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Mat Roop

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    Wyoming, Ontario, Canada

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  1. Sorry Brad, but I fully disagree. The sentimentality of a dear grandfather is not a monetary issue. Made playable with student quality strings for a starter student or kitchen party fiddler would be rather inexpensive (in fact it might be playable as is) and could be the nudge that starts the OP on a musical Journey that he can also pass on to his heirs. Neither would I hang it as a wall decoration.... but at least I would hang it as a wall decoration In a playable condition, someone sooner or later will surely see It, and play it... and that just might be the beginnings of a wonderful journey. Cheers, Mat
  2. I would move the post so that it is equidistant from the centerline of the body as the Bass bar. Verify also: 1-that the top center seam is in fact the centerline of the instrument. 2- that the endpin is in line with the centerline of the instrument. 3- that the centerline of the fingerboard points exactly at the end pin. 4- That the projection of the fingerboard produces a bridge height ( center top of instrument to top of bridge) of 32mm +/_ 1mm but no more that +/_ 2mm. 1,2& 3 are interrelated and if one is off then that will take some consideration. Have fun!... Mat
  3. Yes, I do agree with both of you, but where there is significant family sentimental value I usually end up surrendering. I think I can deal with the cracks in a long and painful process. It's the linings, or lack thereof, that I am tempted to leave as is, but if a few extra hours will prevent a failed project, then I'd rather do that..... but not if it really is not necesssary. Looking for thoughts & ideas!
  4. So I have been asked to repair this highly sentimental dog with a lions head and bring it to playability. It has significant cracks in the top, but my real question is ... what about the lack of linings in most areas... what impact do linings have on tone and if I just glue it back togetherafter crack repairs, what are the chances of it holding? The linings that are there are rather small about 3mmX 1mm Thoughts?
  5. Thanks Y'all! ...great thoughts to digest! ... cheers, Mat
  6. I have heard of wetting the bottom of fitted bridges to soften the wood and create a better fit..... ... and so the question is ... what is the general concensus of wetting the ends of a sound post before inserting after final ajustments?? Do pros do that? ... I have always done mine dry. Could this possibly create a softness that could create a slight indent in the top... and that would cause difficulty if future ajustments were needed? Thoughts?? ... Thanks! Mat
  7. In a previous thread https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/354777-violin-bow-trial/ Andrew Victor said " If you can feel vibrations in the stick while playing, you have a pretty good idea that the string vibrations are not adequately damped in the bow." So, what are the qualities of a good bow that enhances the damping of string vibrations? Can someone explain the physics principles of how the bow does the damping? Thanks!... Mat
  8. Yes, and I recall having accepted a multi crack cello for repair only to be faced with an irate client saying that the cello does not sound as good as before the repair. same with a beat up and battered accoustic bass. does not seem to be as evident with a violin.
  9. re the scratches... Just clean the violin and then give it what I call a varnish rub.. ie section at a time, rub the violin ( using your finger), with fresh OIL BASED violin varnish of matching color and then IMMEDIATELY wipe it ALL off. That leaves a microfilm of varnish that seals the open wood, helps blend the scars, and leaves it with good character.
  10. The only thing you ever remove is DIRT!
  11. I would clean it, fix any damage and glue any open joints, and do a full set up... then donate it to an elementary school string program. That would reward them for the repair work they send you, and If they don't then they might!
  12. yes, I agree.... a decades old child.
  13. or play with one of these... https://www.violins.ca/accessories/wolftone_eliminators.html
  14. I would get an in-person opinion from a respected archetier. I would be inclined to have it repaired to a useable state assuming no issues that I cant see in the pics. You should be able to get value for the cost... but you won't know until you have spent the cash! It is likely quite old based on the rolled rather than cut thread on the screw. And... I would not assume it is ivory, unless you know for sure.
  15. I guess when you have your nose to the grindstone and don't look up, you have a lot to learn!... True in my case. In my earlier comment I noted that all speakers that I am aware of, are cone shaped with the hollow pointing forward. Well that is not at all true... apparently the better ones costing $25000- 250000 are shaped quite different as in the you tube video. ...and sound far superior to the cone versions, and more like instruments. Here are a couple of links my audiophile son pointed me to...The first is really interesting reading but way over my pay scale. https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/omnidirectional-loudspeakers-best-design-available.19024/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLnSsE6GZAs Based on the comments in the science review link... I think the experiment I proposed is a lost cause and I will not be sacrificing an historic Markie "Usual" for a test! Interesting discussion and thanks everyone for their input... Cheers, Mat
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