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  1. catnip

    Elusive lining clamp source

    I made my own from an aluminum U channel rod based on this design with a slight improvement. I use a flexible plastic insert to protect the ribs. Just cut them using a band saw to a width of 9 mm and then drill and tap for standard 8-32 socket head screws at $6.50 for 100. I like them because they are pressure sensitive to the touch and I can do both sides at the same time. The red ones are thinner at about 7.5 mm wide for clamping C bouts from the inside.
  2. catnip

    V-Drum Sander anyone?

    The Flatmaster was a Canadian invention by Paul Moore probably proto-typed around ~2001. It is not a thickness sander but a flat sander that uses a flat table with a sanding roller that sits in a slot and the roller is just barely below the table. The speed of the roller causes the (centrifugal force) sandpaper to rise above the table but still be held by the velcor to the roller. It sands with out heat since the sandpaper is "floating". It works quite well to guarantee the bottom of the plate is flat. The top doesn't matter since it is carved. The only drawback is you have to keep the board moving. It does not have an automatic feeder
  3. catnip

    V-Drum Sander anyone?

    It is an inexpensive flat sander that does not require a dust collection setup since 90% of the sawdust goes into the unit. It is great for flat sanding plates upto 18" wide which can not be done on jointer. They are used mostly by cabinet makers to flatten (sand) cabinet doors. The sandpaper used is a 3" wide Velcro backing that comes in grit sizes from 60 grit to 220 grit and is easily interchangeable. Some people use half the roller for fine grit (220) and the other half for rough grit. Great tool but does require a bit of setup before you can use it.
  4. catnip

    Violin top too thin in one spot

    One other suggestion is to check the final graduations with a light box or hold your top plate up to a strong light. You will see the graduation thickness in terms of color ranging from dark orange to orange to yellow. Your thins spot will show up a bright yellow spot surrounded by orange. The other suggestion Andreas made is very good. Mark your thinner spots earlier so that you can avoid that area and bring the whole plate gradually to the desired thickness, tap tone, weight or flexibility depending on your criteria. For spruce density of 0.4 it is next too impossible to get it 60 gm without seriously thinning the plates... 70+ gm would be a better target.
  5. catnip

    Resizing images to specific measurements

    Resizing is not the issue but printing out an image to an exact size is. For example suppose you want to print out a f-hole template of a Strad from a photo to exactly 72 mm how do you do that with Snagit? It does not have a ruler and people have been asking for a ruler in Snagit for years.
  6. catnip

    Craig Tucker, in rememberence.

    Craig was very generous , compassionate and helpful to amateur violin makers. I will miss his contribution to Maestronet. Condolences and prayers to his family.
  7. catnip

    Resizing images to specific measurements

    Snagit can resize but it doesn't have ruler so it is trial and error to print out an image (scroll) to a specific dimension. Photoshop has a very accurate ruler but is a total overkill of a program.
  8. catnip

    Can Anybody Understand This Label?

    I asked a friend of mine what the translation was and this was his response: He said the writing could be Persian (Iranian) or Urdu Sayed Mortada Serrzad mid-Feb mid Mar 79 with a signature Their months are a bit different from our months
  9. catnip

    The Top 3 Beginner Mistakes

    I would say Not having the right tools or hand skills Doing things out of sequence And most importantly ... Not "seeing"
  10. catnip

    Researching information on super light violins

    Here is some average weights that I have been collecting from my violins. I weigh my violins before and after final varnishing. Each coat of oil varnish is ~ 1.5 gm back ~110 gm top ~ 60+ gm garland ~50+ gm neck ~65 gm FB (ebony) ~65 gm (Rosewood ~55 gm) Oil Varnish - Ground etc ~10 - 15 gm Tailpiece (w fine tuners) ~ 20+ gm Pegs ~ 20 gm Strings + nut + endpin ~ 5 gm Bridge ~ 2 gm
  11. catnip

    Shop made F hole drills

    This thread inspired me to make two f-hole cutters for a friend of mine. He doesn't have access to a lathe. The hardest part was sharpening the cutters. The only change I made was to use a 2mm drill bit as a centering pin since it can be used to hand drill into the center of the eye. The drill bit has a conical end and is press fit into the cutter which has a tapered hole so that it can be removed later if the cutter needs to be re-sharpened,
  12. catnip

    Caption this...

    Here is "Mon Coeur Est un Violon " played by a violin. Or loosely translated "Love is like a violin" My Heart is a violin
  13. catnip

    CAD Which program(s) do you use?

    The only reason I used Photoshop in the beginning was It had an accurate ruler. I would have used much simpler programs if only they had a ruler. Without a ruler you can't scale anything other than by trial and error. Most of Photoshop is total over-kill for what I want to do. Currently I am using Inkscape because that is what the library uses for their Epilog laser cutter. But recently I am doing much more by eye and feel rather than obsessive measurements
  14. catnip

    Wing crack in new violin

    I repaired a small f-hole crack using thin hide glue and a small spruce "biscuit" inserted into the edge which turned out to be very stable and quite invisible after varnishing.
  15. catnip

    How to cut out the forma from bottom and top wood

    Not a problem. Just cut to the outline. The "parallax" error is in your favor. The roof-top side will be slightly larger than the flat bottom.