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http://jessupegoldastini.com
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bela marina
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I used to do other stuff, now I just make violins
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https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Stingray-Leather-Natural-Off-Cuts/dp/B097BB466Z/ref=sr_1_1?crid=31CYFHK4WGEAW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.x6tHM2ag31nWkx4mG77RYFk_hw6yjvO8EaaegtPLuBdTfIZfOZMvEo0TMbuGYnGE_BAbMVDI_WtswYI889zldaK_jiw1UELfZLupW_aKQa4j1MgFbOM3v9qrn5ZDvkDoKscy04qXx5K0tXPteyv1qeOfOghzT-m-r2wpCVe5GDrIXnGDde1mpcJQCSaflG9ZCEeF5fs1XOfOlsMcWvdH47tPDOilJTDr0QEiaDQXmPhYVMSeQLTGMgVdzC56HfuR9WVXqwc-Lo4ulYWumsYguWK0kx-APQOBuKNoPPZW5m4ViDNAq2DqTOxwhZYXioQwCplV6YiE2EOpM9qex9GpBWSK-k_OSo7J6NmYhCGdcodiDPDyGhOqnptldYlmJKkqnce6X0Q8sU2LymQlwEuE36mfeyhZ0neni69quUuoRRwTU2uocw_nPuhYvU76e3s-.U2HeHqX77JGFYBOh0WgmxAK248Ny7N_KO-ZyKh1YGyo&dib_tag=se&keywords=fish+leather&qid=1735372798&sprefix=fish+leather%2Caps%2C225&sr=8-1
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Sizing is the act of pre-applying glue to a surface, letting it dry, then wet gluing, this is done in certain circumstances as if you glue without sizing, the open grain can absorb the single wet application and make the glue joint "starved" of glue, which leads to failure of the bond. For example you always want to size when you glue a neck on, the mortice,button and neck heal where contact is made should be sized I personally don't think purfling needs sizing, but if you are to do that, as Mark eludes to, many will apply a "shellac" coat to the top, prior to cutting the channel, in order to prevent "glue ghosts" around the "ring" or edges, and then scrape it off while finishing the top,...some like Nick, scoop the recurve and then carefully work the edge to remove any glue....a glue ghost is a visual defect caused by glue soaking into wood and then once dry, over coated with an oil/spirit varnish, where ever the glue is it will show a whitish cast under the varnish, looks like crap, worst case you get glue all over your hands and leave "hidden" finger prints all over the place and then over coat them. Glue when dry on raw wood is virtually invisible and often only shows once varnished. Another way to visualize it is if you put a brush swath of water base poly on wood, let it dry, then over coat with oil poly, they are two different colors of film when dry, the water base is much lighter/whiter compared to the oils amber color I prefer the Hargrave method of installing purfling, it is by far the easiest cleanest method, which is to cut the channel, then fit the purfling dry, then to coat the purfling with glue, let dry, refit in the channel, then to incrementally apply with a brush boiling water, and then clamp as you go, super clean, holds great. Make some test channels, glue in as suggested, then pry it out, you'll see it holds very well
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Oil Varnish Curing Cabinet - Types of Bulbs
jezzupe replied to Chris Anderson, PhD's topic in The Pegbox
Well, I have played with varnish/finish/coatings going on 45 years now, and have a pretty good idea of how oxygen cross-linking {evaporation} works, for example with Joe's stuff, left in a room with no light it takes about 2-3 weeks to dry without fingerprints, with baby sitting sunning, you can get it dry in a day or 2, and with the lights I use, the 60 watts, they take about 1-2 days also. A product solar rez, which is 100% uv cure, will not dry at all without sun or uv lamps, these lamps dry it in about 10 min, whereas the sun its about 5 min, either way they dry varnish plenty fast enough for me and use little electricity and have low heat output compared to other types of lamps. -
Oil Varnish Curing Cabinet - Types of Bulbs
jezzupe replied to Chris Anderson, PhD's topic in The Pegbox
Oh yes, this was when I was new to the led's, experimenting with them, since then I have more if I need them, but find just running 2 with a fan dries with out too much heat, you can use more for less rotation, just leave the door/flap open. Like I say, solar rez, a 100% uv cure varnish dries very fast with these lights, so if leds did not work , they would not dry solar rez they have longer bars for bigger instruments, but the 2 60 watts shown are plenty for a violin -
Oil Varnish Curing Cabinet - Types of Bulbs
jezzupe replied to Chris Anderson, PhD's topic in The Pegbox
