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PASEWICZ

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Posts posted by PASEWICZ

  1. 33 minutes ago, Strad O Various Jr. said:

    I am not Anonymous, my name is Strad O. Various, My father's name was Strad O. Various Sr., but you can call me Strad. Who's anonymous is who rehairs your bow when you send it to a mail order rehair service.

    Oh hardly.  I am all over all of our sites, and I do every rehair every time...as it states ON THE SITE!!  No wonder you want to be anonymous..:D

  2. 8 minutes ago, jacobsaunders said:

    Evidently understanding a “concept” is particularly reprehensible

    Indeed it is Jacob, which is why you hear that so much.  These things are not new or different.  Spend more time learning, and less time trying to defend not learning, and you will be much better off..... Toilet cleaner man...you are defending using toilet cleaner on bow hair rather than rehairing....you are supposed to be a professional!  Have a little self respect.

  3. 36 minutes ago, Strad O Various Jr. said:

    Rehairing a bow just because the hair got a bit dirty seems a bit stupid, but I can see why a bow rehairing outfit might tell you that, doesn't make it true, though.

    Not understanding concepts do not make them stupid.  But of course you being anonymous betrays your intentions....

    27 minutes ago, jacobsaunders said:

    Not if you have a mail order re-hairing kiosk, and your tongue is hanging out waiting for someone to give you $75

    Jacob, it is okay to just not understand a concept. Blaming others for your lack of knowledge about a subject, and criticizing people that have the wherewithal to support themselves seems pretty small...

  4. Thank you for trying Rue.

    Cleaning bow is is not a good thing to do because it is dangerous to the bow and does not have the desired effect of renewing the hair.

    Cleaning bow hair with toilet bowl cleaner is not a good thing to do and is monumentally foolish.

    Cleaning bow hair with toilet bowl cleaner and suggesting others do it is monumentally foolish and irresponsible.

    Cleaning bow hair with toilet bowl cleaner, suggesting others do it, calling people “stupid” that do not use it, and then blaming others for your monumental foolishness and irresponsibility when you get called on it, is despicable.

  5. 1 hour ago, jacobsaunders said:

    Sooner or later, one fears, the Europeans will let Americans visit again. You could visit the Rue de Rom where the best French workshops are and watch all the best French bow makers clean bow hair with “cif” (Toilet bowl cleaner) and water. It is a thankless task passing on their trade secrets via Maestronet to some red-neck American mail order bow shop

    Sure, blame your dipshitery on someone else, why am I not surprised.  How about dealing with your own ignorance and address the problem of how cleaning bow hair doesn’t help worn bow hair?  Better blame it on the French, or your pappy....... take responsibility for yourself.

  6. 34 minutes ago, La Folia said:

    Is it secured with hide glue?

    Water is a problem.  It can cause deformation of tips causing them to pop off or leaving them permanently deformed, and it can cause cheek cracks as blocks expand... Alcohol can can cause problems as well with finishes and coating the hair with liquid rosin.  The real issue here, is bows need to be rehaired for more reasons than the hair being dirty; in fact it is incredibly rare for that to be the primary reason. As the hair stretches with use, it stretches unevenly which can cause dramatic decreases in performance and even long term damage to sticks that are warped as a result.  Spend the money to have a rehair rather than risk long term damage with alcohol, or TOILET BOWL CLEANER......(seriously, a professional telling people to clean bow hair with toilet bowl cleaner?  What are you thinking?) you will be much better off, and you bow and your playing will benefit.

  7. 13 minutes ago, jacobsaunders said:

    I suggested "cif" which is for cleaning the toilet, Shampoo or washing up liquid is a substitute if you don't have any cif. Having washed the hair, you rinse it (with water) and wait untill it has dried. Splashing about with alcohol is stupid.

    Easy there cowboy, slashing about with toilet cleaner and water is not exactly rocket surgery either....

  8. It looks like that is not the shaft diameter, but the end diameter.  Your bow person should be able to spin one down that fits..it is not a big deal.  We do not even use pre-made screws but instead use what used to be called Panhaleux'sp' screws.  No worries about the screw, I do not think it deserves the "old" moniker.

