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Mat Roop

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Everything posted by Mat Roop

  1. I was looking for a post that I recall from a few years ago where Jeffrey posted a few pics of a before and after repair of a violin crack and the finish restoration. I recall that the repair was absolutely invisible... Can't find the post. Anyone here know where it is??
  2. Thanks Y'all... that's what I thought. If there was a serious scientific principle involved, they would refer to that principle. Cheers!... Mat
  3. saw this ad in Strings Magazine... checked out the site www.fastersound.com ...but could not find an answer to: How does it work... in theory and in reality?
  4. Mat Roop


    Beauty is in the eye and ear of the beholder... post pics of your first... it will likely have a better opinion than you expect.
  5. Thanks Mark... so if the groove is hardened with CA, well finished & lubricated, what is the point of the parchment? I do agree that after applying CA, the groove can't be filed to fresh wood as that can creates a sharp edge.
  6. I too have a distaste for the plastic sleeves... even for student instruments. I have for the last few years finished shaping the bridge & groove then touching the groove with fresh ca glue ( not the thick version). It soaks in, hardens the slot and then retouch with a file and lubricate... seems to hold up reasonably well Curious to hear if others do that or have reasons to not do it. Cheers, Mat
  7. Thanks Andreas... The reason I ask was that a few years back I had a fairly talented fiddler bring in an old "lions head " fiddle, falling apart, with signifcant sentimental value. It had no linings at all. Fitting new linings was not an expense they were willing to commit to. Interestingly, It became that player's "favourite" ... which made me wonder if a more flexible top grid was beneficial. Apparently not, and then possibly, this fiddlers other violins must be ones of the "usual" dust bin variety! Always enjoy your posts Andreas!... cheers, Mat
  8. Andreas... so can you advise what is the effect of stiffer top linings to tone... and conversely, the effect of weaker stiffness ? Thanks, Mat
  9. Thanks Dr Mark... Now I understand ..... that I am not too bright!
  10. Can I assume that an "integral tailpiece" is a tailpiece that has built in 4 fine tuners. ...correct? why?... what happens when you use them?
  11. Was tempted many times, but never tried these because I enjoy peg shaving...now, I think I will. Do you still leave the classic e fine tuner on the tailpiece as well, or is the FT e peg fine enough? Cheers... Mat
  12. Colored pegs?
  13. I guess I always had an issue wth getting the bridge to exactly the same position before testing fit. It was the angle that was tough for me. That is why I designed this gadget that holds the bridge at exactly the same spot & angle for each try. perhaps has some limitations for the real high end violins, but for the usual... makes life easy.... Mat http://rezx.biz/photos/bridgefittingtoolweb.pdf
  14. 1- my guess is that the luthier is a guitar luthier 2-The shiny finish is french polish... or maybe more likely guitar lacquer.
  15. I'm curious...could you share some closer pics of the nut from different angles... that's the piece that the strings go over at the small end of the fingerboard. Thanks!... Mat
  16. Rue... may I suggest my diagnosis of OA? Osteo Arthritis... but then, could also be... Old Age?
  17. Good idea... I'll try it!... Thx... Mat
  18. I do sort of what Jacob does except I wet the bridge totally then place it in a plastic bag for a few hours, to absorb the moisture throughout ( don't want to over saturate) Then slowly ( in 3 or 4 light clamp actions) clamp onto a flat surface and let set over night. Remove plastic bag and reclamp and let dry. If the feet fit currently then by slightly shimming the flat board at the appropriate place, ( usually the lower waist) the feet fit will remain but the warp will be straightened. I must admit though that I more often just fit a new bridge, because if the strings have dug in or are not quite the right height or spacing, or the right thickness, I'd rather just fix it all and be done with it. Also, I may be wrong but my sense is that a warped and straightened bridge is now weaker than original? My 2 cents!... Cheers, Mat
  19. Outofnames...as a temporary test... try some double sided adhesive tape on the frog... a small strip in the right place might help.... maybe even some 200 or 400 grit sandpaper attached with the double sided tape. No harm and it might generate some ideas for you. Cheers, Mat
  20. Yes Mark, I was instructed by the manufacturer that if you allow the mix to sit for 20 min then two improvements... 1- stronger bond and 2- the exposed finished set glue will have a cleaner and less tacky surface = less cleanup.
  21. VdA....I am not part of his circle, but as I understand it he plays in a group that includes a Metis fiddler, a classical player and him , a high school music teacher... so I guess they cover many styles. Its just that I had never seen that concept except for elastic bands at the end of the finger grip. Cheers... Mat
  22. About a year ago I had a client that asked for a solution to his finger sliding excessively up on the bow shaft explaining that he was taught to hold the bow loosely, but that causes his hand to slide up the bow. I have seen things like elastics wrapped around the finger grip for this purpose. Attached is a pic of what I made & installed. Essentially a strip of leather contact with cement & wrapped to build up to a thickness of about 3mm. I did not get too fancy expecting it be removed. But... a year later the bow has come back for a rehair and the client advised he was exceptionally pleased with this fingerstop. So, I thought I might share the idea because he was so pleased with the result. Also, for my knowledge & understanding, Is this an issue generally for players, and is this sort of thing done in this industry? If so, what is the usual solution? Cheers, Mat
  23. I am assuming this is a not too expensive bow... Buy a new one. Failing that, I would try using G2 epoxy with first a liberal cleaning of the crack with acetone, and let set for at least 3 days to cure at room temp... no spline. If it fails oh well & not much lost! Usually G2 epoxy if proportioned exactly and well mixed provides a very solid joint. As In understand it, G2 is used in the making of wood propellers.. a high stress and vibration environment. Good luck!
  24. Violadamore thanks for your thoughts... so what do you use to clean the metal on frogs for student bows and anything different for pro bows?.. Thanks, Mat
  25. Autosol is a chrome polish... works great. In use the paste in a tube version. I suppose silver polish would work likewise. https://www.autosol.com BTW... re ammonia for cleaning... I use a fairly weak solution ( about 1-2 tbsp/ cup water) and have never had an issue... I also use it judiciously on student violins with no issues.... yet!
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