Bill Yacey

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Everything posted by Bill Yacey

  1. I tend to be of the view that Amati scrolls are more graceful in general; less angular and more gentle curves.
  2. It would be a tight-rope balancing act to use such a plane.
  3. Usually over heating on the grinding wheel anneals the steel, leaving it in a soft state, and often with some of the carbon burnt out of the steel which makes it impossible to harden properly.
  4. Just got the Lee Valley flyer today; they made mention of a sharpening resource on their website:
  5. See subsection: Uses
  6. I might be wrong, but that's what I remember.The Venetian turpentine I'm familiar with is a thick, honey-like viscous liquid. Colophony is the hard residue left behind after distilling the volatile turpentine out of pine tar. Strasbourg if I recall correctly is made from balsam fir sap.
  7. It's like the thousands of bread recipes floating around. Everyone has a slightly different spin on what it should be.
  8. Would it not be more accurate to have a shaped outline board, and mark, finish and glue / clamp the finished back to the ribs while they are still glued to the board? This way the ribs won't drift out of shape.
  9. Check Luis Manfio's threads on scrolls. I think you might find it there.
  10. This is why I suggested a medium vacuum, enough to create a little bit of negative pressure at the crack opening, and then immediately removed when the glue is drawn into the crack. Using air pressure to push the glue into the crack might work, but it might tend to gel the glue too quickly
  11. How are you going to graft that onto a neck?
  12. I wonder if taping up the F holes and applying a medium vacuum source momentarily to the endpin hole would draw the glue in from any cracks?
  13. Quartz iodine / halogen bulbs emit quite a bit of UV also, although it's accompanied by considerable heat.
  14. A little splash with some raspberry juice or some cola goes down nice! I've had the odd shot of 80% or so straight up, but I don't recommend it.
  15. Ferric chloride? I have lots of that sitting around from making circuit boards. Perhaps it's the acidic resins and linoleic acid in the linseed oil that turn the rust dark over time. Ferric chloride, being a strong base would tend to neutralize any acids present, and may account for it's stability , color-wise. Edit: After reading up on ferric chloride, I see it's a strong acid; I'm not sure why I thought it was an alkaline.
  16. A little judiciously applied steam can help loosen things up too.
  17. I think it was Mike Molnar that recommended Spike Lavender oil; a couple drops in the case every 4 months or so, and I haven't ever seen any sign of bow bugs since.
  18. Nothing wrong with doing it like that. If you are tapering the ribs, you'll want to make a slightly longer spacer to make the top block to minimize having to plane it later. Edit: Don't get too much into production mode; allow the blade to fully stop before removing your cut piece, for sake of safety.
  19. I didn't see you original post, but using a tablesaw to cut blocks to the proper rough height is overkill. I set up my bandsaw once in awhile with a fence, and cut up a bunch of material for blocks. I usually cut up enough for a dozen instruments at least, and throw them into a storage bin.
  20. I know Nagavary was promoting chitin, from lobsters, crab, etc., But I thought the Cochineal fit Carl's "bug shell varnish" descriptor more aptly than chitin.
  21. It certainly looks good. Time will tell the rest of the story. What glue did you end up using?
  22. - And center joints, too. Anything you would never want to come apart.
  23. I think Lepage's / Loctite PL premium glue would work for rungs and other morticed joints.