Jerry Lynn

It's PLA 3d printed plastic, the threaded insert is thermally set into it. PLA does really well with CA glue, the wooden stud is first wetted with water, and then the CA glue will aggressively hold the PLA onto the stud. The stud is then glued to the plate with hide glue. 3d printed structures can be extremely light weight, being able to interface with wood allows for a great deal of possibilities for difficult cracks, arching correction, etc. I too will mark the rotation on the screw with a fine point sharpie so in the heat of the moment I won't go too far.

I borrowed your idea and put my own spin on it the last time you showed it, Mark. Works rather well!

Chris, will heat from a hair drier pull the oil to the surface of the unvarnished side?

This is what I would do.

By printing you mean to export a file for a 3d printer, that’s included in the personal license. Right click on the body you want to print and hit save as mesh, then import to your slicer of choice. The big differences between the personal and the paid subscription is the personal is capped at 10 active documents (you can archive as many as you want), and for CNC cutting tools ATCs aren’t supported. Rapids are limited to cutting speed. While I love fusion, and I do a lot with it, I usually recommend a different CAM package for beginners.

For it to gel? It’s almost instant.

David, thank you for listening! Omo is a labor of love, and with all labors… there is a good deal of growing pains. Season 1 was a hot mess of “how do we do this?” In subsequent years, we’ve tried to tackle hard problems, and be a voice for those whom traditional outlets in the trade would miss. Sadly, maybe we’ve become too polished?? I can swear more in future episodes if you like. Chris is still around, and while his spirit will always permeate the show, he’s decided to step back and devout more time to family, making, and his position at Potter Violins. He’ll show back up when we need him to. I’m still around and involved! I’ll show up more towards the end of this season, and the beginning of next. We have a new cohost, Brandon Godman (owner of the Fiddle Mercantile in San Francisco, and The Violin shop in Nashville.) We’ve been letting him run with things to provide some new perspective. There will also be more new voices coming on board in an attempt to provide other perspectives, and to let the rest of us have healthy work/life balances. Cheers! And thanks again for listening!

Pretty much all major (and most minor) CAM programs these days have zero problems dealing with any organic shape you can throw at them. Some, like DeskProto, you can use with next to experience and still get good results.

I do a fair amount of 3D scanning for restoration work. I think right now if I wanted to do your application fairly inexpensively, I’d look into photogrammetry. Micron precision isn’t necessary, and with a little bit of sweat equity in stitching photos together you could probably be up and running. There are numerous tutorials on YouTube on how to do this with largely open source software. With that being said, I’ve seen impressive results of plates done with an Einscan Pro. These can be found on eBay for +/- 5k. The Transcan C from the same company also looks quite good, and what I would be buying for my application if I needed to buy something new tomorrow. If you are feeling adventurous, you can build your own scanner using off the shelf components and flexscan software from polyga… which is probably what I’ll be doing for my next scanner. The new crop of budget scanners from creality and revopoint look very interesting, but I haven’t met anyone using them on instruments yet who are able to give feedback.

If you are looking to color peg shafts, I’ve had reasonably good luck with hair dye. I take the peg with me to the hair dye department of my local drugstore and match the head to the color on the box.

Yup! He recently moved back to Long Island. Very talented and a swell guy.

Many independents, if they are good, are more booked up than the “high street” shops. That’s speaking from the experience of myself and a lot of my colleagues. That being said, if you are looking for a good restorer/repairer, and you are willing to travel a little bit, I’d recommend Derek Michel on Long Island. He might be able to provide the sort of service you are looking for.

No.... I haven't used Triton x-100 in a while. I have my doubts that you can never really get it to wash out of the wood. I've heard of some switching to surfinol for that reason. The beauty of laponite is that you can mix it till it's fairly "loose." On it's own, it does a great job of opening cracks. You can apply a more watery mix to a string and lay it on a crack, cover with a piece of cling film and wait.

I do like Jeff does. It doesn’t gel with distilled/deionized water, seems to require a mineral content of some kind. At the time of mixing, you can also incorporate some solvents…

100% agree. Removing CA glue remnants from cracks is an awful experience.