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Mat Roop

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Everything posted by Mat Roop

  1. Here is the full video ... bass bar at about 3:56 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SvfNhMlnBE
  2. Philip... you are the wise one... There is a saying that there are 2 types of people you should never argue with... 1- those who don't know what they are talking about and 2- those who do know what they are talking about So I guess its best to just listen to all opinions but draw your own conclusion!
  3. Thanks Doug... I had forgotten about that thread... enjoyed reading it again!...I guess in the end it is a judgement call depending on the circumstances. I have glued some without cleaning where the crack has "appeared" to be reasonably clean on the assumption it is better to get the glue in before anything else.... so far so good! ....Mat
  4. Thanks Doug... so cleaning is a careful superficial wipe cleaning of the area around the crack.... makes sense. But some of these inaccessible cracks are old and dirt has migrated into the crack... not to mention it may have been polished/wiped previously with some polish/ cleaner having migrated into the crack. Do you flush the crack in any way and if so how and what solution? ... ie what do you do to create a reasonable expectation that the glue will hold. ... Thanks, Mat
  5. A comment on a previous thread & something I've often thought about... before glueing a crack in a top or wherever, of course we should clean the crack first... but what if it is not fully accessible or when the top will not be removed? Some of old granpa's fiddles are incredibly dirty and if there is a crack that is not fully accessible, like a saddle crack, it would make sense to glue first before cleaning, otherwise dirt will get washed into the crack and be detrimental. Even on newer violins that appear to be clean, they may have been polished and cleaning will dissolve some of the polish & wash it into the crack. Thoughts??
  6. Agree, but do press some thin hot hide glue into the split with the pressure of a rubber tipped syringe ... discussed in a previous thread. ... and monitor. ... Page 5 Dec 11
  7. Canada and the UK have signed a deal ... not sure what the details are. https://www.international.gc.ca/trade-commerce/trade-agreements-accords-commerciaux/agr-acc/cuktca-acccru/economic_impact_assessment-evaluation_impact_economique.aspx?lang=eng
  8. Of course you have the skills... you just don't realize it! First, If the soundpost falls, It likely was not set properly, and should be redone in any case. If you do not have the resources to have a new post set, you can easily reset the existing one. Before you do anything, mark the post position.... Mark the location of the bottom of the post with a pencil dot beside the post inside on the back. Use a split card to note the location of the top of the post.. ie take a business card cut it lengthwise about 2/3 of the length. Place the right side part of the card inside the violin thru the f-hole butting up against the post and draw a pencil line on the card along the f-hole and inner notch... That marks the location of the post side to side. Move the split card so that the cut edge is against the front of the post and draw a line on the card along the f-hole and inner notch... this marks the position of the post lengthwise. Make a post setting tool from a piece of 16 gage wire(like coat hanger wire) grind ( or hammer) one end flat and razor thin with a point. Curl the other end to create a sort of handle. Stab the post in the middle...noting correct orientation of graining and angles of the post ends. Bend the wire to suit to get the post to its position . Place post bottom at your mark and move the post top to where it was using the split card as your guide. Now that you have mastered this, you can cut and make a new post if the old one was not properly fit. Welcome to the addiction of fiddle fixing... Its a life long learn! ... And read this starting on Pg 14 for sound posts... http://www.darntonviolins.com/violinmagazine/book/setup.pdf Cheers... Mat
  9. So, has anyone published such a check list of features and/ or documented a fairly thorough ID process... all in one place???
  10. Curious... why are you afraid of removing all the strings and working without interference?? I
  11. These folks would spend hours to get their hands on such a magnificent instrument!
  12. How about a violin peg with oversized shaft... Thick end untrimmed at the collar is 10mm and small end 8.6mm. Got them here... https://counterpointmusic.ca Good luck! ... Mat Ps...For larger holes I also use spiral bushings made of mulberry paper and glue with hot hide glue.
  13. Here is my KISS principle post trimmer... works like a charm. The sandpaper lays in the slot to hold the post from spinning. as I trim the ends I record the angles Cheers, Mat
  14. Maybe its older but sounds so sad that nobody has wanted to play it. Cheers.. Mat
  15. Yes... the glue is contained mostly within the rubber tubing area and it slides easily along the crack... but it is a careful balance between downward pressure of the tubing the end of the syringe against the violin finish and the pressure of forcing glue out of the syringe. I heat the syringe with the hot water from the bath, then draw in the glue and apply to the preheated crack.
  16. Thanks David... you explain better than I! If you know which issue of the Strad your article is in... I'd love to read it (I have a bunch of old issues). I have, for a long time, thought about the concept that is used to fill stone chips in windshields... easy enough to use on an opened violin, but how to use it on an assembled instrument? Guess I'm not inventive enough.
  17. So here is a simple one that works pretty good... latex tubing in the end of a standard syringe... fill with hot glue press down gently to seal around the edges and with the plunger force glue into cracks. Had occasion to use it again this morning ... worked like a charm and thought I would share... Cheers, Mat
  18. Hi Davide... curious about why you make tall saddles? Do you adhere to the "standard" 158 degree string angle over the bridge?
  19. Hi Philip, could you also take a closeup pic of the fingergrip winding at the forward end from the hair side of the stick...I'm interested to see the the finish of the ending of the silver wire. Looking forward to more pics!... Mat
  20. Ok... so what is the ideal saddle shape?... assuming a standard strad style arching height? I've never really gave it much thought, but my habit has been : From the end view of the saddle I have always made the peak at the center of the saddle body .... or should it be forward or rearward?... by how much? As far as the curve that the tailwire follows, is concerned, I match the saddle to the edge of the top and then flow it smoothly to the peak, and pointing a touch above the line of the after length strings Thoughts?? ... Cheers, Mat PS... re glueing saddles... clean close fit & glue with hand pressure 1 minute... no preheat
  21. I just hang a standard 12" desk fan set at high speed in the shop window opening blowing outward. This prevents fumes from entering the rest of the house. ... Might be a problem in winter at -20 deg F Cheers... Mat
  22. http://darntonviolins.com/personal-billboard-some-labels-are-better-than/
  23. So I posed my earlier question to Optima with the following response.... cheers, Mat Dear Mat, well, the diameter has an effect for the tension and the flexibility of the strings. So thinner strings are easier to play, but are a bit warmer and not so loud. Thicker strings need a bit more power, but sound louder and more brilliant. Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Sincerely André Schneider Vice President
  24. I've only stripped a violin once 20 years ago... never again!... and I would never use a scraper to clean it up... Violin wood esp top plates is not smooth, and it is essential that the patina of the wood remain intact if you don't want a total disaster. Cheers... Mat
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