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Mat Roop

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  1. Oh.... and in case you are wondering what the other item in the OP photo is ... its a "clothes peg" https://medium.economist.com/the-curious-history-of-the-clothespeg-3f8615519c61 ... also known as a liner clamp... http://www.rolandstefenviolinmaker.com/Images/052 Rest of Liners Installed 2.jpg
  2. Last time I bought they were about $4 or $5 per marker
  3. I have recently been in the habit of removing the string protector, but instead of placing a skin under the e... I dab a bit of thin super glue to harden the slot to prevent it from collapsing under the string.... seems to work well. Anybody else do that? any negative side effects?
  4. Thanks everyone... looks like dry brown chalk dust is where I'm headed! I have some black chalk dust I use for slippy ebony pegs, works pretty good on the bass bar, but it is just a bit gray, So I'll get some dark brown chalk & try that. ....Cheers, Mat
  5. check my link above... there must be 50 or 60 color variations... more than you'll ever need:)
  6. So Strad O, when you put a new bass bar in an old violin with a dark interior you leave the new white bass bar white? I've done that many times, but because you can easily see the bar at the f hole, to me it sticks out like a sore thumb. But... if that is considered good practice, I'm all in!
  7. Thanks B. ... Yes, on a separate piece of wood its easy to stain and get results, but in reality the problem is that the bar or cleat is carved after installation and one needs to be careful to not stain the original aged wood, otherwise it really looks like c.... ... so just wondering what do others do?
  8. So when you do internal violin repairs like bass bars, cleats on old darkened violins, do you darken the new repair wood, and what is the best solution? tea bags? dirt? chalk dust? water colors? I've never really been happy with anything I've tried. Suggestions?... Thanks, Mat
  9. I use these regularly...keeping in mind I do mostly violins for schools and the kitchen party types... so not exactly high end. https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/category/abrasive-and-finishing-products/mohawk-finishing-touch-up/touch-ups-and-wood-fillers/touch-up-markers/promark-touch-up-markers/1018930 There is a learning curve to use them effectively. I have about 10 color variations and often blend them in layers and rubs to get to where I need to be. Applying one color on top of another will also dissolve the first color... and can make a mess... so there are tricks. It helps to have a sample board of maple and spruce with each color applied and that is a good start to matching the color you need. I seal anything bare first with clear varnish or shellac, then apply marker in one or several THIN coats .. When done, seal with a clear varnish rub. Can't say I have ever seen a fading issue... Cheers, Mat
  10. This stuff (the wood version) works great... shape it, carve it, sand it, stain it and finish it! ... key is to rub the uncured material onto the surface to be glued so that the roughly shaped uncured replacement piece sticks well. https://www.brodi.com/brofix-epoxy-putty-repair-stick
  11. 1- remove the wedge & do a neck lift... https://trianglestrings.com/raisingtheprojection/ 2-the scratched cross... Although I don't do it for many reasons, It is my understanding that making a pin prick in the varnish to mark the bridge is acceptable in some circles. Are you sure the cross was not there before and you just did not notice it?
  12. maybe you can suck the alcohol out using a closed vacuum system... no heat to set off a "splosion"
  13. Depends on your definition of "worth" and "restoration". A simple rehair for $60 will make it playable then you can test it for performance and go from there. I am not into attributions, but my guess is it is a basic mass produced bow. ....check the dimensions... maybe it's a viola bow? Looks like the bore for the screw is worn. Cheers... Mat
  14. Individual hairs in a hank are not the same diameter... therefore a hank of thin hair requires many more hairs than a hank of thick hairs.... so counting hairs is futile.
  15. Well... I would try to convince ( this always works!) the bow's owner to fit a new plate and rehair the bow... my cost would be in the order of $110... but... I would do whatever the customer wants, and document the consequences (if any)... its their bow, and their money.
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