really take 6 months or so if you don't Show them all the Corners of the room in your playing, and during this time can Sound quite awful. If you have a lot of Money, go ahead and try the newer strings: Perpetual, Magnacore, Eva Gold, the list goes on. But it is expensive and can be just as bad as anything, depending on the Cello, especially if you don't know what you are Looking for.
  8. baroquecello

    New Cello strings

    Edit note: any of the strings mentioned in this thread will be a step up from piranito, which I never recommend. The c andvg piranito are of the oldvfashioned single core type. Like Jargar, but inferior in quality. I would highly recommend replacing them.
  9. baroquecello

    New Cello strings

    There are incredibly many different strings on the market. Jargar strings are good strings, but somewhat old fashioned. Nobody uses the g and c strings any longer. Standard nowadays are c and G strings with a wire core, like spirocore, magnacore, helicore, belcanto, eva pirazzi etc etc. Ifvyou plan using jargar a and d strings, which potentially is a good choice, combine them with a c and g of any of the before mentioned brands. As a cello teacher, for relatively simple cellos, especially if the cello hasn't been xperimented with, i usually recommend a set of helicore or kaplan as a cheap and good start. If you like to mellow down the top strings, you can then try jargar regular, for more power jargar superior or special, or Larsen soloist, for instance. For more focus and more power on c and g you can try spirocore, more focus but smoother is belcanto. As a whole set, Eva Pirazzi is very nicely balanced with a mellow sound. Eva gold is more brilliant and the c string can sometimes be too flabby. I can go on for hours talking about more strings. But for your apparent level, I think these are good starting points . Good luck!
  10. baroquecello

    Violin ID please

    Clean the inside with lentils or rice, get a proper led light and then it shouldn't be hard to see corner blocks. Taking the top off only for that should not be necessary...
  11. baroquecello

    No f holes??

    I would rather suspect a meaning behind this. Something allegoric, for instance along the lines of that the Player doesn't have a voice in Society, or something like that, like a mute violin.
  12. baroquecello

    Violin Identification "M.F.S."

    I really like the "flow" of the scroll and particularly the pegbox en profile! Very elegant, i think.
  13. baroquecello

    When do you convert 1:20 pegbox taper to 1:30 ?

    We had a topic a couple of months ago discussing what joint mainly holds the neck in place, and it seemed to be consensus that the button joint takes the main load, not the top block joint. The ribs don't have much to do with holding the neck in place at all.
  14. baroquecello

    Warchal 'Timbre' Strings

    Just my opinion, but they would compare unfavorably. These strings have a torsion problem, much worse than modern gut strings, which means they need to be bowed with very little weight and a lot of speed. Spiccato and soutillee are almost impossible, long, loud bowing too. I am a professional baroque cello player, and the sound and playability of the lower two brilliant strings have very little to do with gut (which is what ppl usually are looking for when trying synthetic strings) I quite like the upper two strings, but don't use them as I need more power than they deliver.
  15. baroquecello

    violin neck crack question

    The stiffness of the neck influences the sound and playing characteristics. If the fingerboard isn't properly glued on, repair could change the instrument negatively or positively.