Bill Yacey

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About Bill Yacey

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    Creator of Fine Shavings

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    Male
  • Location
    : St. Albert, Alberta, Canada

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  1. Not to mention shredding the strings! I don't think the gold laquer would have the same polished shine that real gold has. Even the gold leaf I've seen used in iconography has dull finish compared to polished gold.
  2. Are you suggesting the casein made from cheese curds is unsuitable for our purposes, or is it suitable? I wasn't sure what your example indicates.
  3. Sometimes, but more often I get the arching to where I want it, install the purfling and then finish off the channel, corners and edgework.
  4. I always complete the outline margin first, then level off the first 1/2 inch or so inwards from the edge, and then cut the purfling channels followed finally by the arching.
  5. Power tools can be a double edged sword ( no pun intended); they can quickly bring a blade to a sharp working edge quickly, but they can also destroy a blade equally as quick in the wrong hands.
  6. Alternatively, you could replace the leather with some adhesive backed velcro, and grow out the beard some.
  7. The problem with American Big leaf maple is not so much the acoustical properties, but the prominent annular rings that show with high contrast, compared to European maple, and the fact that it's a fast growing tree with wide ring spacing. The factors make it something less than desirable to many makers. It does however, have some spectacular figure. I have some American Red Maple that I bought years ago; it's something closer to Bosnian Maple characteristics than the Big Leaf. One of these days, I'll have to make some shavings and see how it works out.
  8. If it's an AC induction motor, the dimmer won't work. The dimmer can work though, if it's using a brush-type, universal series wound motor.
  9. Use a marking gauge to scribe the minimum thickness on the edge, and use a sharp finger plane to get it down close to the marked line, and finish off with scrapers.
  10. The PL glue in the caulking tube looked like a good product for sealing the end grain because it can be spread easily with a putty knife, won't wick deeply into the end grain, forms an air / water tight barrier, and uses moisture to cure.
  11. Judging by the fret spacing.it doesn't look like a western scale.
  12. Unfortunately the fellow I got the wood from split it open before I arrived, and then it was an additional 4 days before I got it home, whereupon I immediately peeled the bark and sealed the ends. I'm thinking I should cut it into billets right away. The ends had a little bit of checking already, but the pieces are 24 inches long, so I should still be ok.
  13. It is serious. Realistically, it should all be backed up to a couple different holders to maintain, as the information contained here is unobtainable elsewhere in it's wide variety of subjects and compiled knowledge. However, I don't know how problematic it would be for at least two other individuals to be backing up what must be a huge data base by now, on a regular basis.
  14. Arrived home from our trip last night, and immediately went to work stripping off the bark with a draw knife; it was sopping wet underneath the bark. Not having any PL glue handy, I sealed up the ends with carpenters glue, painting it in with a paint brush. Tonight I'll trowel on some PL and leave it set. Next step is to find someone with a with a large bandsaw to saw it into billets. Alternatively, I might weld up an extension block for my Delta and get a long 3/4" blade made up.