Bill Yacey

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About Bill Yacey

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    Creator of Fine Shavings

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    : St. Albert, Alberta, Canada

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  1. I think the tubes certainly would be the answer to the multiple shadow issue.
  2. It's hard to say if it's just a difference in color temperature, but the light appeared noticeably diminished. I have a fiber optic certification meter that will yield very accurate light measurements, accurate to a hundredth of a decibel; I'll have to take some measurements and see what's really happening.
  3. Micro fracture chips will stick to a magnetized edge and further hasten the destruction of a fine edge during use.
  4. You probably already know this, but the advantage to a hollow grind is only a very small amount of material needs to be removed when touching up a plane iron or chisel, knife, etc. on a flat whetstone; with a flat bevel, the whole face of the bevel needs to be reduced until the desired edge is obtained.
  5. I have my 60" tablesaw over in my dad's shop, as he has a lot more room there when cutting up sheet plywood for cabinets etc. I had suspended two 4 foot 2 tube fluorescent fixtures end to end, about seven feet above the saw table, as the shop has a 16 foot ceiling; this lit up the saw rather well. A few years ago, my dad decided to "revamp" the lighting in the shop; he had a bunch of incandescent sockets, so he removed the tubes and ballasts from all the fluorescents, and installed the incandescent sockets into the old fluorescent housings, spaced a foot apart and then put LED bulbs into the sockets. Now, the first thing I noticed was eight 100W equivalent LED bulbs wasn't as bright as four fluorescent 40W tubes, but more importantly is the multiple shadows created by multiple light sources. It seems the LEDs don't diffuse the light as well as the fluorescent tubes. This is something of an annoyance when making careful measurements and marking for cuts. I think I'll switch these over to the LED tubes that can be installed into existing 4 tube fixtures and see if they are any better. How do you find your new LED lighting with respect to shadows?
  6. Another option is to find a qualified clock / watchmaker and get your old indicators repaired.
  7. The only problem with dials common for machining is they are too fine for instrument making. Usually accuracy to 1/10 of a mm is good enough.
  8. Have you checked the 'bay? Dial Indicator They have quite a few different listings. You may have to do a little adapting for the lifter pin, but that shouldn't be difficult.
  9. With the right glue, a cross grain spline would help prevent any future breaks and would be stronger than the original wood. Not using a spline means the gluing surface area is quite small and will likely fail again.
  10. Put in a spline and glue it up. It'll be stronger and more useful as a working bow, than a cracked artifact.
  11. You might want to consider getting the Hammerl Varnish book. It's like a dictionary of varnish components.
  12. The weather finally broke; it warmed up to -31C this morning, with a forecast high of -27C today, Thank goodness we're back to T shirt weather again.
  13. Case in point: It's -42C here this morning, and I hear the heating service companies are completely booked up due to furnace problems all over the region. Most of the problems however, are due to electronic issues in the furnace sensors, servos and controls. It's always a good idea to have a contingency plan.
  14. https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/p/GTL70399?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxPyLhMKD5wIVbxitBh3e_AEqEAQYASABEgJh8PD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIxPyLhMKD5wIVbxitBh3e_AEqEAQYASABEgJh8PD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3645!3!303439922315!!!g!545614785298!
  15. That's more or less what I do as well. If your cuts are true and square, there's hardly any fitting to do at the joint; just apply the glue, butt the second rib up and clamp.