  9. 5 hours ago, Jeff White said:

    I (begrugingly) told a good customer I would rehair his bow with that newer synthetic hair from Connolly under the "Coruss" name.  Now I'm nervous.  From a rehairer standpoint, does it react like horsehair?  What should I be cautious about?(other than not doing this again.....)Help Jerry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Sorry Jeff.  I was asked to review this hair maybe a decade ago by the company that imports it for distribution in this country.  As I told them at the time, it is truly horrible stuff.  It has an uncanny ability to make every string on every instrument sound false.  The other big issue for me was at the time the hair was promoted as lasting far longer than real hair, it did not stretch, and was not susceptible to humidity changes.  This was problematic as of course it does stretch and therefore stretches unevenly so the supposed benefit of lasting longer was a danger to the bows themselves.    At the time, it was also more expensive than real hair so my advice to the distributor was to pass on the product.   I also left them with the realization that they are solving a problem that doesn’t exist.....we are not running out of horsehair and horses are not killed to supply bow hair.

    As far as how the stuff works for rehairing, it is like hairing a bow with fishing line...because it is rehairing a bow with fishing line....except they treat the hair with something that raises the PH.  They are probably doing this to hold the rosin better, but it dramatically reduces the time you have to tie a CA knot.....and yes I have have rehaired bows with fishing line.

    So to bottom line this stuff, it does not rehair like horsehair, it does not sound as good as horse hair, it is more expensive than horsehair, and it puts the bows at more risk than horsehair.....we can address the whole idea behind having a cool way to ignore relative humidity at some other time.  
     

    I do wish you luck, once again, sorry.

  10. Just now, Goran74 said:

    Yes. Making a new frog without underslide.

    Then you do not deal with the feather edge from inside.  Keep the frog may oversize where it meets the stick, fit it to the stick, place your silk re-enforcement, and then bring the frog down from the outside.  By the time there is a feather edge it has already been re-enforced.

     

    JP

  11. 21 minutes ago, Goran74 said:

    Dear Mr Jerry, first of all, thank you for the invaluable 'lesson' you provided here for free. Secondly, I would like to say that French, especially transitional bows without undersides, have not such a deep chanel and 45° angle like modern bows. My biggest difficulty on frog was to make a chanel without underside, and make it perfect, without cracking the edges (no CNC involved) . All the times I was using CA glue at the end to fix some scratches etc. After Chisel I was using files to straighten the surface. If we use only hand tools, what is the best way to open the underside chanel the perfect way, before silk and glue treatment? 

     

    Are you asking about making a new frog?

  12. 20 minutes ago, nathan slobodkin said:

    So you are using the stick as a clamping caul to glue the silk? Do you restore the feather edge first then add the reinforcement?

    Well, that is the problem...the feather edge has no glue surface, so you have to remove more wood to get to a point of meaningful repair....then we lose so much original material.

    We have to clamp the silk and hot glue to the stick or the shrinking of the glue will deform and crack the edge; not unlike using silk on a varnished surface like a top.  With the CA it is safer, and you get a very good fit.  On a new bow, I would use silk and CA which will give it a lot of strength.

  13. 20 hours ago, MarkBouquet said:

    Is this issue the reason why Vuillaume developed the bow design where the frog “rides the rails” on the stick,  later used by the Hills as well? I always wondered why they went to the trouble.

    Hard to know, if they did,  it was for opposite reasons.  Vuillaume bows use an underslide where Hills do not.

  14. 19 minutes ago, martin swan said:

    I have done this occasionally as part of the selection process. I suppose it depends on the sensitivity of the player, but so far my experience is kind of the opposite.

    If you have a great Tourte or Persoit in the mix, a player will choose it blind, as will people listening in the room.

    It's largely because of these experiences that I argue as I do.

    Interestingly when Derek Wilson makes a copy frog for something like a Persoit, he puts a few chips in the edges of the frog, just to make it look more real - here's a copy Persoit frog he made for us ...

