Jump to content
Maestronet Forums

Mat Roop

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Wyoming, Ontario, Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

22684 profile views

Mat Roop's Achievements


Enthusiast (5/5)

  1. In a previous thread https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/354777-violin-bow-trial/ Andrew Victor said " If you can feel vibrations in the stick while playing, you have a pretty good idea that the string vibrations are not adequately damped in the bow." So, what are the qualities of a good bow that enhances the damping of string vibrations? Can someone explain the physics principles of how the bow does the damping? Thanks!... Mat
  2. Yes, and I recall having accepted a multi crack cello for repair only to be faced with an irate client saying that the cello does not sound as good as before the repair. same with a beat up and battered accoustic bass. does not seem to be as evident with a violin.
  3. re the scratches... Just clean the violin and then give it what I call a varnish rub.. ie section at a time, rub the violin ( using your finger), with fresh OIL BASED violin varnish of matching color and then IMMEDIATELY wipe it ALL off. That leaves a microfilm of varnish that seals the open wood, helps blend the scars, and leaves it with good character.
  4. The only thing you ever remove is DIRT!
  5. I would clean it, fix any damage and glue any open joints, and do a full set up... then donate it to an elementary school string program. That would reward them for the repair work they send you, and If they don't then they might!
  6. yes, I agree.... a decades old child.
  7. or play with one of these... https://www.violins.ca/accessories/wolftone_eliminators.html
  8. I would get an in-person opinion from a respected archetier. I would be inclined to have it repaired to a useable state assuming no issues that I cant see in the pics. You should be able to get value for the cost... but you won't know until you have spent the cash! It is likely quite old based on the rolled rather than cut thread on the screw. And... I would not assume it is ivory, unless you know for sure.
  9. I guess when you have your nose to the grindstone and don't look up, you have a lot to learn!... True in my case. In my earlier comment I noted that all speakers that I am aware of, are cone shaped with the hollow pointing forward. Well that is not at all true... apparently the better ones costing $25000- 250000 are shaped quite different as in the you tube video. ...and sound far superior to the cone versions, and more like instruments. Here are a couple of links my audiophile son pointed me to...The first is really interesting reading but way over my pay scale. https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/omnidirectional-loudspeakers-best-design-available.19024/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLnSsE6GZAs Based on the comments in the science review link... I think the experiment I proposed is a lost cause and I will not be sacrificing an historic Markie "Usual" for a test! Interesting discussion and thanks everyone for their input... Cheers, Mat
  10. Hi Marty, I would love to see you do the experiment professionally... You are so much more skilled and adept at building special models and likely have some excellent equipment to record the tonal results. Maybe even build it on higher ribs. As for myself, not being a maker, I will just take a cheap markie set it up and see what it sounds like, and then flip the back, and see what the change is... just for my personal curiosity. I will likely need to irreversibly alter the back in the process as the button needs to fit flush to the base of the neck for gluing ... I might even have to remove some of the recurve so that it will glue securely to the ribs.... not to mention I'll have to strip the varnish for sure.... etc etc
  11. If these investors have too much money, why would they revert to a low profit business that includes extra work to store, pack and ship?? I think that is unlikely. ...maybe just another conspiracy theory to justify the fake.
  12. I am sure Thomastik should be able to tell you how to identify fakes... info@thomastik-infeld.com And these....At $34.99/set and under $3 shipping... are they real? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832682576130.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1f3e2fd5q5awmn&algo_pvid=c197536d-43ce-4d57-9ddb-002bc39fb8e8&algo_exp_id=c197536d-43ce-4d57-9ddb-002bc39fb8e8-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"66233400688"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!CAD!!46.11!!!!!%402101e9d516543127745131106e61c4!66233400688!sea&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt
  13. Marty, so am I correct to understand that in a normal violin, when the soundpost moves (vibrates) inward, the top plate spreads pushing the ribs outward, and at the same time the bottom plate moves outward pulling the ribs inward. This suggests that the two plates are working against each other and actually twisting the ribs. So, with the bottom plate flipped, then the two plates will be spreading in and out at the same time ... a more efficient / powerful system? I plan on trying this on a cheap markie ... first set up normally then flipping the same back... and see what the difference is. I realize the body volume will be significantly reduced, but ultimately this can be resolved with higher ribs. Maybe I should try it with a small viola and end up with a powerful violin?
  14. I am not a maker, so maybe this makes no sense but... I'll ask anyway... While recently repairing a back plate sound post crack made me wonder what would happen if the back plate were to be installed in reverse with the arching concavity outward. that should make for several advantages ( I think) 1- with changes in humidity, the post fit should not change as both plates would expand & contract, not exactly but similarly, keeping the spacing between top & back the same... more significant for the cello or bass 2-pressure on the back plate from the post should be less likely to create a crack 3-sound radiation from the back plate would be to the outside instead of being trapped inside and interfering with the vibrations of the top plate. A speaker cone always projects from the concave side... so why not the back plate?? or for that matter why not both plates with the concavity to the outside? I've been thinking of taking a less valuable violin and making new taller ribs and fitting the back plate in reverse. Of course I'd have to do some calculation to try to keep the internal volume the same as original... if that matters. Anybody thought of this before??? Thoughts on what the results might be? Cheers!... Mat
  15. I'll pay you $30 for it!... But remember, I am in Canada so that means $30 CAD. ... and you pay the shipping BTW... looking at the bass bar , It appears the bar is of good quality, so it has likely been replaced... probably better than the original , but, then you lose true authenticity of the instrument. Good luck!... Mat
  • Create New...