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  1. I finished the violin about 2 weeks ago and thought I would try out a set of Alice 708 (silver, aluminum, nylon core strings) with your choice of a wire-wound E or plain E. The G and D strings were very good but the A and E were a bit weak even after the strings settled in. I replaced the strings with Warchal Karneol which settled in very quickly and improved the overall tone. I am just waiting for the weather to improve before I start varnishing.
  2. Thanks for your reply... I should have done a topic search before I posted as this was discussed in April of this year and it seems that there is no consensus. The major retailers sell a Swiss model and a French model but unless they are labelled it is not easy to tell the difference.
  3. I am sorting out my pegs after years of buying pegs from different suppliers. I am having difficulty distinguishing between the two standard peg head shapes: Swiss French ( Mirecourt) Not all the Swiss heads look alike... even when bought in bulk... some have large heads , some a bit smaller and some have a slightly different shape.
  4. Or you could use the "Flatmaster V-Drum sander" a Canadian invention check it out
  5. Setting the neck to the standard projection varies directly with the angle of the root heel. So what is the ideal root angle? It depends on what your preference for a mortise is. If you want your mortise to be parallel with the ribs ( an even mortise) then set the root angle to 83 degrees. That means there will be no difference in depth of the mortise from top to bottom. At 85 degrees there will be approx 1 mm difference ; at 87 degrees there will be about 2.5 mm difference. But the average depth of the mortise depends on the length from the nut to the heel... this varies from 136 mm to 137 mm. Personally I use a 2 mm difference. The depth of the mortise at the top is not a strength factor since that area is in compression. (thanks to Michael D for posting this years ago)
  6. Now it is time to set the neck. Since my neck root is ~ 86 degrees the mortise will deeper at the heel (5.5 mm) and shallower at the top ( 3.5mm)... roughly a 2 mm difference to get the correct projection. I use the edge overhang as a guide to cut the mortise with a small veneer saw but it does not reach all the way to the button which must be finished with a knife (as shown)
  7. The back was left a bit heavy at 120 gm with M5 at 358 hz. I do not tune to a specific frequency, rather I just record the mass and M5 to obtain a stiffness factor for future reference. Almost finished the scroll ... it is not a copy of the Kreisler scroll but rather my own consistent style.
  8. It has been awhile since I had time to get back to this violin. Just finishing the top at 65 gm with BB with mode 5 at 345 hz. Next step is the scroll.
  9. Thanks, that makes sense and it simple and straight forward. My method is a bit more complicated since I not only fix the locating pins in the bouts (off center) but I also drill out the clamping holes and cut the corner , top and bottom blocks at the same time. The only draw back is then gluing the two mold pieces along what is left of the center line.
  10. I am curious about you made your one piece mold from a half template. I see that you use similar locating pins in the upper and lower bouts that I use except I router two pieces of 1/2" plywood to exactly match the half template then center glue them. How to locate the exact position for your pins when you are using a one piece mold ?
  11. Very clean work... your attention to detail is inspiring.
  12. So sorry to hear this. Addie was very generous contributor and very helpful. So sad.
  13. The back is finished. I have left it a bit heavy at 120 gm because I intend to do an overall cleanup after I set it up in the white. It has good flexibility and a nice ring tone and is in the acceptable range for its density. The garland at 59 gm is also a bit heavier than normal but also still acceptable. Time to move on to the top and the scroll.
  14. Yes, I printed out his Kreisler form and a hi-res picture of the back. Then scaled them both at Staples.. The form was scaled to ~347 mm and the back was scaled to ~354 mm... Since Addie did the hard work to draw the form it saved me the trouble of using the back and subtracting 3.5 mm from edges and adjusting the corners which is the way I usually do it. As far as I know Del Gesu used just 2 forms so I could have used the Cannone. In any case what is the arching height of the back from the Keisler poster.?? .. I am assuming it would be close to 14.5 mm. Also the Kreisler f-holes looks very much like a Strad.