Mat Roop

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    Wyoming, Ontario

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  1. A manufacturer with a distribution network would not likely sell direct at lower than MSRP pricing, which is often higher than most retail... hence they almost never sell direct. Otherwise if they undercut their distributors, why would distributors carry their product... they'll just find another brand that respects their distribution role. And Rue... If you buy from the US, be sure it is shipped via the postal system... I have ordered lots of tools, bows, etc and never been charged duty or customs. If it is shipped via Purolator or UPS, you will pay a min. of about $50 for customs clearance in addition to the duty. Seems to me the postal system has bigger fish to fry and don't bother with charging on the smaller orders. I agree with the many good sentiments about Lemuel... He is one of my favorite suppliers with nothing but the best of quality and don't hesitate to talk to him, he will look after your needs. BTW... I do carry strings for my regulars, but the most expensive ones are Dominants and Violinos. I use these on repair jobs, so they do move fairly regularly.
  2. Mat Roop


    Just ran across this ....Has anyone used it.... any good application?.. splits? bow tips etc? Does it last?
  3. HNYE! ... vowing to learn text talk this year!
  4. Distinctive Whiff?... Being an old apiarist, I can assure you that propolis , in its natural state, has a very pleasant slightly sweet mild odor. It is not "bee spit", it is a collection of various oozings from plants and mixed with some beeswax. It has antiseptic properties and honey bees use it to line the hive for sanitary reasons and also fill any cracks in the walls of the hive... a wall to keep out any unwelcome migrants. The best example of propolis in my area is the leaf buds of poplar trees in early spring... it's that sticky brown coating on the bud that keeps the bud from drying out before it can burst open. ... but honeydew honey that many people eat and prize is another story!
  5. Why would it it matter in an existing instrument? My understanding has been that willow is a preferred choice because of its ease of flexion during the construction of the instrument. Is there any evidence of superiority in terms of tone or compatibility with spruce or maple? ... Mat
  6. Neither is burning truck loads of ivory tusks from confiscations.... after all, the elephant is already dead
  7. OK... Thanks for all your thoughts... I get the picture... and I have learned to not get excited about a find, but now more interested in the history of the some of these oddities. Likely more pics will not add to the conversation, but here are a few, for the curious. ... Cheers, Mat Ps... the pics are not great and I must say that in my time of film SLR's and split image focussing I could take much better pictures... these modern electonic cameras ( mine a Pentax K7) have just too many settings and ajustments... and the focus is automatic and never really good.... maybe its just me getting old.
  8. Here are a couple of pics... never seen a bow with a frog so excessively rounded. Can someone please enlighten me as to .. age? school? region? There is no brand on the stick, but there are the frog/stick matching marks. Thks, Mat
  9. For those who have not seen this ... Cheers... Mat
  10. How does one generally identify a carbon fibre bow from a fiberglass bow? At present I have a bow that is essentially black with a grey square pattern... I've never done much with carbon fibre and just a few Glasser fiberglas bows... The Glasser are easy to ID but more expensive ones, I don't have a clue?? Thks... Mat
  11. Speechless... and rare indeed:)...but then, I saw that they offer free dely!
  12. I agree ... a new bar is in order. But with the bar out... I'm inclined to regraduate??? As for re-varnishing... I've done a few many moons ago and never really happy with it...and now am not inclined to do that at all. I would rather clean up, and leave as is ... someone, including myself might like it... depending on how the instrument responds. I might get lucky and be able to remove the top layer leaving the apparently good underneath. Thanks for your thoughts!.... Mat
  13. I'm inclined to think the varnish did it on its own... If it were fire damage there would be signs of soot inside, but all there is, is the usual age and dust. Under the "cooked " varnish there seems to be a solid layer of normal varnish and I'm wondering whether the outer layer of varnish is an original final coat that did not harden properly, or a very soft coat applied at some later time.... no doubt it has a lot of dirt mixed in. Thx... Mat
  14. Hi Folks... I'm just getting to restoring a Ruggeri copy violin that I acquired several years ago. How would you proceed re the bass bar and varnish??? 1- The bass bar is only 4.5 mm thick and 14.5 mm high including the top of 4mm thick at the center beside the bass bar... would you replace or reglue the existing which is unglued in places. 2-The varnish is heavily grained... do you think that the leathery texture is the result of the original varnish with the smooth parts being the ground, or is it a varnish applied at a later date. I like the look of the distinct texture but it is rather exaggerated. ... What would you do (besides using it for firewood:))?? Thanks for your thoughts! ... Mat