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Mat Roop

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  1. An issue i have pondered... as in the Nehr videos above, the hair is well wetted before tying the second knot. Problem as I see it is that hair shrinks when drying, but the knot string does not because it is synthetic. So once the hair in the knot is dry... won't the knot be just a bit less tight?? ... as opposed to tying the knot dry.
  2. I just use a pair of channel lock pliers with a heavy pad of leather glued to each side of the jaw
  3. ok, so....the after length of the strings behind the bridge are important for best tone... then the length of the strings beyond the nut ( I'll call that the forelength) should also have a similar effect on tone? and if so, then the fact that when the strings rest on the side of the peg box (as above), that should be disastrous to the tone? Am I extrapolating correctly?
  4. Of course... I just don't get it.. how is it that blatant counterfeiting is possible without consequences.?
  5. Just imagine for just $3.40 you can buy 4 ea Despiau Superieur 3 star brand bridges... what more can you ask for?... Look at the bottom left sample... awesome! ...How do they get away with this??? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000591316154.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.48cc15847lgC6G&algo_pvid=71b9d433-3d84-435c-a341-fd179ec19712&algo_exp_id=71b9d433-3d84-435c-a341-fd179ec19712-2&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000027367144217"}&pdp_pi=-1%3B3.4%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BUSD%3Bsearch-mainSearch ... and shipping is only $1.81!
  6. re the quality of hair...I'll agree with Mark in one way, but not another way... If you use cheap hair it can be thin, brittle, ungiving and difficult to manage... making the rehair a more difficult job, and one is more likely to give up. But... if can can learn to do a good rehair with poor hair, you can surely do a great job with great hair. On a per bow basis good hair will cost in the order of $8 in bulk cheap hair about $1... but the rehair job costs about $60... so relatively I have never compromised on quality. On the other hand, buy the best materials, best tools... you will pay more but your experience will be that much more successful and rewarding. I get a lot of compliments on my rehairs and one of the best I got was... " wow!... that bow almost plays by itself now!" ... and I think that has a lot to do with the hair quality. Good luck!... Mat
  7. I started 30 years ago and I've learned on my own and have developed a system that gives superior results... Every time! Someday I'll write the how to book, but for now a few points to get you thinking... 1- buy the best hair there is ... I pay over $500/500gm plus shipping... cheap hair can be found for well under $100/500gm. The hair needs to be stallion; Siberian (whether it is actually Siberian is debatable, but it does reflect a certain quality); 32" (for violin); unbleached; 2-I use Coats extra strong 100%nylon upholstery thread for tying the knot... I gave up on the wire suggested in the H Wake book 3- Comb the hank to perfection before you tie the last knot 4-Use the Constrictor knot for tying...you can pull it real tight and it stays put. Key is "tight" then melt the ends of the thread to seal it to the knot... never had a knot let go. https://www.animatedknots.com/constrictor-knot-rope-end-method 5- Stretch the hair 6... If you end up with a few loose hairs, do not use a flame... I invert a dry clothes iron at the highest setting and lower the loose hair onto the iron ... the heat will shrink it and it pops into place. The problem with a flame is that you end up shrinking not only the loose hairs but also the tight ones. ... enough for now!.... good luck, Mat Ps... be careful of grain orientation of the plugs!
  8. Ditto to Jim Bress ... Mat
  9. Thanks everyone for your helpful thoughts and experience... I have ordered all 4 of the above versions and will try them as I go on. Using epoxy can also be a messy process, so I have always used a light tack masking tape to carefully cover the sides of the head ... makes clean up easier and quicker.... hopefully that works as well with CA glue. Also, I clean the surfaces to be glued with acetone just before glue application. ...we'll see how it goes. Cheers, Mat
  10. So, not wanting to do a whole lot of experimentation and testing... here is a link to several Loctite glues available in small 3 gm sizing for about $8 Canadian or $6 US ....which for a smaller shop like mine is cost effective. https://www.wfsltd.com/en/catalogsearch/result/index/?cat=138&q=loctite+ The spec sheet is included for each of the versions ... Loctite 401 low viscosity, 495 general purpose, 414 general purpose with more gap fill, and there is also a 409 gel from other suppliers. back to my original question... for those who have used ca glues, which type of glue do you use and does it effectively wick thoughout the entire tip liner? Thanks for your advice!.... Mat
  11. General consensus seems to be that CA glue is used for replacing bow tip faceplates and splines. But... I can find no info on which type of CA glue... ie... superthin? regular? thick? although they say to use "fresh glue" and " industrial glue" so my questions ... 1- is there a big difference between the hardware variety of CA vs industrial? 2-which viscosity to use? If you clamp first & dab the edges, will thin or regular wick all the way thru? or should the thick version be used first and then the surfaces mated & clamped/ btw... I have been using g2 epoxy for faceplates , so have no real experience with the CA glues. ... Thanks for your thoughts!... Mat
  12. Curious... how did your test turn out??? My guess would be that the pollen is not truly transparent creating a bit of a cloudy appearance. Pollens when collected by the bees, comes in a great variety of colors depending on the type of flowers that are available. Pollens consist primarily of proteins, amino acids and carbohydrates and is primarily used to feed the larvae. Propolis on the other hand is a resinous material collected by honey bees from poplar buds and coniferous cones.They use it to line the inside of their hive and seal any cracks to keep intruders out. It does dry hard and when refined would be quite clear. my guess is that it would make a good ground... it is antiseptic and smells good too! ... having been an apiarist, I had 45 million workers working for me...supervising them was the issue!
  13. I maintain classroom bows regularly and generally, the only reason I clean the hair is get rid of the terrible finger dirt build up in the hair near the frog... I don't clean the entire length of hair. When it comes to cleaning strings, before you clean the strings, play your instrument carefully noting the tone, then clean the strings and again note the tone... you will be amazed at the difference... most people clean strings before playing and so don't have a good reference point to realize the difference. Here is my solution... https://www.violins.ca/info/how-to-clean-your-violin-strings-easily.html Cheers!... Mat
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