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Everything posted by arglebargle

  1. I mean, off the top of my head, the only animal product I use is the glue, and the glue used to make the purfling I use. So big f***ing deal? He just used different glue? I haven't used gut, or gut core, strings in a long time, if ever. As far as the horse hair goes, synthetic hair has been around for ages, and is roundly panned as an inferior product. So...congrats?
  2. "This will be music to the ears of so many violinists who have longed for a high-quality instrument that is free from animal products," said the charity's Ericka Durgahee. So many...I find that hard to believe. A solution in search of a problem.
  3. Yeah."My luthier" should be able to meet your needs and have the connections to get them. Ask your luthier?
  4. Not sure if you are being deliberately disagreeable, but on the same note, I would be interested to hear the takeaways from the many many many hours of you "teaching" violin making online or in person. Are you the only qualified pedagogue allowed to post opinions about techniques and theories online? Is this group of violin makers beneath you? If you are not being deliberately disagreeable, I would also be interested.
  5. No, they work on spruce and maple. I just don't like the feel and the result. Much better outcome with my usual scrapers. An un-bendable scraper has its place, but not so much on an arched top and back. In my opinion.
  6. I have found these to be terrible on spruce and maple, but absolute perfection on ebony.
  7. This is one of the reasons peg heads are "flat". Much easier to grip and turn the peg with the thumb and forefinger while the other three help brace the scroll area. This assumes the instrument has a well fit and functioning set of pegs.
  8. I just got an email advertising Dimitry Gindins new book of modern Italian violin makers. Two volumes, lots of big names, 700 pages, 500 instruments, etc. Looks great! The cost for the standard issue, pre-order, is $1648 (1425 euro). Why? Does anyone know the reason these portfolio books are so expensive? Brian Derber's very comprehensive, heavily illustrated violin making book is around $300. Bruce Babbit's Markneukirchen book was very reasonable. Anyone know why these (generally) European portfolio books are so pricey?
  9. I know you didn't ask me, but one aspect of professional work is the ability to produce a deliberate and purposeful product. Put another way, the ability to produce an instrument without being at the mercy of mistakes made by poor technique or sloppy craftsmanship. I just had in my shop a violin made by a local violin maker. He has made dozens of instruments, sold many of them, and even endeavoured to teach a violin making class. This violin, which he sold, had a neck so poorly set that it was essentially unplayable, way off center, tilted the wrong way, and with a projection around 22mm. This is the way he made it and sold it. Every instrument of his I have seen over the years has had something wrong with it. Some not as basically flawed as this, but all with some clear unintentional mistake either aesthetic or mechanical. This is not professional work, even though he thinks the world of his instruments.
  10. Just order one from Lie-Nielsen. I have a toothed blade for that plane from them, so I know it can be done. Don't see it on the website, so give them a call.
  11. Would you ever want to make a black violin if not requested? If not, then I wouldn't make one. It's a lot of effort to make something that you wouldn't put your name to. I would go with Rue's idea. Buy a violin in the white, and make it black.
  12. Just curious, how does clamping the bridge in a vise do you any good? That's not how bridges function at all. What possible information could you get that is relevant to the actual function of a bridge? Serious question.
  13. arglebargle


    I've said this before, but I think the best way to make your first violin is to make 3 at the same time. That's three molds, three rib garlands, three joined tops and back, etc. You will more quickly develop the muscle memory (or start to) and get a clearer idea of what the hell you are doing. "But I don't want to make the same mistakes three times." You won't. You will make different mistakes on three different instruments, which you would have done anyway if you made three one at a time. Now you've just gotten it out of the way! 3 at the same time.
  14. arglebargle


    RobertL, when are you going to stop navel-gazing and actually put a tool to a piece of wood? Once that happens things will become much clearer, or not. So far just a bunch of drawings. You seem to be falling into the same trap a lot of first time makers do, over-thinking, over-planning, and trying to make your first attempt perfect. Just start carving already.
  15. Ha! In the states these are called disco balls, but I like your wording.
  16. From what I can see the wood from home depot would be more expensive than other sources specializing in tonewood.
  17. Not an endorsement, but quickly glancing at my Metropolitan Music catalog, one can buy a spruce top for as little as $15, a plain maple back for $20 (ribs included), and a neck block for as little as $9. So for as little as $44 (plus shipping) you can get all the wood you need, cut specifically for violin making. I'm sure other suppliers have similar prices. So I would stay away from "home depot" and just buy the wood from a known supplier.
  18. 15.5 is on the low side of normal in my mind. Still acceptable.
  19. I have a few of jars of unknown origin that I've used for a loooong time. Ocher, yellow, burnt sienna, "brown", I really don't know exactly what they are, but when mixed right they give me the look of a filthy, old violin interior. A slightly different mix gives the bridge an aged look as well. Hans Nebel threw in a little of the contents of a vacuum cleaner bag, if I recall correctly.
  20. This is an expensive sport. Both from the consumers end and the makers end. You will spend money, and a lot of it if you pursue this to any substantial degree. Spend wisely. With all due respect to Andreas P, one of the items I would encourage you to buy is a bending iron. At around $150-200, they are not, in the long run, a bad investment or terribly expensive. I used the standard "starter" iron for many, many instruments. It was perfectly fine. While mould bending ribs is a perfectly reasonable way to get the job done, it is not the standard, if that matters. And besides, using a bending iron is A LOT OF FUN! Go for it.
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