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Everything posted by FiddleDoug

  1. You need to contact an attorney real fast!!! If it was sold to you as a real HOPF, there's fraud involved! IMO, you got taken for over $14,000.
  2. I've seen the commercials! Now you can throw paint, eggs, nails and rocks on your fiddle, and the finish will protect it! When you do the light it on fire test, please video it for us.
  3. Reptile bulbs seem to work pretty well. (limited experience), and you can get some pretty good UVA & UVB for a decent price at your local pet store. - Medium - Specialty - Reptile - LIA Only | *Catch All%2Cutm_campaign%3AGSC - Medium - Specialty - Reptile - LIA Only&utm_id=432|pg1050561881|768756802538&utm_source=google&utm_medium=PLA&gclid=EAIaIQobChM
  4. My gut feeling is that you wouldn't want to compress a hole for a peg bushing. Not because of swelling, but because the compressing might interfere with the glue adhesion in the joint. Compressing when installing new pegs in the bushed hole, yes.
  5. "By the way, please share information about the bow, frequently the bow ages better than the violin " You're kidding, right? Most of the time, the bow has nothing to do with who made the violin, or when.
  6. FiddleDoug


    Looks kind of scary to me!
  7. Take it to a very good violin shop and have them look at it. Where are you located? Perhaps someone here can recommend a place.
  8. And what exact kind of help do you need? Is it broken? Has it been stolen? Are you worried that it's a fake label?
  9. I you read the paragraph in the book carefully, you will note that it says that he "presented his copy violins derived from ---- and were clearly labeled J. B. Vuillaume No 170, etc.". To me, this indicates that he had a whole line of instruments, probably loosely based on the three makers, that were ALL labeled the same. I also seriously doubt that they were made in his shops. They were probably made in other shops, and he stuck his label in them. That also indicates to me that after 1827, there were LOTS of these labels floating around, and there's no reason to doubt that these weren't inclu
  10. I would take that as a no, you've never tried it.
  11. Ever try to do a neck lift on a through-neck violin??? The neck, being glued to the back, and the ribs, doesn't like to move much.
  12. Assuming that you're going to resell it, I would say to ask yourself if it looks good as is, or can you make it look better/more saleable.
  13. Going back ten years:
  14. For the sake of your luthier's bank account, I think that you should go for the new bass bar.
  15. I had a case recently where I opted to put in a shim. The instrument was an old through-neck instrument. Other than a low neck angle, and some pegwork, the instrument was really good (no cracks). It needed a new fingerboard, and I was hoping that I could tip the FB enough to get the angle back up enough. This was not the case. Rather than opening the instrument up, removing the through-neck, adding an upper block, rebuilding the end of the neck, and setting it from scratch, I opted to add a shim. For a dutzenarbeit, need I say more?
  16. We're talking about high pressure ammonia gas, not ammonium hydroxide.
  17. When NaOH (or KOH) are added to wood, it dissolves the lignin, and hemi-celluloses. That's how they make paper. So, it you want to turn your wood into paper pulp, that's the way to do it. Ammonia will work, but it has to be high pressure, anhydrous ammonia gas, in a pressure tank. If you're set up to work with high pressure ammonia gas, and can deal with the toxic gas released when you open the tank, go for it. Household ammonia solutions won't work. You can try putting you plates in manure for a month or two, but you might have trouble selling those instruments.
  18. FiddleDoug


    Without pictures it's a little hard to tell, Here's an auction history for Thompson Brothers instruments:
  19. I would suggest something like a technical drawing pen. You can pick your line width, and make up a guide to maintain distance from the edge.
  20. We're talking about cleaning the crack, not the entire fiddle!! We're also not talking about spraying the whole thing down with detergent, and going after it with a washcloth. Cleaning cracks is a job for Q tips and the like. If you try to glue a dirty crack, you'll never get the dirt out, and it will leave you with a nasty dark crack that will be nearly impossible to retouch, and one that may not stay closed.
  21. As others have said, CA glue in the crack with Ebony sanding dust. The bigger issue is that you're using the wrong tool for shaping the fingerboard. If you just try to sand it, you'll end up chasing your goal. The correct tool is a block plane, and the nut needs to come off to do it.
  22. I would suspect that you would be looking out about 20 years into the future to reach that appraiser goal. I once asked Hans J. Nebel what the best way was to really learn to identify instruments, (books, etc.). I'm 10 years younger than he is. He replied that I would need to get into a time machine, go back about 50 years, and work in a very large violin shop, where I could handle, and work on, thousands of different instruments, under a very knowledgeable master (he worked under Sacconi in the Wurlitzer shop). So, good luck with your goal. You're young enough to actually have a chance o
  23. Who agreed that Maple from Bosnia is the way to go???? There are lots of other sources of good maple, and color doesn't mean anything. Don't believe everything (or anything) that you read!
  24. UV and Nitrite speed up oxidation. This might explain it better:
  25. I'm not really sure about it being Markneukirchen. Violins from MK usually don't have scroll fluting going all the way in. The delta on the back of the scroll also doesn't look quite right (to me). I'll be waiting for Jacob to chime in.