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Jerry Lynn

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Everything posted by Jerry Lynn

  1. The prices in the link appear to be both retail and possibly in canadian dollars. I order mine from Met Music. I use Milo Stamm blanks almost exclusively. I find the premium grade to be just about right for the hardness I’m looking for. I made the switch from Aubert when many of the deluxe blanks I was ordering were unusable (very wide grain, off the quarter, soft, etc.). I couldn’t afford to buy them and not have them be usable. I’ve never worried about a Stamm blank arriving and being disappointed with it.
  2. Nice work, Nikos! I love that style of knurling, it’s different than what most so do for 3d printed parts.
  3. I think the Reserva Escoda brushes are just that good. (Not that you don’t keep your brushes in nice shape, I’ve seen them, and you do…. I’m a slob by comparison) Since I got the recommendation from you, I’ve bought a lot less brushes.
  4. Hammerl alcohol colors - the ones that come in powdered form, not the extracts. I tried some of the suggested alcohol based inks, but they seemed to bleed a bit for me. I’ll mix the powders in alcohol and then dropper the colors into the scotchlite in a small jar. I’ll leave the jar lid slightly off to allow the alcohol to evaporate before mixing with hide or bone glue.
  5. Thinking out loud, with some experience peppered in: Most of my experience with strange holes in either plates or peg boxes occurs where they go straight though, if not initially then by the time i'm through cleaning out whatever junk is in there. In the instances where its been made to be a circular hole, the joint between a straight walled hole and same grain plug has been pretty good - I never wished for a tapered fit. That's not to say you also can't cut tapered same grain bushings on a cnc router and use a reamer, I do it all the time. It just seems like overkill for tiny stuff. In instances where the hole cannot be made easily cylindrical, I usually make a small scale cast of the hole with something like reprorubber, scan the cast and mill out several replacement pieces and pretend I'm an optometrist by asking myself which one is better. Most who go down the route of filling pin/screw holes with wood with out digital tools usually do it with a something similar to a core drill to make the plug material. It doesn't take much to make such a cutter, it doesn't even need to be hardened for quick use. What you are talking about is I think is also possible, either by making a custom cutter and plug former, or better yet using a ball end mill to plunge and a radius cutter in a lathe to match the diameter of the end mill. Turning same grain material in a lathe is difficult, but not impossible. All of this fun machine stuff aside, for something like the OP's instrument, I'd probably try fillers first after removing some of the offending material. You can really do wonders with scotchlight, and if you don't like it it is easily washed out.
  6. I swapped it out for one of the correct size, should look okay now.
  7. So, I do small same grain "bushings" kind of frequently. The mill Interpolates them pretty well. Takes nothing to draw in cad. My first time doing it from a few years ago to fill in parts of pins so I didn't have to take the button back further for a new crown: The ones in the first pic were my first attempt, and I did't have the tool path quite right. The second pic I felt pretty good about (show here glued in). I've done it since these slightly smaller and larger. When fitting to an existing pin hole of some sort, I usually clean up the hole with an appropriate sized drill bit.
  8. In my experience, bleached shellac that has been dissolved in alcohol also seems to have a very limited shelf life when incorporated into retouching varnish. In what seems like very little time it turns into a snotty mess.
  9. Though I will sometimes retouch under a microscope (mostly fill varnish into hairline cracks), most of the time I use a stereo microscope for crack cleaning. A .5 Barlow lens is useful for increasing the usable distance between the microscope and the instrument, increasing the field of view, and decreasing the magnification by half. I find head worn magnification, aka “becker checkers” to be more useful for retouching.
  10. If you are looking for a filler for missing wood fibers, scotchlight s22 seems to be the current best option. It can be colored with various alcohol based colors. It gets mixed with hide or bone glue and applied to the area of missing fibers (with room left for fill varnish and retouching above). If it is unacceptable, it can be washed out. If you are looking for fill varnish recipes a combination of manilla copal, sandarac, and light shellac can work well with copal being the dominant resin. Additions of aluminum hydroxide can allow you to use softer resins, but may decrease clarity. Using a matting agent allows you to vary the sheen. With all fill varnish, the window for easy trimming doesn’t last forever.
