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Everything posted by arglebargle

  1. Sorry. That would be the Australian style of Perth.
  2. Hi all, I am shipping a cello to Perth, and want to send it with the set up down. Can anyone recommend a good luthier that would be able to set it back up after it arrives? Thanks.
  3. Could you expand on/explain your process for making a teflon mandrel? Thanks!
  4. Great answers! It seems that the hourly fee is often used as a guideline, and most jobs tend to be a known quantity, so the price can be set. However, there are some repairs that are priced well over the actual time it takes. I figure that this is because one has to factor in the time and experience that one has put in in order to be able to perform the job professionally. For example: A violin with a bass bar crack, or replacing a bass bar (for whatever reason). This is a job that would have easily taken me many hours in the past, but that I can now complete in an hour or two. If I w
  5. I was curious how the fine folks here generally charge for their repair/restoration work. We have a set hourly charge, but it seems that it is rarely applied, and the charge tends to be for the job. For example, there is a flat fee for removing a violin top, wether it takes 5 minutes or an hour. (You should see what we charge to put it back on! ) I suppose that we actually do a combination of the two in some form. Do others run a strictly by the hour fee structure or a strictly by the job fee structure? Just curious. Thanks.
  6. Oh Boy! Professor Lyndon is back in class! Everybody sit down, shut up, and let the learning begin.
  7. What's a "store"? I buy everything with my computer.
  8. The income for a violin maker is essentially what they can get for their violins and how many they can sell. The best asset a new violin maker can have is a wealthy spouse, or a nice pension. The income of a shop employee varies a great deal ,depending on experience, the location of the shop, the level of instruments, etc. My feeling is that any job in any shop is a good start for one that wants to make a living in this field. Violin makers often have to scale back their production for many years as they build their reputation and put food in their belly. I think that the median incom
  9. Hmmm. I like this notion. The idea that the c bouts were let in to stiffen the body never really rang true to me. I've seen alot of mortises that have not fit at all, or at least enough to stiffen anything, but would certainly aid in preventing the lining from springing away from the rib.
  10. I have tried many methods for clamping an f-hole wing crack. I have a clamp that I a pretty pleased with, but not completely. Any one care to share some methods/clamps/techniques for clamping these cracks? I seem to recall an article in the Strad (?) about an English tool maker, and he had designed a very elegant clamp. Don't know who or when. I would love to see it again. Thanks!
  11. I believe this is an authentic story. Paypal actually states in it's customer service agreement that counterfeit items will not be returned and will be destroyed. What a brilliant policy!
  12. Thanks! Caution has been noted, and Timberwood has been called.
  13. Hi all, I was wondering if anyone knew of a domestic (U.S.) source for the cremona books portfolios. I've gone to their website, and the shipping is over twice as much as the price of the product itself. Any other leads? I'm specifically interested in the Santo Serafino 1740 portfolio. Thanks!
  14. Thanks! That is good info. I haven't had time to really soak it in, but at first blush it makes sense.
  15. I have seen a few violins with this effect, and it is generally on lower end instruments and not at all attractive,IMO. The effect I'm calling harlequin is when a top is viewed straight on one side appears dark and the other light. As you angle the top the sides reverse (dark to light, light to dark). In extreme cases it can be quite jarring. This maybe a simple question, but I was wondering what caused this. I thought it was from poorly cut wood, or flipping one of the side of the spruce before joining. I do see some of this on regular spruce, but no where near as pronounced as on the
  16. AND I ordered the bits yesterday and just received them in the mail today! Regular shipping. So that's good.
  17. A perfect fit is best. I use a disposable emory board cut to fit the channel to open it up as needed. This is the tool I made for the job. Like I said, It's the first time I've done it this way, so I expect some modifications will be necessary. We will see.
  18. Yes. I went through my purfling stash and got three bits that matched the majority of what I use. The bit are 0.1mm smaller then the purfling. I figure that after I mill the channel and prep the purfling the fit should be just right. Better too tight then too loose.
  19. I went with Kodiak Cutting Tools. The price seemed very good, and they had a huge selection of sizes. I got two each of 1.0mm, 1.2mm, and 1.3mm. But there were many sizes in between those. This is my first time not hand cutting my channel, so I'll let you know how it goes.
  20. That should do it! Thanks, Oded.
  21. Hello all, Does anyone have a good source for up-spiral purfling bits for milling the channel? I've reached the end of the internet, and still no luck. (btw, the end of the internet is a sad and lonely place. ) Thanks!
  22. Jacob, just how is it that you know me (a total stranger) to be an arrogant bungler? And when have I claimed to have "definitive wisdom"? And why does it always come to name calling? What is wrong with dissention and difference. Can we not articulate our thoughts and opinions without resorting to throwing around unfounded accusations at strangers on the other side of the world? I wonder.