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John Harte

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  1. Davide, I'll see what I can find out regarding 3B being the only one recommended for wood joints. If anything can happen, it may take a while. The 3B does seem to have a longer tack time than other glues I have used. Even so there seems no problem pulling threads between thumb and first finger as the glue does tack. What you have been using has very similar viscosity and jelly strength specs to the current Special 1 glue so maybe this is more suitable than the 3B for the major glue joints??? I will let you know if I find out anything.
  2. Apparently possible. Mexican cochineal contains carminic acid whereas Kermes vermilio contains kermesic acid. If I recall correctly, Polish cochineal contains carminic and components of kermesic and flavokermesic acids.
  3. Davide, thank you very much for your additional comments and extra material. What you mention regarding higher gel strength and the possibility of this equating to longer and less fragmented protein chains potentially resulting in greater holding strength may well be the case. Whatever the case, the Glue Grade Selection section beginning on page 8 in the first attached below certainly states that the higher jelly strength grades (grams) are the strongest. I am not sure what the Jelly Strength actually indicates as it involves a standardised dry glue weight and water quantity/ratio for all glues being measured. Given that we don't use the differently rated jelly strength glues like this, i.e., we vary the glue to water ratio, I wonder what the actual relative strengths are. In my own tests I found the Nikawa 3-B glue bonds a lot stronger than the Bjorn 315 that I tried in spite of expecting otherwise based on the relative stated gram/jelly strengths. I wish that I knew more about the manufacture of the various grades and at what point each was extracted in, for example, the process outlined in page 2. I imagine that the first extraction might have the longest and least fragmented protein chains but this could be quite incorrect as this may involve the most easily broken down protein material. Different manufacturing processes might also result in different outcomes. In the second attached, Cowskin Japanese glue 3-B is the only one of their glues that is specifically mentioned as being suitable as an adhesive for wooden parts. With reference to the same glue, Cremona Tools also mention the following, presumably from the manufacturer: “Nikawa is suitable for all wood works and restoration of wooden parts. In the work of repairing/reproduction cultural assets and properties, Nikawa's use can be classified roughly into two applications - as a binder for coloring pigments or as an adhesive for wooden objects. We recommend the concentration of the dissolved Nikawa glue used as an adhesive to be: Water : Nikawa = 6 : 4 (ratio by weight).” I remain confused, but that's not unusual... 40 Centuries and Still Holding.pdf Nikawa Shop Glues.pdf
  4. Davide, thank you very much for your reply which I much appreciate! This is all very helpful! I'll see if I can find out more regarding the Amanosan 1-S. I have something like 2kg of Amanosan/Nikawa 3B that my daughter in law has kindly acquired for me on various trips back to Japan. I have only thus far used it for gluing cracks and an open centre joint following a series of trial tests. It seems to be a very good glue with a noticeably longer gel time than anything I have used in the past. My only concern has been the listed gel strength but maybe this doesn't ultimately matter given the dilution ratio involved. (The ratio I have started out with has been 1:2 but a little further thinning has generally been involved so would have ended up close to what you have used.) I'll see if my granddaughter can translate the Japanese text this weekend. If not my daughter in law or son should be able to. Many thanks again!
  5. Davide, have you ever tried any of the Japanese Hide Glues for these joints, e.g., Amanosan 3B or Harima? If you have, I am interested in any comments that you might be able to make. The Amanosan (Nikawa?) in particular appears to have a very different gel strength to the glue you mention using in your video.
  6. See here for Roger's reply (posted May 13) to Oded Kishony's question regarding fillers: https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/328014-making-a-double-bass/page/9/
  7. Might this form the basis for something along the lines of what you are looking for: https://www.mdpi.com/2073-4360/15/17/3652
  8. See photo below. I bought a number of these (violin, viola, cello) when they first became available (30+ years ago???) but only ever used a few. I have a very vague recollection of the wood being referred to as plane wood versus the standard type of maple that Aubert generally used.
  9. I agree regarding your view on the succession of processing phases. There is some good evidence to support this.
  10. These were cut from power hacksaw blades which, according to the manufacturer, were made of M2 steel. I had previously used this for small plane blades and found it worked well. The edges of the scrapers shown in the photo are not turned; i.e., are a knife edge profile. One benefit of this and the double bevel is being able to equally push or pull the scraper at similar angles relative to the work surface to achieve the same type of cut/scrape.
  11. I'm not right yet. I look forward to hearing of what you discover if you do get to see them outside the box! Maybe adding weight to my best guess, old sword or knife tips would most likely be double beveled. However a double bevel might not be so for all the scrapers. I suspect that the scrapers are much thicker than the 1.6mm that I mostly used. Stiffness was a consideration but creating an edge on thicker steel would have taken a lot longer...
  12. From photos like the first below, I had assumed that these scrapers were double beveled. The second photo features some of my scrapers made along similar lines. These took a while to get used to but I have come to like how they work.
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