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Oil Varnish Curing Cabinet - Types of Bulbs
jezzupe replied to Chris Anderson, PhD's topic in The Pegbox
I use something like these in dope growing tents and they work great, cures solar rez varnish just fine also https://www.amazon.com/OUSIDE-Waterproof-Blacklight-Fluorescent-Nightclubs/dp/B0CCXP1125/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1QV6GOR1FYL56&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.WE0He396iiWyH41XbIWm-6fGOZy6pBD9lXstVQNulGUJk__T-b6cN_zcAhHjX_0qYsrFTECC-mA0DwqoLpa-ZT8gKAwKPVj_GCEBvQ-wKAmUUXri9DiYrXk95Zm0QFPOxj93WUZD_sgj-qfxEEbMoFadobOfxEb4DSFRhfuXzqEK-TPhn2DAop1jVb18nTuZfiOinX9bZABlX5wq-5mmpuXGtxjJ7tfdQmxQt1LVbqDdyISmPR7yjdcGO5hnGPiyIRFrhOV9H2K0ZBVzu3g_nXQ7GjpuiPW_WK3dandO3sY.sllcKGj-PPZfMbyv3l7-HXSZWb8o_os8pJ312CA00VU&dib_tag=se&keywords=led+black+lights&qid=1722325243&sprefix=led+bl%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Strengthened-Reflective-Hydroponics-AeroLight/dp/B0CGHJG44R/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2DN3X7D6CISZA&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Spx6QlUPHLkToA32ETLFFwvQF197a9gb9xcSlj5x2v1dTvbQbpvYH2JLrblq0mPeqc2kPr5I6e_aZzuDtFV-aVVvGqMmbXhCeicIVXYHUa7V34Iz-p50ZYROVo_O0e-sA8QeYGNmSOxD2Px3fsHBFST7rtQghW6qv8bYUlV_vLbQanf0YAF6s7uOAdbyre7GLTLZOWBYDmHjsv7zKCAF2yOlhAnLR0AE8EbLHAA1B7LgxCH8t4rIgCa0bP2ioahg5eWMVHcP2QXy25BE3MbH5-mzWvTxqDHCWxc3jj7vKPA.skHn76D3su2czRh_jVcZd8jzD7F3kg81kegaPR4kLaI&dib_tag=se&keywords=3x3+grow+tent&qid=1722325297&sprefix=3x3+%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 -
Mastering glue is a skill/voodoo ritual that requires using it over and over again in {your} specific environment. Evaporation rates are altered outside of just the heat from your pot, the humidity, ventilation and air temperature of the work space you are using will effect it's evaporation rate, along with the heat of course, to the point where there is no formulaic answer to your question. One must learn how to "keep the pot alive" and know how thin and thicken by either allowing evaporation or adding water, throughout the day while the "pot is on" and that changes throughout the day depending on small changes in the environment, it's best to develop "drip eye" which is basically developing the skill of knowing it's "right" by looking for connected protein chains and how the glue drips. Right can be different, depending on what glue task is being performed, I use thicker stronger glue for back seams, ribs to blocks, things like that vs thinner for say the top to the garland, it will be the same glue, it's just the thinner stuff will have more water added. Which runs into "critical path" as far as construction process order is concerned, we don't want our pot freshly thinned if we're going to glue ribs to blocks as an example. I never use measuring devices, just rough eyeball ratios, this skill comes only with repetitive usage imo. Just like mixing mortar or thinset as an example
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Oil Varnish Curing Cabinet - Types of Bulbs
jezzupe replied to Chris Anderson, PhD's topic in The Pegbox
I use low energy consumption high output led lights, they cure varnish just fine, so I think your statement about them "not being "good" is incorrect misinformation. They run much cooler than other types of bulbs, and in general feel much safer both for accidentally starting a fire to not "cooking" and warping an already finished instrument -
In the world of "boil proof" plywood, Birch is the wood that is the "most in the middle" as far as rate of absorption and wicking based on it's hardness /density, it's kinda like a soft hardwood, and therefore is what professional ply manufactures use for top of the line stable ply products.
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Hypochlorous acid solution
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That musta been a time before Satan came to town and turned everything ...non cisgender
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Repair of instruments between customs zones (?)
jezzupe replied to Renegade Violin's topic in The Pegbox
No, I live rent free inside of your head -
That means the violin is from california
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How many grains high quality soundpost should have?
jezzupe replied to ViolinAnanda's topic in The Pegbox
Don't worry Marty, you're totally gonna be a millionaire after you're dead