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Mat Roop

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Everything posted by Mat Roop

  1. This stuff (the wood version) works great... shape it, carve it, sand it, stain it and finish it! ... key is to rub the uncured material onto the surface to be glued so that the roughly shaped uncured replacement piece sticks well. https://www.brodi.com/brofix-epoxy-putty-repair-stick
  2. 1- remove the wedge & do a neck lift... https://trianglestrings.com/raisingtheprojection/ 2-the scratched cross... Although I don't do it for many reasons, It is my understanding that making a pin prick in the varnish to mark the bridge is acceptable in some circles. Are you sure the cross was not there before and you just did not notice it?
  3. maybe you can suck the alcohol out using a closed vacuum system... no heat to set off a "splosion"
  4. Depends on your definition of "worth" and "restoration". A simple rehair for $60 will make it playable then you can test it for performance and go from there. I am not into attributions, but my guess is it is a basic mass produced bow. ....check the dimensions... maybe it's a viola bow? Looks like the bore for the screw is worn. Cheers... Mat
  5. Individual hairs in a hank are not the same diameter... therefore a hank of thin hair requires many more hairs than a hank of thick hairs.... so counting hairs is futile.
  6. Well... I would try to convince ( this always works!) the bow's owner to fit a new plate and rehair the bow... my cost would be in the order of $110... but... I would do whatever the customer wants, and document the consequences (if any)... its their bow, and their money.
  7. I leave mine on as long as I am working with glue.. and it holds the temp right on. Mind you I installed a thermometer thru the lid into the water so that I can keep an eye on the temperature just by looking... otherwise you would have to proactively take temp readings. Cheers, Mat
  8. I just use a simple hot pot and set my glue pot into the water... works great. Had to adjust the T-stat though ...to lower the temp range. https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/multipot-multi-cooker-125-lqt-mp2013-red-black/6000201461570?utm_medium=paid_search&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=always_on&cmpid=SEM_CA_71_S0MY02HA7C_71700000053641827_58700005332107831&utm_id=SEM_CA_71_S0MY02HA7C_71700000053641827_58700005332107831&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwktKFBhCkARIsAJeDT0iv4mIeaZBvVivQM_f7K49IN7yR0EI2fIyVg60urzgrEora2WmefQEaAnlSEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
  9. David, with your experimentation...have you drawn any general tonal/ playability conclusions from changing the saddle height? Thanks for sharing!... Mat
  10. First things first... have the violin properly set up ....by a professional. There are likely easy solutions to your problem. After all else fails then maybe look at "doohickeys" ... Mat
  11. Thanks Mark... appreciate your thoughts! I like the wood filler idea... do you use that to make a pattern & mold then carve the ebony to match, or trim, stain & leave the filler permanently? Thanks!... Mat
  12. Just thinking about something I've never consciously thought about... When you fit a chinrest... 1-do you ajust the angle of the base of the CR to match the edge scoop of the instrument? or do you just rely on the cork liner to compensate? 2-do you ajust the angle of the clamp? .. ie the part that fits into the chinrest.. should it match the angle of the scoop where the chinrest sits? 3- then of course is the issue of the angle of the hole for the clamp There are many opinions as to whether chin rests improve or impair the sound quality of the instrument & does the fit affect that? Cheers, Mat
  13. I have never bought violins or bows on line... but... I do visit antique shops... and never pay the asking...amazingly every now and then there is a deal. Travelling in PEI I bargained a $10 bow down to $7... I did not have my spectacles with me it was dark in the shop and when I got outside.... A nice Tourte copy with silver fittings... sold it for $700 after a cleanup and rehair. In Florida I picked up a John Juzek viola for $75 ....well used and abused... Restored it and 3 years later sold it for $1100. It's like panning for gold... only more comfortable
  14. Just feel bad my posting info about Optima is in the thread celebrating Dominant's 50th b'day
  15. Hey Diddle Diddle.... love that Fiddle book! The H-A was my first book about fiddles and loved the read. Sure, it is way outdated, but I did not know that then, and it did inspire me to keep digging deeper.... Been a lot of fun over the years!
  16. so for the Optima Lenzner e-strings, I posed the question of why steel vs premium steel vs brassed vs gold directly to Optima..their answer... For good to excellent players the best option is the 24K Gold strings since the strings are a bit heavier, but the sound is warm and clear at the same time. Gold coated strings don’t rust and dirt doesn’t stick to them which make them very durable. The Steel option carries the most traditional sound and its been produced the same way for over 100 years, so if a player wants a traditional sounding string then Steel is the option. They tend to get dark spots with time and usage, which is a normal thing. Premium Steel keeps the quality of traditional Steel strings but it carries a clear sounding resonance. The Brassed strings have a very thin coat of brass over Steel which curiously enough makes it sound richer than the traditional Steel and Premium Steel. The brass color changes to black with use and some people don’t like that, but they’re extremely popular in Japan for example. All varieties com in gauges .024-.028 and in all different lengths, so they can be set onto violins ranging between 4/4 to 1/16 scales. FYI... Cheers, Mat
  17. Thanks Rue... got quite the chuckle out of your choice of words...your conclusion is spot on! ....it had to be made prior to when you got it... otherwise you could not have gotten it! ... tee hee!
  18. I have an old gramaphone from the '40s ... no electrical, just physical...the speaker cone is a hard mounted pyramidal inflexible wood box. The bottom of about 12"x12" is fully open in vertical plane at the cabinet front. The only volume control is the opening & closing of the cabinet doors... works amazingly well!
  19. Gerard.... keep in mind that capabilities is just a part of making a violin. Knowledge of what to do with the capabilities is equally important. When you watch great videos like those of Davide Sora, you see his exquisite capability, but you do not necessarily see the knowledge behind his master strokes. Every minute aspect of the violin has its secrets .... secrets that are revealed only when you study, ask and learn from the experts. Although some of the detail may seem unimportant, but I can assure you it is important. So, when you set out to make your next violin, take your time and study every step in absolute detail and make every step as perfect as possible... no shortcuts or "good enough". Also, be aware that there is a lot of bad information on the web... take time to sort out what is professional level and what is not. Good luck, keep us posted and ask, ask ask! Happy Easter!... Mat
  20. yes, and its also possible to split the top in the fridge
  21. David is right... all depends on where & how data is collected... We use the # of known active cases compared to total population by county. Our area has 151 active cases per 123,000. pop. or ... 1.2%... higher than we would like. we were at 50 cases just a week ago. I applaud our gov't for the " Draconian" lockdown... If it saves just one life... it is worth it. .....Cheers everyone!
  22. No offense here... I understand exactly what you are saying. I would love to get my life back by opening my shop to the public again... but I will not, until I get the vaccine. My adult children all work, and my bride (of 49 yrs) and I look after the grand kids while they are committed to work. If we catch the bug, the entire family will be legally mandated to isolate and that would be a major disaster including financially. Masks, sanitization and distancing is a religion for us. My shop is still busy, .. just all delivery & pickup is via curbside. Its a hassle , but it works. Stay safe everyone!
  23. this isthe concept of how to safely "un-stuck" pegs... no tapping , undue pressure or force. http://rezx.biz/photos/pegreleasebrochureweb.pdf ... shameless self promotion...
  24. I don't see a lot of broken bows... but with the crackline dramatically cross grain, are we sure it is a crack... maybe a wear mark of sorts from movement in a case against something? ... or maybe just a flaw in the wood?
  25. Well then.... Time to get trained!
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