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Posts posted by luthier

  1. If you are Talking about what appears to be the back separating from the end block, it definitely needs to be repaired in short order. I would take the tension off the strings immediately, until you can get it to a luthier. It's not an expensive repair (20-50 bucks), and left unattended will cause distortion of the ribs, and continue to separate. To check and see if it actually a separation, try to gently insert something like a single edge razor blade in the opening. It will go in if the seam is open.  

  2. 13 minutes ago, JohnCockburn said:

    You can easily lower the fb projection by a couple of mm or so by loosening the front seam all the way round (including the corner blocks, but excluding the upper and lower blocks), then pushing the neck down to give the required projection, while fitting a few closing clamps in place to hold the front in the new position. Then fit the rest of the closing clamps and reglue the front seam  as normal. You should double check that the projection is where you want it before committing yourself to gluing.

    Using this method works fine for a neck lift, but to lower projection, one would have to shave a little off the neck mortise in the top. The easiest way would be to remove the top, get the projection right and glue it back on.

  3. For a quick fix, I soak the bridge just a few minutes in a bowl of water. Then heat a skillet on low, lay the bridge convex side down, and use some utensil to press down flat, take it out when it stops steaming. Repeat until the bridge is flat. Usually a max of 3 times does the trick.

  4. It looks to me to be a 1:25 taper on the original peg. There are still violin reamers around with that taper, though hard to find. I've been looking for one myself for quite some time. There is nothing wrong with reaming the holes with a 1:30 reamer and putting bushings in, re-drilling and reaming. There are no consequences as to the value,  and you'll have a violin that is much easier to tune, and will stay in tune, given the job is done right. (A 1:20 taper was used from the 1500's to sometime in the late 1700's(?), when the norm became 1:25.) Going that route would be the best bet. If there are any mechanical pegs around with a 1:25 taper, they are still going to be fitted to the holes, meaning bushed and reamed. The mechanical tuners are very easy to tune with. The cheapest way to go would be finding a luthier who has a 1:25 reamer, and have new pegs fitted. 

  5. 6 hours ago, Bill Yacey said:

    How beautiful an instrument looks to the beholder doesn't necessarily correlate with quality workmanship in construction. All the parts used in a conventional Italian model instrument serve a purpose.

    I was referring to the tonal beauty.

  6. How violins are built can be a starting point for determining where or in what region it originated, and to some limited extent the quality. No upper corner blocks can indicate the method used in construction, but is no indication of the violin being "decent" or not. As the saying goes, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

  7. Is the cello new, or just new to you?  If you find a luthier who will fix it for 40 bucks, run away as fast as you can. To do the job right, it will cost a few hundred dollars. I'm having trouble seeing the repair to the scroll. The cello does look nice, but also hard to tell from your pictures if it is worth the cost of the repair.

  8. bump... The violin could date back to the 1700's, possibly of Germanic origins. The number below the button is likely an inventory number, not a date. It is unique, to say the least. What is the LOB? Hopefully someone who is more knowledgeable will respond. 

  9. What about cleaning the inside of a violin by a known maker from about 250 years ago? Should one try to remove some of the caked on grunge? It's definitely not original, but does testify to it's age. What would be ethical here?

  10. Yes, violins by E. H. Roth had this type of saddle, but I don't recall the dates. Early ones and later ones didn't. I know that in the 60's  this type of saddle was used. Other makes of violins also had it as well. It may be a German/Czech sort of thing.

  11. On a side note, there are many cheap Chinese paint brushes and expensive varnish brushes with a 1:30 taper. I use them to work in spiral bushings (candle wax applied to the handle).  Looks like you are using one in the endpin hole.




  12. Does anyone have any information on this maker? I have one of his violins dated 1980, and there is currently one for sale on the internet dated 1930. He isn't listed in Jalovec. The name is German. (I don't know how to place the umlaut over the u on my keyboard). 

    The label reads:   Alexander Grune


                                    fecit ano 1980

    the add I had a link to previously has been deleted, probably sold...edited 4/6/19