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About arglebargle

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  1. Fitting New Fingerboards to Old (Not new) Violins

    Here are some pictures. These, or something similar. The thicker the better. Squared up, you can see how you can adjust the cutting angle to get your "flare". Draw the board against the cutting surface, on either side. A nice flat bench helps. The resulting shavings.
  2. Fitting New Fingerboards to Old (Not new) Violins

    Yes. And using the bench vise, so assuming your bench is relatively flat, you are drawing the f.b. over a flat surface against a square (if you want) cutting surface. I'll post pictures if I find the time. Again, not for removing a lot of wood, but for finessing the final few mm into place.
  3. Fitting New Fingerboards to Old (Not new) Violins

    One thing that can be really useful in getting to the correct width at the neck heel (and any where else) is using a scraper clamped to the bench. I put it in the bench vise, using a thick scraper, and draw the board along the scraper. You can adjust the angle of the cut by moving the scraper, and it is a much more forgiving/slow process.
  4. PegHeds....

    Why would you give this person a penny of your money?
  5. Minimum top thickness at sound post

    I don't graduate the soundpost area at all.
  6. Bonmusica Shoulder Rest?

    Chinrests are very easy to take on and off. Buy a chinrest "tool", or make one, and figure it out. Or ask someone to show you. You can do it!
  7. Minimum size plane for making centre joints

    It's important to keep in mind your ultimate goal: flat, straight, and square and a perfect joint. With the goal in mind any number of planes can work. I use a jack plane and a block plane. The combination of both make the job easier, but I could do it using either one. I've even used a scraper to help the job along. Aside from the planes, an accurate square and straight edge are essential. I find that a dark room and a well directed bright light is much more useful than chalk, but in the end, whatever gets you the best results.
  8. Thinning varnish

    I guess it depends on how much time passes between varnishing. I bought a food vacuum sealer and if I am not going to use the stuff in the near future, I seal it in the vacuum bag and keep it in the fridge (or freezer). I had some success adding turps to the top (the film) and letting it sit for a few days, then gentle heat it.
  9. Thinning varnish

    Morgana, please, go on. "Disgusting vile filth attacks" aside, you have clearly come here to learn and help. The more you type, the better we can understand just what it is you have to offer. Please, let your wisdom flow. The floor is yours.
  10. The Manual of Violin Making by Brian Derber

    Since this popped up again, let me just add a few more thoughts. After having this for almost a month I have found that I reference it often. Not necessarily for instructions, but rather for a different perspective on how to go about tasks that I have done for years. It is such a thorough work that even the smallest details are given ample time and thought. The methods he uses for certain jobs (finishing the outline for example) are not something that I feel the need to try, but the perspective is very much appreciated. It is very much Brian Derber's method for making a violin, and that is not a bad thing. That being said, he does regularly go into different methods to achieve the same end, but the primary instruction is his method (and by extension, I assume the Chicago school's). Again, it is very much worth the money, and I can't imagine anyone with a serious interest in this not being happy with the purchase.
  11. Joe Robson's Balsam Ground 3

    Balsam Ground. As for what in it, I assume it's balsam and ground.
  12. I took a photograph of a scroll - Life Changing

    you son of a b**ch. How dare you have an aesthetic opinion that doesn't conform with mine!
  13. Interesting violin on my bench

    Looks like regular, cracked, purfling to me. Three layers.
  14. Perpendicular does not exist on violin tops...

    A class act, as always.