luthier

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About luthier

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  • Birthday 06/26/1949

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  1. It could be rosin that's tacky, unlikely soft shellac. Try cleaning it.
  2. Very nice! Too good to be from Schoenbach. I would be looking to France as a possible origin. I can't help out with the stamp, though.
  3. Looks to be Markneukirchen/Schoenbach Germany, mid to late 1800's.
  4. If you are Talking about what appears to be the back separating from the end block, it definitely needs to be repaired in short order. I would take the tension off the strings immediately, until you can get it to a luthier. It's not an expensive repair (20-50 bucks), and left unattended will cause distortion of the ribs, and continue to separate. To check and see if it actually a separation, try to gently insert something like a single edge razor blade in the opening. It will go in if the seam is open.
  5. Using this method works fine for a neck lift, but to lower projection, one would have to shave a little off the neck mortise in the top. The easiest way would be to remove the top, get the projection right and glue it back on.
  6. For a quick fix, I soak the bridge just a few minutes in a bowl of water. Then heat a skillet on low, lay the bridge convex side down, and use some utensil to press down flat, take it out when it stops steaming. Repeat until the bridge is flat. Usually a max of 3 times does the trick.
  7. It looks to me to be a 1:25 taper on the original peg. There are still violin reamers around with that taper, though hard to find. I've been looking for one myself for quite some time. There is nothing wrong with reaming the holes with a 1:30 reamer and putting bushings in, re-drilling and reaming. There are no consequences as to the value, and you'll have a violin that is much easier to tune, and will stay in tune, given the job is done right. (A 1:20 taper was used from the 1500's to sometime in the late 1700's(?), when the norm became 1:25.) Going that route would be the best bet. If there are any mechanical pegs around with a 1:25 taper, they are still going to be fitted to the holes, meaning bushed and reamed. The mechanical tuners are very easy to tune with. The cheapest way to go would be finding a luthier who has a 1:25 reamer, and have new pegs fitted.
  8. I was referring to the tonal beauty.
  9. How violins are built can be a starting point for determining where or in what region it originated, and to some limited extent the quality. No upper corner blocks can indicate the method used in construction, but is no indication of the violin being "decent" or not. As the saying goes, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
  10. According to Rene Vannes, Dictionnaire Universel des Luthiers, and other sources, including Tarisio and Amati auction houses, Jules Remy branded the inside of his violins in a triangle, In Urbe Cremoniae Remy. I'll leave it at that.
  11. The maker is Jules Remy. A search on the web will give you a better idea of his work, though limited in scope.
  12. luthier

    Yellows

    What does one use as a solvent with Tartrazine Lake? Alcohol?
  13. Is the cello new, or just new to you? If you find a luthier who will fix it for 40 bucks, run away as fast as you can. To do the job right, it will cost a few hundred dollars. I'm having trouble seeing the repair to the scroll. The cello does look nice, but also hard to tell from your pictures if it is worth the cost of the repair.
  14. bump... The violin could date back to the 1700's, possibly of Germanic origins. The number below the button is likely an inventory number, not a date. It is unique, to say the least. What is the LOB? Hopefully someone who is more knowledgeable will respond.
  15. What about cleaning the inside of a violin by a known maker from about 250 years ago? Should one try to remove some of the caked on grunge? It's definitely not original, but does testify to it's age. What would be ethical here?