mbmsv

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Posts posted by mbmsv

  1. Hi NewNewbie!

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    <BR>I have the following gouges:

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    <BR>Stubai 18 milimeters sweep 6, fish tail (I use this quite a lot in scroll carving and in the scoop on the C bouts), with a big mushroom handle

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    <BR>Stubai 30 milimeters sweep 4, fish tail, with a big mushroom handle

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    <BR>Stubai 6 milimeters, sweep 6, fish tail, with a small mushroom handle

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    <BR>Stubai 30 milimeters, sweep 3, fish tail, long, strong handle (rarely used)

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    <BR>Stubai 36 milimeters, sweep 5, fish tail, long, strong handle

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    <BR>Goldenberg (French), 6 milimeters, paralell, perhaps sweep 8, for the last stroke on the eye of the scroll

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    <BR>Japanese "ori nomi" (gouge), 10 milimeters, paralell, sweep 8 (I think), that I use quite a lot in scroll carving and in the channel over the purfling.

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    <BR>Japanese "ori nomi" (gouge), 4.5 milimeters, small, all steel, parallel, sweep 8 (I think), that I use on the corners over the purfling mitre.

    Hi Manifo,

    I hope it is OK to continue an old thread... Out of these six, which ones do you use on violins and which are only for celli? Also, are they all out-channel? I am a little bit frustrated with how expensive these tools are... so I am trying to find some used on ebay, but it's hard to do not really knowing what's needed, what's desirable and what to avoid...

  2. At the risk of Jezzupe telling me to "shaddupamaface" I wouldn't go for sharpening machinery if I were you. 1000 grit and 6000 grit bench waterstones (or a combination stone), couple of similar grit slip stones and a honing guide (even though it might make you feel like you're wearing short pants) would be my advice.

    I rented the Sharpening woodworking tools DVD with Leonard Lee from a library and I agree I don't need a machine. It is a great video. It does advertise some stuff that Lee Valley sells, but Leonard promotes the simplest tools possible and shows how to make honing tools using scrap wood. Maybe in the end I will spend the same $200 the machine costs, but I will help the world by wasting less electricity :)

  3. I think davets suggestion to go to Simeon is a good one. It's a one stop shop, with different price points, and , unlike foraging the lumber yards, he knows what you need. And already has it. And it's already cut.

    He's also a nice and generous guy to deal with.

    Thanks guys. I think that's where I will go!

  4. You also don't necessarily need to buy wood from a violin supplier. My latest violin has wood in it that cost me around $40 or so. I went to an annual woodworking convention show around here and scored a 'guitar billet' for about $60 that I resawed, and a seemingly useless block of maple I got two violin necks out of for a whopping $10. I traded some nice mahogany to a guitar maker in New York for the Kermodie Spruce top, and the ribs are surplus from earlier back and side sets. Try a local specialty woods store if you have one.

    I thought about it. There are 2 problems: 1. my band saw is not big enough for resawing, 2. there is no way to know if the wood at a local store was properly stored/dried... Although perhaps I should still check them out...

  5. I have a question on selecting wood for the first instrument. I guess my question is how cheap I can go while still hoping that the instrument will be useful should I be able to complete it? International Luthiers' Supply have violin kits ranging from roughly $90 to $230. At other places they start from around $250 and go higher... Any advice from those who have already been there?

    Thanks

  6. I've been trying to find if Duport cello drawings have ever been published and came across a post where Sacconi's book was mentioned as a source of some Duport measurements. Can someone comment on how complete these measurements are and whether this book is indeed the best source for them?

    Thanks.

  7. Hi all,

    I am thinking of trying to build a cello or perhaps a violin first, although I am more interested in a cello... So far, while waiting for my Art of Violin Making book to arrive, I've been studying the Jasmine Davis' site (with which I am very impressed) and I have a few questions:

    1. Is using of power tools somehow considered "wrong"? I thought I could use a jointer for for preparing front and back plates for joining... I was also wondering if one could use a planer to bring the ribs to the correct thickness? I don't own any of these tools, but one of my colleagues at work does and he could let me use them...

    2. I found the way Jasmine was fitting linings quite awkward... I was wondering if there is a better way?

    3. I have some not too bad woodworking skills, but I've never learned how to sharpen tools properly... Is there a good guide on this, especially considering all kinds of curved instruments used in violin making?...

    Thanks in advance for your answers!