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Mat Roop

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Everything posted by Mat Roop

  1. 1-If it were me, I would spend the tidbit and get the "official " certificate. 2- would they want to see/handle the instrument before issuing a certificate? ... or just from your pics?
  2. Yes... every cello has a wolf and when you attach to, or modify the body, it will change the location of the wolf... but sometimes a change will make matters worse, so that is why the Rezx magnetic modulator was developed... you can move it ad nauseum to find the perfect spot without cost and without affecting the integrity of the instrument. If you find a spot that suits your need then that can be duplicated in a permanent alteration, but alas, often that spot changes with time, humidity and temperature... so a permanent alteration of the instrument may not be a good idea.... and so, back to a moveable resonance modulator that can be moved on a whim.
  3. Here is a good study on taming wolfs on a cello... https://www.aitchisoncellos.com/taming-wolf-notes/ ... and many other awesome articles
  4. The neck needs a complete overhaul... make it playable! Sentimental violins are worth every penny... it may be that last real thing that will keep memories and stories alive! It should be restored structurally but not erasing wear & tear and stories to tell.
  5. This might help... https://www.violins.ca/supplies/bridges/bridges_despiau.html
  6. ...and this thread gives life to stupidity! What a waste.
  7. my favorite is antique shops... I get to inspect & measure and being a cheap SOB, I negotiate and have acquired many decent markies and the like for $30-$90. Most often they are in horrid condition, but that is what I like ... take a piece of junk and make it sound great for a student. that process would give you experience in all aspects of the violin. But I will not pick up a junk instrument, just those that have been decent (for kitchen parties and students) until they were abused. for example... a $75 John Juzek viola (in horrid condition with corners missing)+ $1000 of my time & parts ... sold it for $1400. and totally loved by the student a bow in a dark and stuffy antique shop with no hair, covered in dirt and broken slide... bargained from $10 down to $5. Brought it home, cleaned it up and found nice pernambuco with silver fittings. I added a premium rehair and sold it for $800... felt guilty for having bargained. Cheers!... Mat
  8. I have always promoted the concept that violins need to be kept out in the open so that they "stay alive" with ambient sound and vibrations . But I keep running across comments that good players and expensive violins are kept in their case. I thought cases were for transport only or for when there is possibility of physical harm. probably not an issue for violins played daily, but for casual players?? Am I wrong??... what is the general consensus?
  9. tying bow hair the simple way... easy and REALLY tight ...The constrictor knot... 2 versions... https://www.animatedknots.com/constrictor-knot-rope-end-method https://www.animatedknots.com/constrictor-knot-twisting-method Takes a bit of practice, but when you get it ... its great.
  10. The adjustable soundpost would be equivalent to installing a post with rounded ends... except that there would be little damage to the top. ie... it is like thickening the plate and shortening the post... so as David says, a very different behaviour. If, however, the swivel cap on the post could be glued and set once it is in final position, ... you might get a different result?
  11. and now you will do a lot of trial and error. Its a lot tougher than you might imagine to get the rehair just right.... especially on a standard bow... Glassers are easier. Make sure you have a few extra hanks of hair on hand! ... and be sure to buy high quality hair.... good luck!
  12. No... the sales sample is always the "best of the bunch" or better. It is intended to impress.
  13. Could this perchance have been a sales sample? because "Spezial Antertigung" translates to "Special manufacture" Perhaps some factory or luthier wanted to have weisshaar distribute these instruments for them. That would explain why "a bridge has never set foot on it".
  14. Nick....what is your description of " properly repaired"?
  15. missing a tongue... the last owner cut it off because he played so bad the lion kept sticking it's tongue out at him.
  16. I think it is a "folk art" fiddle... made with a factory neck. I had a client come in one day to have 2 fiddles fixed ... one was a dutzendarbeit in not bad shape the other was a home brew folk fiddle. The folk fiddle had lots of unusual features, and I advised the customer It would not likely sound like much. They insisted on repairing both and to my great surprise the folk fiddle sounded better than the dutzen. so... you may be in luck and have a great sounding fiddle. My recommendation... don't sell it for the high bid of $26.50... I'm offering $27 CAD
  17. As an experiment I bought a spiral and straight from Ali express just for curiosity and and use on school violins because they were cheap... turns out it was an expensive experiment because the straight one would not cut at all and the spiral pretty much useless... Still using my original that I bought from Geo. Heinl 30 years ago... works like a charm...FWIW ... Mat
  18. You'll never realize what a great repair really is until you see this...
  19. Oh.... and in case you are wondering what the other item in the OP photo is ... its a "clothes peg" https://medium.economist.com/the-curious-history-of-the-clothespeg-3f8615519c61 ... also known as a liner clamp... http://www.rolandstefenviolinmaker.com/Images/052 Rest of Liners Installed 2.jpg
  20. Last time I bought they were about $4 or $5 per marker
  21. I have recently been in the habit of removing the string protector, but instead of placing a skin under the e... I dab a bit of thin super glue to harden the slot to prevent it from collapsing under the string.... seems to work well. Anybody else do that? any negative side effects?
  22. Thanks everyone... looks like dry brown chalk dust is where I'm headed! I have some black chalk dust I use for slippy ebony pegs, works pretty good on the bass bar, but it is just a bit gray, So I'll get some dark brown chalk & try that. ....Cheers, Mat
  23. check my link above... there must be 50 or 60 color variations... more than you'll ever need:)
  24. So Strad O, when you put a new bass bar in an old violin with a dark interior you leave the new white bass bar white? I've done that many times, but because you can easily see the bar at the f hole, to me it sticks out like a sore thumb. But... if that is considered good practice, I'm all in!
  25. Thanks B. ... Yes, on a separate piece of wood its easy to stain and get results, but in reality the problem is that the bar or cleat is carved after installation and one needs to be careful to not stain the original aged wood, otherwise it really looks like c.... ... so just wondering what do others do?
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