arglebargle

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About arglebargle

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  1. Got it. I assume you are not a fan of the one piece inserts that are set in both the neck and heel.
  2. Oh my! Do you mean the "pins" inserted into the heel? Would you care to expand on this? Thanks!
  3. In the process of doing a scroll graft on a cello, new instrument, and using this for the first time. An Iwasaki rasp. Not necessarily from Woodcraft, and mine is the fine cut, but wow. I've done many scroll grafts and these work really well and are making quick work of the process. Much better than a regular rasp. Pick one up if you have this job in your future.
  4. Since this came up again, I thought I'd mention this, "stick-fast". I use the medium and I've found it to be the best brand I've used. The loctite mentioned above is also very good. I don't know why, but this stuff just seems to work better than most. It stores really well, and I have virtually no issues with clogging or build-up. I'm on my second bottle in 4 years, and only because the first became too thick. I still have that one and it still works great. I like it.
  5. I don't know about anyone else, but I was excited about the "Tales from the loft- the hunters" entry. Disappointed it was spam.
  6. I am currently making two cellos, same model, arching, etc. different woods. One is standard maple (european) and the other is pear. I am excited to hear the difference in sound and I will report back when done.
  7. Yes this. Depending on what you paid, I would be happy with 3 big, safe workable pieces and ribs rather than 5 pieces right on the edge. Unless you are really skilled at re-sawing, which I am not.
  8. In fact, if it was the case you describe, than wouldn't this would be the more effective design, an older baroque bridge?
  9. So the image you presented is just your speculation of how a bridge vibrates? I don't see the bridge as funnel shaped at all, or any aspect of it either. The "heart" is the consequence of the aesthetic sensibilities of the time, not some kind of vibration-directing device.
  10. How do you measure the waves traveling through the bridge? Based on your drawing it seems like the A and D string waves would hit the upper part of the heart and bounce back, barely reaching the feet. My understanding is that the vibrations moving through the bridge are a lot more complex than what you illustrated. If the heart was upside down, would the sound be effected? What if it was a circle? Honest questions.
  11. The most important things on a totally electric violin (not acoustic with a pickup on it) is the set-up and the amp. Shape doesn't really matter. You need the neck to be comfortable (something lacking in most low end elec. violins I've seen), the string length to be correct, and the bridge/nut/tailpiece/saddle to be well made and installed. After that it is all about what you use to get the sound out of it, mainly the amplifier. You are going to pay for a good neck/fingerboard and set-up, so focus on those aspects.