Jump to content
Maestronet Forums

Mat Roop

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Mat Roop

  1. So, not wanting to do a whole lot of experimentation and testing... here is a link to several Loctite glues available in small 3 gm sizing for about $8 Canadian or $6 US ....which for a smaller shop like mine is cost effective.


    The spec sheet is included for each of the versions ... Loctite 401 low viscosity, 495 general purpose, 414 general purpose with more gap fill, and there is also a 409 gel from other suppliers.  

    back to my original question... for those who have used ca glues, which type of glue do you use and does it effectively wick thoughout the entire tip liner?

    Thanks for your advice!.... Mat

  2. General consensus seems to be that CA glue is used for replacing bow tip faceplates and splines.

    But... I can find no info on which type of CA glue... ie... superthin? regular? thick?  although they say to use "fresh glue" and " industrial glue"

    so my questions ...

    1- is there a big difference between the hardware variety of CA vs industrial?

    2-which viscosity to use? If you clamp first & dab the edges, will thin or regular wick all the way thru? or should the thick version be used first and then the surfaces mated & clamped/

    btw... I have been using g2 epoxy for faceplates , so have no real experience with the CA glues. ... Thanks for your thoughts!... Mat


  3. On 3/22/2022 at 5:30 PM, Mentalist said:

    Hello!  So, I thought of something but I'm not sure if it's a new idea.  My ground coat is washed linseed oil.  Left out in the sun, the wood on your violin will turn a beautiful yellow color.  But today I tried something...I bought some bee pollen from Amazon and I ground the bee pollen into the linseed oil and then applied it with a clean, lint-free cloth.  Has anyone ever done this before?

    Curious... how did your test turn out???

    My guess would be that the pollen is not truly transparent creating a bit of a cloudy appearance.  Pollens when collected by the bees, comes in a great variety of colors depending on the type of flowers that are available. Pollens consist primarily of proteins, amino acids and carbohydrates and is primarily used to feed the larvae.

    Propolis on the other hand is a resinous material collected by honey bees from poplar buds and coniferous cones.They use it to line the inside of their hive and seal any cracks to keep intruders out. It does dry hard and when refined would be quite clear. my guess is that it would make a good ground... it is antiseptic and smells good too!

    ... having been an apiarist, I had 45 million workers working for me...supervising them was the issue!:huh:

  4. I maintain classroom bows regularly and generally, the only reason I clean the hair is get rid of the terrible finger dirt build up in the hair near the frog... I don't clean the entire length of hair.

    When it comes to cleaning strings, before you clean the strings, play your instrument carefully noting the tone, then clean the strings and again note the tone... you will be amazed at the difference... most people clean strings before playing and so don't have a good reference point to realize the difference.  Here is my solution...


    Cheers!... Mat


  5. 13 hours ago, Mark Norfleet said:

    ...I recently saw a drying box for bow hair in a colleagues shop.  I don't remember if it was heated, but the concentrated air flow over the hair certainly reduces the drying time....

    Whats wrong with a plain ol' hair dryer? ... I use it all the time.

  6. Not getting  over my head re authenticity, so I'll not comment on that,  but I have had a few of these and indeed, they are real nice bows... with silver fittings like yours.... all sold now.

    If some expert says its the real thing, I'll be kicking a..!   ... mine that is!

    Waiting for the experts to chime in. 

    Cheers, Mat


  7. On 3/10/2022 at 11:04 PM, Jeffrey Holmes said:

    I plan to try a new (to me) hide glue from Japan on my next project. It gets very good reviews from several colleagues, some who mention it almost seems to get sucked into the crack when applied.  Hope that's true.  :) 

    Di you know what is different about this glue?....adding a compatible surfactant perhaps?  

    Here is an article that has just a bit on adding a surfactant to animal glue ... see pg 60.


    ... the addition of ethanol seems interesting.

