Mat Roop

Thanks for the info... Thanks to another member who sent me a private note, It was Marty Kasprzyk that I was thinking of. Thanks, I'll check out Paul K.

Hi Folks... My memory is starting to fail, so I thought I'd ask for your help... I recall a maker who posted regularly and made uniquely styled violins and I believe he was out of Australia ... what is his name? Thanks!... Mat

Further to Brad's comment... It seems to me that the " Fingergrip" should be grippy... but the smooth finish on the finger grip of most cheaper imported bows is quite smooth with the clear plastic covering. I am always tempted to remove the clear covering assuming it is there to prevent oxidation and discolouration while in storage til sold. OTOH I have not been able to find any consensus of whether to leave the covering or remove it. Removal: pro... better grip and sweat absorption for better playability. Con... dirt buildup and faster wear Leave on: pro ... easier to clean & less wear. Con...more slippery and in time corners lift & starts to peel. If the objective is better grip and easier plability, why is it not general standard practice to remove the clear covering on the fingergrip? Thoughts ??

Thanks for the replies... exactly what I was looking for. The thread explanation is awesome! Cheers! ... Mat

IMO instruments of sentimental value are always worth keeping... this one properly set up with new post, bridge and decent strings ( + a thorough inspection for other issues) will likely sound quite nice for student/social playing... maybe even better! Good luck!

Hi Folks, I picked up an old Maggini copy violin that came with a cheap old white wood bow and frog that is not worth much. However the screw looks to be of good quality & interesting ...I've never seen threads like this... can anyone offer any info on the screw? Is there a name for this kind of tread? when might it have been made?

Thanks everyone... I appreciate your advice and shared experiences!

To follow up on recent topics... In fitting a new fingerboard, it is easy to set the bridge position and line up the fb with the bridge. However, that does not guarantee that the end pin is also in line. So, in my estimation, lining up the fingerboard with the end pin is essential and then fitting the bridge lined up in between. Wihat is the best way to verify that the fingerboard or neck is lined up ( or not) with the end pin? I have a crude method that sort of works, but I'd love to hear what others do. Cheers, Mat

Thanks Michael... appreciate your advice. Re.. your comment on post pressure... I typically set posts with rather minimal pressure so as to not too easily drop the post without string pressure. Is there a general rule as to the tonal effect on more vs less post pressure?

Hi folks... I have a violin with a fingerboard that points slightly to the bass side by about 2-3 mm at the bridge. The owner does not want a neck reset nor a new therapeutic fingerboard, and the player will always keep the bridge lined with the fingerboard. The question is .. Should the sound post be set to be equidistant to the bass bar relative to the bridge, or should the post be equidistant to the bass bar relative to the violin top... ie as it would be if the fingerboard were lined up true. Is there a sense of what the tonal implication would be either way? Thanks for your advice! ... Mat

Thanks Guys...I knew about the hide glue & glass... just did not connect it to this situation! I also like the thought that both glues are based on natural proteins, so they should be compatible. I will test some hide glue on the neck root & test... I am feeling more confident... Thanks guys! Mat

Thanks Evan... only problem is that for testing I need to make some casein glue for testing and then I am not sure I can rely on it because my formulation might be different and the age of the glue may also have an effect. Really hoping someone with more actual experience will chime in. I may be tempted to try to remove the glue with morpholine... if I can get it.

So, there is lots of info on casein glue but I can't seem to find the answer specifically on this...If the casein is just sliced off with a chisel close to the level of the wood... will hide glue stick the the remnants of the casein. problem.. a loose neck had been glued with casein, but the fit was not tight... needs to be disassembled cleaned and reglued... how much of the casein needs to be removed?

Funny you should mention that.... I have a horse rancher client for whom I have rehaired several bows with hair from one of his favorites... a lot of extra work..,., cleaning and culling out the knurly ones. Finished product works out well though. ...Cheers! Mat

Newfoundland you say!!.... an interesting tale from the "80s ... and Rufus does not need a chin rest!!