Jump to content
Maestronet Forums

Mat Roop

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Mat Roop

  1. A challenge no doubt if you have not done this before....

    Yes glue one crack at a time, and I would start with the center seam. Use good fresh hide glue. The real key is bulding a mould or jig to hold the pieces so that the clamped dry test fit is perfect every time... be careful not to splinter or damage the split edges...then heat with a hair dryer, apply glue and clamp lightly.

    Good luck!... Mat

  2. Valid point Terry... but the colorful hisory that Matthew refers to is also valuable...I was kinda hoping there would be an accepted industry practice. In the case of opening up an instrument, perhaps signing your work in discreet areas and naming the work done, or as Matthew does singing the part.

    Personally, I am not a fan of labels...would a stamp or brand directly on the wood not serve the same purpose and be less prone to fraud?

    Cheers, Mat

  3. quote:

    Originally posted by:

    [q Does the bow stay straight (side to side) when you tension

    it?... It should, otherwise you have a poor

    quality/defective/poorly haired bow. post some actual pics if you

    can... cheers, Mat

    i dont understand the question ...


    Hold the bow at the frog end, hair below the stick & untensioned, and sight down the top length of the stick ... It should be straight. Begin to tension the bow, and if it begins to bow out either to the left or right, then you have a problem as I indicated earlier.

    Good luck!

  4. quote:

    Originally posted by:
    Allan Speers

    You see a lot of violins for sale that have label.

    Me too, Allan.... But I also see some with no labels! I think there is the theory of hucksters that no label is better than a cheap label... after all, how can you up the price if the label says Skylark, or Palatino?!

    And to extend the label question.... when you do repair on a violin, is it, or not , appropriate to add your own label...do you note what work was done?

  5. A normal violin bow is 29 1/4 inches long... including the screw button. If yours is not close to that, you have something else. The hair in a just slack state should be just touching or within 1/16 inch of the bow stick, if not, the camber of the bow has been lost and needs to be rebent. In normal playing tension, the hair should be about 1/8" to 1/4" off the bow stick, and this will depend on a players preference, and on the stiffness of the bowstick.

    Does the bow stay straight (side to side) when you tension it?... It should, otherwise you have a poor quality/defective/poorly haired bow.

    post some actual pics if you can... cheers, Mat

  6. quote:

    Originally posted by:

    Your being mislead!

    OK, I'll buy that possibility... but there appears to be two sides to this debate and which side is doing the misleading?? Who are the authorities in this matter... are there technical studies, papers or other proofs?? ... or is it all a matter of personal choice?... Mat

  7. quote:

    Originally posted by:

    I alway use Sowdens blue string brand(its used by many top shops and bowmakers),which incidently is mare hair not stallion. Its very carefully sorted.Fine in texture and much preferable to stallion hair from other suppliers ive tried occasionally. .

    I always thought... and still believe stallion hair is the premium product and preferred over mares hair... because the mares hair gets sprayed with urine causing it to become more brittle and browner in color.... and that is the stuff used in cheap factory bows.

  8. If top is off... check dimensions... if dimensions are reasonable and in good shape, I leave them as is and reglue. If the bar is way off and the top obviously off standard, and if its my violin I will regraduate the top and install new bar. If it is a client violin, I will discuss the options and consequences and let them decide. Usually they get it done only if the violin has sentimental value.

    I never remove the back.... just reglue.

    Cheers, Mat

  9. I understand the process of temperature shrink fitting... but the CO2 does work... so I would postulate that the drying effect of the CO2 is different.... and it is a common occurence in the dry winter climates for pegs to let loose, and in humid summer climates the pegs set in winter become jammed.... I'm still thinking...Mat

  10. quote:

    Originally posted by:

    I don't believe that cooling a 'hole' will make it bigger. It will shrink the wood, as you say, and make the hole smaller.


    Not sure I agree, Andrew... but Ive been wrong before... so its off to the workshop on the weekend for a test!

    Will advise! Cheers, Mat

  11. quote:

    Originally posted by:

    Very interesting. Did you devise that rig specifically for pegs, or did it have some other function in other work?

    I was using it originally as an easy propellant for airbrushing... but that was not a successful experiment on violins!... Cheers, Mat

  12. quote:

    Originally posted by:

    Originally posted by:

    ctviolin-I come close to absolutely despise your posts however I respect the experince behind them and tempered with the humour in them which I am becoming aware of, don't necessarily look forward to them but read when posted with thought.


    Sorry to hear of your troubles R..... CT is the spice of life that makes me smile!... and a great resource.

    Cheers, Mat

  13. Happens to the best of us!... I always rework the mortice when it is off spec... and I never reuse the wedge. I simply find it more satisfying to spend a little extra time to cut a well fitting wedge with the proper front to back tension....and Mom....I don't think your son is losing neurons... he is just focussed on his music. In the case of real talented kids, their artistic motivations often override their concern for material matters... so your son might just be a genius!

  14. Never tried using knees on tight pegs... but what works well for me is this... I have a carbon dioxide cylinder from a fire extinguisher and a pressure regulator and small hose... I blow CO2 gently into the peg box at the stuck point and usually in 10 minutes... viola! the peg is loose.... without any stress. CO2 gas is cold and very dry...and non toxic... it shrinks the wood making the peg smaller and the hole bigger.

  15. A tid bit of Canadian History...relating to the Province of Prince Edward Island...

    "The first car appeared on the island in 1905, and raised such a ruckus that a law was passed in 1908 outlawing the operation of any motor vehicle. Automobiles were strictly illegal on PEI until 1913! "

    Last time I was there they seemed to have embraced that new iron horse.

    ...and life goes on even with violins and ebay... someday we will wonder how we did without ebay....never tried it yet myself though! But then, I've not been to a casino either! Both take your money and you're never sure what you might get back.

    Cheers, Mat

  16. quote:

    Originally posted by:

    Could others please explain to me what justifies regraduation?!

    The only real justification is to experiment and learn...

    I have regraduated quite a few and with mixed results...but generally positive. In all cases but one they were my own violins and of the $10 variety with very poor bass bars. These violins would never have the commercial value to justify a regrad, but when its your own time for the satisfaction of learning... it is worth it.

    Often I found that the plates were too thin in places so, I needed to leave some areas thicker to compensate.

    The one I did for a customer was at his insistence and I think I got lucky...he was absolutely delighted with the result.

  • Create New...