steveperry

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About steveperry

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    www.giannaviolins.com
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  1. I have a bunch of the dewaxed shellac. I have a bunch of resins and so on. Any suggestions on additions with the goals of improving build-up, nice feel, brushing characteristics, and what not? I have some violins in the white to do, and I used to have a decent spirit varnish application skill set. No idea whether I still do! But I intend to try it out, anyway. I was thinking a bit of sandarac and mastic, maybe some Venetian turpentine or something like that. Any essential oils be useful? I also have too much polymerized tung oil. Not sure what to use it for. Thanks all.
  2. An observation, at least, suggests building in flexibility. The combination of outline with cross and longitudinal arching makes for more complexity than I can keep in one mental image. Long arch: Neck block and end block have couples rotating towards bridge. Post is pushing down. Stiffest back would be flat sections from post to each end block. Putting in curve gives flexibility. Cross arch: Same thing, if ribs trying to move apart, then S bend gives flexibility. I can draw pictures and arm wave. Probably a great deal more plays into it, but the flexibility of the sh
  3. Worst I've seen was top wood stained metallic green from sweat. I eventually got the crap neutralized and pulled out of the wood, but I'm not sure which of the numerous chemicals really did the job best. Took a long time, and I patched over to match the dark finish because the wood was never going to be quite right. The player apparently went through strings incredibly fast, too!
  4. 1. I am actually attempting to design and build consistent cornerless violins and some DG models. I have a bunch of sets of wood joined, am thicknessing ribs, mulling over design choices based on the Strad cornerless, and am starting to think about mold. I was going to use inside, but am thinking I should make outside mold, pattern for cutting out plates, and generally simplify things. 2. I am making my house better, which is a pain. Currently doing patch and slip work on the drywall, getting ready to be an interior painter. I was really trained at one point, and find the previous
  5. Tough stuff, but one can work through it. I have one cataract, which gives a slight yellow cast, contrasted with the other eye. I've seen a bunch of folks through cataract surgery, amazingly fast and effective. They won't do mine yet, not bad enough. What's really unpleasant are stitches in the eye. I had a growth removed and a graft put in, with stitches in cornea and where the graft came from. Vision so much better, but the whole stitching procedure was highly annoying. That and having some pulled without anesthetic or anything!! Regardless, the things that can be done to
  6. This one runs solo, although I don't notice a passenger. The dog I hit before is still around, unfortunately, and sometimes in the road. Oh well. This bike has a very high road presence, and with a white helmet people think "police" and avoid me. Really works. Does hold my attention, riding a large powerful thing on two wheels, but so does running a jointer! We have a preliminary design for the thinning unit. Have to get a rolling stand for the jointer finished first, and get a new better stand for the sander picked up and installed. Currently held down with C clamps, which wil
  7. If there's any air left it's in the silly master cylinder. I got clean fluid at both front calipers, and the rear brake bled with no trouble at all. Actually, I think I got it. At least it has a nipple at the master cylinder. Has traction control and three throttle maps. I used the rain throttle map yesterday, which really mellow. I normally use the touring map. Doing a couple of long uphills obviously helped the rings seat a little better. Have to do more of that. I noticed that 45 mph on the level leaves the cylinders barely warm to the touch! As to weight, well
  8. That dang master cylinder just held onto air like nobody's business! Still not sure I got it all. Banged it with a screwdriver and everything. At least I got the bike sorted now, see below, and may have figured out an Evan inspired attachment for my belt sander. Just have to find enough odd pieces around to make what I sketched! I'll also build a final scraping jig to keep things even thickness. Here's the new bike in close to final setup: Moto Guzzi California Touring, 1400 cc across mounted V twin, air/oil cooled (10w60 synthetic), dry clutch, six-speed gear box, shaft dr
  9. Stability is interesting. I know how to keep that in control and will do so. Dwight, Del Rio is where my daughter was conceived, I remember the motel well! Thanks for the links. I'll be in Chicago in a month and go see the real thing if they'll let me in. I'll be going by car, so I won't be as road stained as with my usual two wheels! I really would like to look over the arching in real time 3D. Thanks all!
  10. I am going to make a cornerless violin. Any reason not to copy the wide-waisted Stradivari? When the waist narrows, I find they look awkward. Perhaps the wide waist and differently spaced F holes would give a somewhat deeper tone that would please many people not looking for a soloist sound. Comments and suggestions extremely welcome.
  11. Evan and all, thanks. I can probably figure out those pictures tomorrow. 2 beers!
  12. The scraper plane is superlative for the final work. Charlie hasn't quite gotten the hang of it and is still a little slow, but he'll get there. Turned out my Guzzi has a tricky master cylinder that traps air. Lots of tapping with a screwdriver handle and I got all the bubbles out. We actually changed fluid on three bikes today, but the Guzzi is the finest. Like a Maserati Ghibli S mated with a 69 Boss 429 Mustang, had a bitchy out of control daughter who whupped up on everyone, but got sent to finishing school. Iron fist in velvet glove. Torques through the twisties like a sport
  13. That's where we are, more or less. All are sawed already. After trying a variety of thinning methods, we are at 1. No. 80 smooth the face side. 2. Wagner power planer with guide, featherboards etc to 1.5 mm 3. Wagner power planer final cut to 1.25 mm 4. No 80 cabinet scraper to 1.0 - 1.15 range. That seems to work quite well. We may shift to medium drum for the 1.5 to 1.25 step should issues arise. I am wondering how to convert my belt sander into a thickness sander!!!
  14. I have Mr. Charlie here now, eating oatmeal. We'll go pick a plane and notch the blade, get it toasty sharp, and move onward into bulk thinning. I have much more rib than fiddle, so we'll likely do them all and be set for the next batch, assuming I live long enough! Actually, with help things are moving quite smartly. That will slow down when we get to detailed handtool work. We will try: scrape the smooth side smooth, if there is one. Plane the rough side a bit. Hit it on medium sanding drum in drill press (it is a massive ancient thing, and I never do more than just ghost the st