    10307persoit-violinbow-base-msv.thumb.jpg.e45c7dac6053fe51763482c7bf20586a.jpg

     

     

     

    Martin, I am not arguing your observations, rather the conclusions you are making from those observations.  I would never argue that there are differences between Tourtes and Simons, but rather that boiling it down to a lack of underslide or reenforcement being the deciding factor.  BTW, are you sure that frog in the picture does not have a reenforcement?

  15. 12 minutes ago, martin swan said:

    The price of a cheval (however expensive) is pretty insignificant compared to the value of a Persoit for example.

    I couldn’t agree more:mellow:, however the loss of original material is also expensive.  I would be very interested lining up modern and non modern bows with and without underslides....and the variables that would entail...(glue,no glue, pins, screws, eyelet size, etc) and have players play them blindfolded and see where the opinions fall.  Judging just from my own experience watching players and working on their bows, I suspect the biggest variable will turn out to be the blindfold. 

  16. 10 minutes ago, nathan slobodkin said:

    Are people really thinking that tone is affected by having a metal frog liner between the frog and the stick? I have heard a lot of bows with liners that are considered absolutely fabulous by top players and while different bows definitely sound different I cannot imagine being able to quantify a tonal difference between lined and unlined frogs. Surely a few strokes of rosin, the humidity in the room or whether or not the player is wearing a watch would have as much effect.

    Yes, Peccatte comes to mind.  You are correct that many things can change the sound of the bow, even the slight wearing of the eyelet.  I am not sure I would be able to nail down if it was the underslide making a difference or not considering all the variables...the glue for the underslide comes to mind.  I did have a client say that her Hill sounded different after repairing a chip from a head to frog rehair job on tortoise.....but later evidently it returned.

  17. 5 minutes ago, martin swan said:

    Traditional wood to wood mounts (not Hill style) are definitely susceptible to damage, but I think this can be regarded as legitimate wear, rather like cracks in the table of a violin. Chipping to the edges can be patched up, and if it gets too bad then one fits new wood to the sides of the frog.

    I don't think it should inform making practices - these should rather be informed by the pursuit of the best sonic and playing characteristics.

    Whether it makes the best sonic practice is certainly not decided.  Once the chipping occurs in the feather edge, it cannot be repaired well by patching....there just is not enough glue surface.  I would also disagree with your analogy....a more appropriate analogy would buying a violin that is too made thin, that will certainly need to have cracks repaired very early in life, and once repaired the cracks are not reenforced, therefore guaranteeing the cracks will happen again as well as new cracks, which can only be repaired well with a very expensive wood replacement, that when done will certainly need  to have cracks repaired very early in life...etc.

    and...a well done cheval is pretty damn expensive....

  18. Traditionally these are done with hot glue and silk, and varnished or formaldehyde to keep it from sticking.  It has to be glued on the stick with a plastic wrap isolator.  Later we did it with silk and cyanoacrylate (Glorified Krazy glue), and these days it is also done with carbon fiber.  I prefer the silk.

  19. First off Martin, it is not all bows with wood on wood mountings that are prone to damage, it is wood bows that have the ebony ending with a feather edge..there is a big difference as the Hills understood; I do not believe I have ever seen an ebony Hill that did not have an underslide or was not let into the stick.  It is certainly understandable why this is a problem, all one needs to do is look at a few from the front or the back to understand the issue. Many of the old bows you speak of are re-enforced with silk to preserve what is left because of their fragility, I have done it to numerous bows myself, this reenforcing can be invisible....you may not have noticed.  I understand you would not discourage makers from creating them, however, I would certainly inform players of the inevitable damage of not having this area re-enforced with a bow like this....if asked.  
     

    41AC3C96-9AF8-48F6-B3F9-FB7035A685D8.thumb.jpeg.bca1668400e6fd0695899325febfdd95.jpeg

  20. It is done by some makers, but if not re-enforced it is always a problem.  I believe they think it sounds better....which includes no CF re-enforcement....it is a tough sell for me, but I am one of the people that has to deal with the bows after the sale.

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