  11. As much as I love Fusion (I’m a paid user), the bulk of work I do with patches is done with meshlab and Roland’s proprietary cam (it’s very similar to Desk Proto). It’s just how I’m used to working - I can program in fusion just fine, it’s just overkill for most patches. The resolution and accuracy on the latest generation iPhone I’m not sure quite high enough to bank on... it’s astonishing for what it does, but at 1-5% error rate over a given set of stitched together scans… I’m not so sure I’d trust it. I also can’t find information on resolution. I might try it for kicks and report back. A few more years and it might be amazing. A better cheap option is to construct your own structured light scanner. The Accuracy and repeatability on a lot of the desk top CNC routers is getting better… it is really tough to judge the accuracy and repeatability of them based on their published specs. A better low end option would be to learn how to construct your own, or do what I did and bought old tech to start.
  12. Hide glue is more than fine. I’ve already taken apart instruments that I’ve installed under edge inserts on due to accidents from their owners, they seem to hold up just fine.
  13. I'm not going to comment on your age publicly, I do that enough privately Yes, enhancement of abilities does drive tech.... in the case of scanning and milling wood, the thing we are most inhibited by is that it's still borrowing from other industries (Dentistry, reverse engineering, subtractive rapid prototyping, scanning cosplay widgets for friends, etc.) That's not necessarily a bad thing. Everything right now is more than adequately at a level where the means to reproduce missing material by subtractive manufacturing exceeds the materials ability to hold extremely tight tolerances - i.e. breathing on the patch is in theory going to ever so slightly change its shape - not enough to worry about though. The area of tech to watch that is currently on the periphery of violin repair is 3d printing. While I don't think we'll see it in use for printing any sort of wood material, I think the technology could be adapted to print retouching onto a transferable substrate. They already have printers working in shellac...
  14. I purposely didn't want to get into the cost of equipment and software because it's something that is constantly changing, and can amount to gate keeping... I don't want discount the possibility that some smart kid two or three years from now might be using the then good enough LIDAR on their smart phone combined with a low end cnc router that they've hot-roded the drive mechanics and spindle on to do this very well for a rockbottom price. Free software can already be good enough.
  15. HA…. I still try to save everything, haven’t thrown out my tweezers. This is probably an accurate answer. There are somethings you can do like putting together your own SL scanner that might be cheaper than buying… all of the information to do any of this is out there free on the web. I did a video lecture for last years VSA convention where I went into costs. I believe if you are a member you can still access the lecture on an unpublished YouTube account.
  16. Better late than never, right? This is a topic that I've spent a lot of mental effort, time and money on... This was a real gem Joe Grubaugh showed to us that he and Sigrun developed. I think they've taken this one step further by filling some worm tract in ribs by compressing willow. A while back, I made a half hearted picture tutorial on Instagram, here's the link Summer growth fill Polymorph is compressed into the void using dental foil as a separator. A positive is then made using more polymorph, summer growth is then compressed between the two. This really is the ultimate wood fill. Since going on my own, the amount of under-edge carnage that has shown up on most jobs is more than I ever had imagined. While I think some wood fill in a can is okay, when large portions of the under edge become saturated with it, tonally the instrument starts to suffer. The following pictures where done with a structured light scanner, a Roland CNC mill (mdx20 & 50). Software I use regularly Roland 3d editor, Meshlab, Fusion360.
  17. They cut very fast by comparison, I think a little too fast if you just need to clean up a hole, or advance the peg a tiny amount. If I was going to have just one, it would be a straight reamer for the same reason Dave Slight said above. The ability to steer the hole is nice. If you can swing the expense of having both, I think it’s helpful to have options.
  18. Hey Thomas, Why not just use your CNC router to make custom oversized blanks to fit and finish in the normal fashion? Skip the middle process on the Deckel…
  19. I didn’t say I’d recommend it in your case. I don’t think it’s that bad. Conservative retouching and a healthy coat of retouch varnish on top is my usual first thing to try.
  20. The tape that is sometimes used for protecting an edge is 3M 471. It’s a vinyl tape, and will follow tight curves and bends. It should be removed and replaced from time to time with regular maintenance.
  21. Using pantographs to rough out patches while working from a cast is not a new idea… working directly on the instrument is incredibly risky.
  22. Back when part of my job duties had to do with helping to come up with strategies to maintain a fleet of rental instruments, we found Copic markers to be okay on the sort of instruments in that range. Your mileage may vary on what you consider acceptable appearance, however on a lot of these sorts of instruments shellac based retouch varnish doesn’t sit all that well on them…
  23. Fusion offers a personal/hobbiest license for noncommercial use. Its constrained to 10 editable designs open at a time. In CAM rapids constrained to the feed rate, ATCs aren’t supported, neither are multi axis tool paths. There are work arounds if you are ambitious.
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