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Everything posted by arglebargle

  1. Yes this. Depending on what you paid, I would be happy with 3 big, safe workable pieces and ribs rather than 5 pieces right on the edge. Unless you are really skilled at re-sawing, which I am not.
  2. In fact, if it was the case you describe, than wouldn't this would be the more effective design, an older baroque bridge?
  3. So the image you presented is just your speculation of how a bridge vibrates? I don't see the bridge as funnel shaped at all, or any aspect of it either. The "heart" is the consequence of the aesthetic sensibilities of the time, not some kind of vibration-directing device.
  4. How do you measure the waves traveling through the bridge? Based on your drawing it seems like the A and D string waves would hit the upper part of the heart and bounce back, barely reaching the feet. My understanding is that the vibrations moving through the bridge are a lot more complex than what you illustrated. If the heart was upside down, would the sound be effected? What if it was a circle? Honest questions.
  5. The most important things on a totally electric violin (not acoustic with a pickup on it) is the set-up and the amp. Shape doesn't really matter. You need the neck to be comfortable (something lacking in most low end elec. violins I've seen), the string length to be correct, and the bridge/nut/tailpiece/saddle to be well made and installed. After that it is all about what you use to get the sound out of it, mainly the amplifier. You are going to pay for a good neck/fingerboard and set-up, so focus on those aspects.
  6. Ivory soap works great. Just soap, nothing added. I've used it for years with great results. When the pegs won't grip, I use (very little) lava soap, in the bar form. It has pumice in it.
  7. Yup. And of course begs more questions, if I may: Is the difference between the treble and bass side a standard number, say 2.5mm? It appears quite large in the picture. Would this used on both new and older, funky instruments? And to be clear, is used when initially setting, or totally re-setting the neck? In a case where the lower bouts "need" a different tilt than the neck, which would take priority? Example, the body has warped to the point where the overstand would be reversed (A @ 20, C @ 22). Thanks!
  8. Jerry, Could you explain how you measure poiriette at the lower bout? I'm having a hard time picturing/understanding it. Thank you
  9. My understanding is that the tilt on a cello is mainly to facilitate bow clearance of the c bout on the A string. If you tilted it like a violin there is a chance the bow would hit the edge. But it varies by instrument.
  10. You got some advice from experienced people: don't. Or do. It's your time and effort and money. Nothing about that job looks feasible, reasonable, or even sensible. Not all instruments are meant for the ages. Give it a viking funeral and spend your time better.
  11. Just saw your new post. Throw that away. Don't add linseed oil to spirit varnish. Buy a good varnish from a known varnish maker/supplier, one that specializes in vanish for violins, and keep practicing. And read and ask and read and ask and practice and read and practice...
  12. I might suggest buying cheap white violins to practice on. Everyone here has screwed up a violin or two or three. It happens. It takes the sting out a bit if you haven't spent hours creating the thing you just screwed up. Cheaper in the long run?
  13. I just got back from the advanced cello set-up class with Chris Dungey. It was a great experience. A really nice space and very easy to work in. The Mohrs are super nice and accommodating. I would really recommend looking in to taking some of these classes. It would be great to see this endeavor take off. Chris Dungey is an excellent teacher and provided a ton of great information, methods and tips, as well as the reasoning and logic behind them. Thanks!
  14. I use an inside mold and no pins. I mark the corners and the upper and lower center line on the top/back. Then I lightly score the mold outline, then mark the plate outline. The ribs don't have to go back on the plates again until final assembly, and there are more than enough marks to show where they are intended to line up.
  15. I'l bite. How much? I've worked on benches that you need to anticipate the benches motion when planing. That sucks. These legs are as close to the feeling of the bench being attached to the wall on two sides that I've found. I have two work surfaces with these legs on them. One of them has (as close to ) zero (as can reasonably be expected in a physics governed universe) motion when pushed. The other I can detect a very small motion when I really give it a shove. But I don't typically work that way. Anyway, I love them. They work great for me, and the checks from Lee Valley every month don't hurt either.
  16. I'm not sure what to tell you. Maybe we have different definitions of movement and flex? When I have a cello neck on the bench and I'm planing it, there is no motion from the bench. When I am graduating a back, there is no motion. The truss rod that runs between the two legs is reinforced with wooden boards and tightened after the legs are attached to the bench. ??
  17. Yes. The bench doesn't move.
  18. Nope. Once set up correctly they are as solid and immovable as my opinions.
  19. THESE bench legs go a long way towards making a stable, working surface. Recommended.
  20. Also, unexpected aesthetic bonus! I love the way the bronze changes color when it's heated. From bronze to a lovely bronze/violet. Nice.
  21. Since there was some talk about poor communication and long shipping times from Luthier's Bench, I thought I'd give an update. David (Luthiers Bench) responded very promptly to my email inquiries. I ordered the iron from his website, and it arrived yesterday. Wow. So that is delivery in 8 days, from the U.K. to U.S.A. Better than some domestic suppliers. I haven't used the iron yet, but I am very pleased and impressed by the service. So there you go.
  22. Yup. That's what he told me. But fuck it. I bought a bronze one anyway. I had my first one for over 20 years, and I don't plan on buying another, so an extra 50 bucks so I can polish something shiny in my dotage is money well spent.
  23. What, if any, are the advantages of bronze over aluminum?