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  1. Just to finish up. Here is a close up of the attachment just under the zero clearance insert and the 2" blast gates in operation. It works amazingly well. I left the bottom cover of the bandsaw off while cutting and there was virtually no sawdust there. I saw this design on youtube and made my own modifications that are particular to my bandsaw.
  2. The dust collection unit is finished. I epoxied two super magnets to hold the unit and I used flexible sealant to glue the vacuum attachment to the plywood (not shown). The unit fits precisely under the zero clearance insert. Now I am making my own 2" blast gates because the band saw will share my dedicated vacuum with my oscillating sander. These are simple to make but the hard part is finding male female vacuum attachments. Its seems that PVC plumbing tubes don't quite match 2" vacuum attachments easily or without modifications.
  3. Update on the bandsaw dust collection. I am making a plywood collar to house the vacuum attachment. It is a circular collar that is sanded obliquely and has two plywood blocks that register with the underside of the table for stability. I am just waiting on my order of super magnets to arrive so that this device will only held in place by magnetism hence easily removable when I need to change blades.
  4. This post reminded me that I should download some more pictures just in case. I believe there are over 100000 pictures here
  5. Another project I have been meaning to do for along time is to customize a DIY dust collection for my 14" band saw. The built-in dust collection port on a bandsaw is pretty useless. After looking at different solutions on youtube I think I will give this one a try. It uses a vacuum hose attachment which has the right narrow clearance to be attached under the table right below the zero clearance insert. This location is the source of most (all) of the dust. The clearance between the table and lower bearings is just less than a inch. I plan to make it easily removable. Had a small visitor this evening in the neighbor's backyard.
  6. Good point. External links are subject to ever changing sands of time as websites come and go or the policies change eg. the notorious disappearance of photobucket images. But if the image was uploaded to the maestronet server there is a good chance that it is still available even though there has been several upgrades to the maestronet website to make it more friendly to android and apple devices. If there is a specific topic you can always ask if anybody saved the thread with the pictures. I save a lot of threads that are of interest to me as word documents because you never know how long the maestronet server will be around. I also have saved a lot of earlier pictures so if you can be very specific with the date and topic of the thread I might be able to help you out,
  7. Very nice neck block but with that strong grain line it looks like a graft. One thing that you might want try to minimize the dark grain line is use a super fine 0000 brush with a matching water color pigment to lighten it. Here is an example of what I mean. I had a small chip out carving the quilted maple scroll and when I glued the chip there was a visible line when I did the ground coat. Here is a before and after. I try to make it slightly lighter than the background. Then after several coats of varnish you won't be able to see it at all
  8. I am setting up the quilted maple violin. To set the soundpost I use a piece of drafting tape to mark the bridge position and a pencil line to mark the foot of the bridge. I also use a 12 volt LED strip to light up the inside of the violin. This puts the soundpost in the ball park for minor adjustments later. I don't know what this rubber "thingy" is but I use it to hold the string ball in place when I string up the violin; otherwise the ball sometimes annoyingly falls out. I luthier friend of mine wanted to borrow my DIY Hacklinger gauge. I made it back in 2013 but I don't use it very much since I bought the electronic MAG-ic Probe. I had to restore my Hacklinger gauge and calibrate it again. The epoxied nail head became detached from the super magnet. I now made several spare magnet heads in case it fails again which I store in miniature wooden boxes. If you are interested in making your own gauge here is a detailed picture. I really don't understand why the Hacklinger gauge sells for $350 when the cost of the materials is absolutely minimal. In fact my biggest cost when I did the restoration was $10 for JB Weld metal epoxy. Magnets are about $1 each and the springs are two for $5. The rest is just your time. And after you build one it is very easy to make another.
  9. I am not sure what the cause of this would be but I know this violin was played almost every day for years both indoors and outdoors and I have done regular maintenance to make sure pegs were OK and new strings as needed... etc.
  10. If this happens again just use one of many website availability checks to see if the website is currently available. Websites sometimes need to go offline for some maintenance routines. Here is one of many checks you can use. It shows that is available worldwide except from Beijing.
  11. Now that my violin making is finished until September and I doing some repairs. This one had a center seam separation that went up almost to the bridge. Even with re-gluing and cleating the center seam by only removing the top up to lower corners I was not satisfied with the result. There still was a small gap so I decided to remove the top and reglue the center seam with much more control. Also decided to cleat the entire top while I had the chance. In my Weissharr book removing the top is well explained but I wanted to read about regluing the top which is not covered at all. There are some major things to consider when regluing one of which is the fingerboard projection.
  12. If it was the last bottle I would worry about an expiry date... best before. Lee Valley sells a premixed bottle of French Polish
  13. Also bridges tend to have very tight grain so that only a small part of the quarter-sawn maple billet may have appropriate grain. I experimented with using an 75 watt epilog laser to cut 6mm thick maple into bridge blanks. Finding plain quarter-sawn maple with tight grain was rare.
  14. HoGo... you are right, There is a sound post crack that will require a sound post patch. It looks like the bass bar crack has been glued from the inside. There is no movement or opening of the crack on the inside but it has not been cleated. It is possible to fit a "multiple arch" bass bar over the cleats as shown here but I like Nathan's suggestion.