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Bill Yacey

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Everything posted by Bill Yacey

  1. When I was a kid, I found a site in a forest where a tornado recently touched down. It laid waste to a few acres of spruce that were around 100 years old; they were torn out of the ground, roots and all, none of the trees shared common roots. They all had their individual , shallow root systems, no deeper than perhaps 4 feet or so, from what I recall.
  2. See if Nancy Groce still works there. A very kind lady, and very helpful. When I was there, unfortunately they were renovating the exhibits and the instruments were packed away in crates and put into storage.
  3. You might try white scotchbrite pads, or rubbing down with some pumice. Alternatively, try 000 pumice, or even 00, which is a little coarser.
  4. I use the small Lee Nielsen scraper plane for ebony, among other things. It works excellent on gnarly grain with no tear-out.
  5. I've used G2 for over 30 years without any issues of creep, the first was one of my own bows, which I still own and use on a regular basis. CA may be good for the initial glue-up before cutting the spline slot, but if it lets go during sawing, your problems will be compounded. The only issue I ever heard was from a luthier that tried G2 for the first time, but he didn't thoroughly mix it properly. My advice is to mix it for at lest 5 minutes, and when you think it's mixed enough, mix it some more.
  6. What's the problem with chucking the bow in the headstock, and the bit in the tailpiece? Just don't spin the bow so fast that it flops about from centrifugal force, and drill with a low relief angle bit to prevent hogging.
  7. They must have eliminated candidates on high blood pressure pills during the hiring process.
  8. If you use a relatively small washer, it would get the arc except for the last 1/4" or so on the ends until you run into the linings. The remaining bit could be extrapolated.
  9. You can use the pencil and washer follower similar to what some do for marking the plate overhang outline from the ribs. Mark the arc on a piece of cardstock by rolling the washer on the inside of the ribs.
  10. Nut files These cut a round bottomed groove.
  11. I know it's a little late, but why wouldn't you just thin it with turpentine?
  12. For flat surfaces or a large radius convex surface, I have found the Richards single edge razor blades used in their hand scrapers very useful when a slight burr is turned on the edge. I've also reground and sharpened them to specific profiles successfully. Razor Blade
  13. The guy that carved that scroll must have been nursing a bad hangover...
  14. Beautiful wood, but I don't envy you when you start carving the neck.
  15. From what I can gather, it needs to grow within a nurse crop of other trees to provide ideal growing conditions too. They cite that even within Brasil, the trees don't do well in the other regions.
  16. It only grows in a small area of brasil, in fact the province it grows in is named after it. It appears that it needs very specific conditions to grow. Pau Brasil Range
  17. I always thought those were sponsor ads for Maestronet.
  18. I use brad point drill bits to make the holes. I drill them early on even before hollowing out the inside of the plate. The spurs slice the wood and make for a very clean hole.
  19. I too use small planes and files to rough-radius the edge. For finishing, I use a small block of wood about 2 inches long and about 1/2" square, with a U shaped channel about 6mm wide cut along the length I glued a piece of cloth backed sandpaper into the channel, held to shape with an appropriate diameter dowel so the sandpaper conforms to the channel shape. I find scrapers tend to chatter too much on the end grain, especially on the top plate.
  20. I think in the case of vehicles, they are made far more complex than they need to be. On my own vehicle, I have found the majority of the problems are due to the use of crappy electrical connectors that appear designed to fail. Years ago, Philips developed a modular assembly for their television sets, and other manufacturers followed suit. A service technician would identify which module the problem was with, and simply swap it out with a new or refurbished board. The damaged one would then be returned to the shop and repaired and put back into service on another set in the field. Nothing went to the landfill, and the home repair was performed within a half hour, keeping the customer happy. In the case of a bow, if it can be rehaired indefinitely, it will provide service for decades to centuries, with only worn or damaged horsehair ending up in the landfill, or compost heap.
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