    Cheers, Mat


  8. This is the type of syringe one can use for narrow cracks & seams... the glue runs easily thru the 18- 20 ga needles... finer needles work with thinner glue. 

    I use the medical type for injections from Farm supply company but do grind the sharp point off so that it stays in the crack& does not stab into the wood as easily.



    fwiw... Mat

  9. Very few of the Incredibows around here... but I had one client that said he simply loved the bow and was not interested in anything else. ... Can't imagine what he played prior to getting the incredibow!

    Two years later he brought his violin in again for tune up, and then I offered for his trial ( and zero obligation) and opinion,  a nice silver fitted pernambuco Tourte style bow that I had rehaired with premium "Siberian"  hair.  "Sure... I'll try it for you & let you know what I think"

    His reply a week later... " you can't have it back!" I am guessing he does not play the Incredibow, but... it is a good emergency backup.

    I guess quality is a relative thing.


  10. On 1/12/2022 at 6:32 PM, Marty Kasprzyk said:

    Has anybody tried using metal filled epoxy putty to get a perfect bridge fitting.

    I envision coating the top with a little paste wax at the bridge to prevent the epoxy from bonding to the top.  Tiny balls of epoxy putty would be stuck onto the bridge feet and with the bridge in proper position the string tension would be brought up to normal pitch which would squish out the epoxy putty to form a thin perfect no gap fit at full string tension.

    After the epoxy has cured the bridge would be removed and any excess squished out putty would be trimmed off of the bridge feet.

    Don't forget the paste wax.


    Do you think the epoxy "perfect" fit would make a sufficiently significant tonal improvement?  

    Would the epoxy itself have a tonal effect?

    Also, what happens when the perfect fit is compromised by the slightest shift of the bridge once it is in use and handled and played?

    Maybe a less than absolute perfect fit might be preferable in the long run?


  11. 8 hours ago, David Burgess said:

    It looks quite reasonable and well thought-out to me. Would need to try it to say more.

    One thing I will question are the instructions to hold the bridge in one place, and pull the carbon paper from one side to make the mark on the bridge feet. Seems like pulling the carbon paper, thus putting it in tension would bridge the low points on the top, rather than marking the feet in such a way to best fit into them.

    Thanks David... what tends to happen is that where the bridge pinches the  carbon paper against the top, the carbon transfer is darker than where it is transferred by tension only. Like any tool, it takes some practice to get it to work to ones own style and need. 

    Thanks Fjodor for your affirmation!

    Cheers!... Mat


  12. My issue has always been that holding the bridge at the ABSOLUTE EXACT tilt as well as  placement side to side and front to back ( simultaneously) after every cut was very time consuming and with my less than "surgeon steady" hands I was never "dead on" in all respects. 

    A a solution I developed this device that tends to avoid the problems of the roller jig....and my aging eyes and hands.


    Looking for honest critical comments ... in the quest for perfection ..:huh: 

    Thanks... Mat

  13. Ok... dumb question... a powered jointer has two tables adjustable to match the thickness of the cut, otherwise the joint will not be straight ... . Why is it then that there are no hand planes with two adjustable soles.... would that not produce a better straighter edge?

  14. PVA glues were developed in the 1950's. It would be a real shame if our heirs a few hundred years hence, find that the pva glues deteriorate slowly and that  these lovingly and meticulously repaired and hand made instruments, made with PVA glues, begin to fall apart and lose all significant value. ... and for what... a bit of convenience today?

    Hide glue is easy, hide glue works, hide glue lasts, hide glue is proven... I'm sticking to hide glue.

    Cheers... Mat

  15. my guess is that the back is of relatively high density wood, making it more conducive for producing higher frequency vibrations... hence the soundpost under the treble side of the bridge will transmit the treble vibrations to the back.  Conversely, the top is of lower density conducive to producing lower frequency vibrations and  so the bass side of the bridge needs to transmit the bass frequencies to the top via the bass bar, and not to the back.... my 2 simplistic cents:)

  • Create New...