arglebargle

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About arglebargle

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  1. The neck joint should be strong enough with no mechanical assistance, bolts, screws, dowels and the like. Make sure the mortise is deep enough, and every surface that should touch does, and you should be set. And good fresh hot hide glue.
  2. Too late for you now, but I always carve the pegbox first. With the blocked squared remove the wood on the face of the pegbox, draw your desired design, and go to town. I find that this makes the work go much faster, as you can clamp the block more aggressively and really go at the pegbox without any worry of damaging the beautiful scroll you just spent hours carving. No worry of blowing out the pegbox walls either. Not sure if this would address your concerns, but there you go.
  3. Yes, he's asking us not to re-graduate.
  4. I just took the top off a Charles Ehricke violin (Albany, 1934 #50) to start on a button repair and found an interesting inscription on the top and back. Goes to show that messing with other peoples violins was a common enough practice way back then to merit a warning. Alright Mr. Ehricke. I won't scrape your violin, but I will fix your broken button.
  5. Um, the best cello case ever made? Sure, it doesn't have wheels. And the handle tends to fall off. And it's a bit heavy. But by god, I would take a million of these cases compared to the crap we have now. This beast got me through high school, college, and is still going strong today. You know, in a community filled with brilliant structural engineers and creative thinkers why a workable, affordable cello case hasn't been made is beyond me.
  6. arglebargle

    Hunter

    Hunter, you have never played the violin before? Yes? If that is the case I might recommend renting one first. The reason being you have no idea what you are listening for when you first start, much less what feels good to you. Think of it like buying a car without knowing how to drive. You can always buy an instrument later, and you will have a better understanding of what you like and don't and what works for you.
  7. I might suggest, respectfully, that you are being a bit obsessive. The kind of dust production you are describing seems very standard, if not ideal. We work with wood. There will be wood dust. I may be wrong, but I find it hard to picture producing enough dust with your hand tools to create a health hazard. As far as varnishing goes, I mitigate the effect of dust in my (relatively) small shop by cleaning at night, setting up everything I will need for varnishing, and leaving. Then first thing in the morning, before I touch one f**king thing, I varnish. Not a lot of dust.
  8. Nope. Just a case of three people typing around the same time. Nothing sneaky or underhanded going on.
  9. I have to respectfully disagree. Yes, the post didn't cause the crack (an errant cello case did) and yes, the crack does not run through the exact location of the post, but I would call this a sound post crack (among other things) any day of the week. Even though the post does not sit directly on the crack, the post would certainly stress the crack more than if it were located somewhere else.
  10. Alright, sorry. Consider it a hypothetical question with a visual aid. Any answers provided here are moot and only serve my curiosity as the decision on how to proceed with the cello will be made regardless of any discussions here. Perhaps the better question is not the cost of a S.P. patch in this instance, but an estimate for the entirety of the thing. There are clearly many other aspects to this and maybe it is unreasonable to single out the patch outside of the rest of the work. Again, assuming that the owner insists on doing the work (not the case here) and not replacing the top/ trashing the cello. Never meant for it to get contentious, just asked a question.
  11. Just to be clear: I never said it was an "abnormally problematic" repair. However, it is certainly a major restoration that requires a high level of skill to execute correctly. The maker is alive and active, aware of the situation, and involved. Most likely not going to repair the damage. Perhaps a new top, perhaps a new instrument, maybe neither. The original question was only about the rate of a sound post patch for damage like this, not a simple crack, and assuming that the owner insists on having the work done, regardless of cost. Not the case here, but assuming it was.
  12. I'll see if I can get permission to post pictures.