catnip

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About catnip

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    Ottawa

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  1. catnip

    Catnip's (John K) Bench

    I finally got back to violin making. The mahogany has a density that varies 0.55 gm/cc to 0.60 gm/cc. The back came in at 113 gm with taptone of 334 ( approx an E note ). I could have gone a bit lighter but I want to leave some room for a final cleanup and scraping of the outside just before varnishing. The garland came in at 50 gm.
  2. catnip

    Catnip's (John K) Bench

    I decided to take a picture before I started gluing to document the process. Using this method there is no time to take pictures. You have to work quickly because the hot glue will swell the groove. There are other methods to glue purfling but this is the method I am most comfortable with. It is fast and efficient. I also compress the purfling using a homemade press similar to what Peter Westerlund uses.
  3. catnip

    Catnip's (John K) Bench

    I finally finished my front steps and now I can get back to the mahogany violin. This will be a regular 4 string violin. I have made three 5 String violins.
  4. catnip

    re sawing ribs

    I usually mark the lining lengths and the rib lengths on the mold itself for future reference. Since you are using inches. Most makers use mm for lengths. Here are the common minimum measurements LB 9" (190 mm) CB 5 1/2" (140 mm) UB 7 1/2" (190 mm) so any combination of these minimum lengths will work 2 UB 15" (380 mm) LB + CB 14 1/2 " (370 mm) LB + CB + UB 22" ( 560 mm)
  5. catnip

    Catnip's (John K) Bench

    Took a two week break to redo the front steps. I still have to re-install the railings but I needed to have functional steps as soon as possible. The previous steps were destroyed by carpenter ants which I have addressed with some home recipes of borax and sugar. Each stringer was custom fit to the ground with a template with a hinged bottom then planed to fit using a cardboard test strip. Looking forward to getting back to working on violins.
  6. catnip

    Catnip's (John K) Bench

    Purfling groove laid out and cut. Corners finished and purfling glued. Outside longitudinal and cross archings almost completed. I like to revisit the arching over a few days with a fresh eyes. The plate weighs 275 gm at just under 16 mm. The next step is to do the inside graduations.
  7. catnip

    Catnip's (John K) Bench

    The purfling edge (ledge) has been finalized to 4 mm for the most part. I leave the button a little thicker (4.2 mm) and the corners at 4.5 mm.
  8. catnip

    Catnip's (John K) Bench

    Rough outside arching done. I have just finalized the overhang by temporarily gluing the back to the form. Tomorrow I will remove the top, finalize the edge ledge and then start on the purfling. This mahogany was pretty chippy under the small finger planes because of the figure.
  9. catnip

    J.DiLisio's Bench

    I got it here : http://stockroomsupply.ca/shop/premier-gold-j-flex-hook-and-loop-rolls-3x10m.html
  10. catnip

    J.DiLisio's Bench

    And what ground are you using over the gypsum? What grit are you using on your Flatmaster? I use 60 grit Velcro and find it works quite well.
  11. catnip

    Catnip's (John K) Bench

    Yes, I made them. I never liked the clothes pegs with extra elastics, since you can only do one side at a time. I tried some cheap plastic G clamps but it was easy to strip the threads. Then I made some wooden G clamps but sometimes (not often) the leg of the clamp would break. So finally I found some aluminum C channel and added the little plastic insert. These clamps work really well for me.
  12. catnip

    Catnip's (John K) Bench

    Ribs and linings installed. Looking forward to carving the back now.
  13. catnip

    Catnip's (John K) Bench

    I number the blocks from from #1 to #6 and include the approx. block heights. Those other dimensions are for rib lengths and (lining lengths). I use block numbers as a reference when I cut the ribs so that I don't flip the grain pattern which is easy to do. I also sequentially number the ribs as I rip them from the stock so that I can use the best sequential pair for grain matching at the end block
  14. catnip

    Catnip's (John K) Bench

    Here is the finished form
  15. catnip

    Cross-Grain Ribs

    Thanks for your replies. There are online wood shrinkage calculators Here: where you can enter both the starting and finishing relative humidity and wood length. For true mahogany the radial-tangential change over 220 mm (lower bout rib length) is between ~ -2 to -3 mm from rel humidity of 70% to 25%. I will be using standard longitudinal ribs but I did not want to throw out the radial off cut because of the wood figure and the fact that the radial cut looks "right". In the meantime I am going to test radial rib construction using some left over radial cut cherry which looks "wrong". I will cycle this construction through high and low humidity over a long period of time. It really should be varnished on the outside but I want to expose the wood to as much change as possible.