FiddleDoug

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Everything posted by FiddleDoug

  1. It generally looks OK, but you should take it to a luthier for a quick look over, to make sure that the neck, soundpost, pegs, tailgut, and other things are OK. After that, string it up.
  2. She's new, and won't be able to post pictures easily yet. The case is meaningless. George S. Bond was a case manufacturer. The violin is likely to be "the usual", a cottage industry German instrument. Eventually, pictures will tell.
  3. A good use for all those old dust bin candidates.
  4. "An hour for plate casting and correction seems insufficient to me." The hour is only for making the cast, as in something that would be needed for a patch. Correcting the arching is a whole different animal
  5. FiddleDoug

    Casting

    The recent thread about repair of soundpost cracks showed a lot of differences. There were some estimates of 4 hours to do a cast. Quite a while age, I decided to take some other's ideas, and combine some of my own. While I don't do a lot of this work, I made up this "generic" set up, that probably cuts the time to make a cast to about an hour. I demonstrated this at the MCLA workshops a few years ago. Let's see if I can convey this without writing a book. The base is 3/4" plywood, with 4 bolts to act as legs. The form is made of 2" building foam, covered with packing tape to keep the pla
  6. I'm in a low price area, and, since I work out of my home, I don't have the overhead of a shop. As I said, MINIMUM.
  7. I'm not a price guru by any means, but I'd guess $1000 minimum.
  8. I'll agree with that. Lots of poorly repaired pegbox damage, and really funky fluting on the back of the pegbox.
  9. I find it interesting that they purchased this instrument in 1999, and are still trying to prove it. And there's this: "Stewart Pollens, a Stradivarius expert and former conservator of musical instruments at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, said it’s “more likely” the instrument is a commercial copy."
  10. "This instrument was purchased from the estate of P. T. Barnum." That should tell it all.
  11. "Artfully antiqued" ???
  12. Your city or area will have appropriate facilities or organizations that will be in charge of hazardous waste disposal. Ammonium chloride isn't that hazardous, and is used in medicines and fertilizer. If you have goats, you can put it in their feed. https://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=52e38d4c-6a12-4533-98bb-ca8c225ff98f&itemguid=5cd20a0c-79cb-4afe-8171-ab2d0ab489dd&sfb=1&grp=3000&grpc=3600&grpsc=3620&sp=f&utm_content=44359&ccd=IFF003&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt_eaxPbY7gIVBODACh00xwEKEAQYBCABEgI5k_D_BwE
  13. Most of the time, labels don't mean anything. High quality pictures taken according to the guidelines in the post up higher will give a better chance for proper identification. If you're doing that for your "collection", do them one at a time.
  14. Willow and spruce are MUCH easier to work, and probably glue much better.
  15. I did a Google search on "shellac wax varnish", and nothing came up. What exactly are you using?
  16. "Due to circumstances I can't go to any professional schooling, not for the next 7 years at least so... I'm veeeeery limited. I have got plenty of time to learn from YouTube, good books and plenty of trial and error. I would like to even open up the violin, learn the measurements, try varnishing. All on a crappy violin. One time I was sitting for 3 hours just cutting a bridge with a kitchen knife and sanding it down with sandpaper, and sanding down a peg... Silly but I loved sitting over a table and doing it. I cleaned the violin with linseed oil with a rag.. I love the thought of a viol
  17. Don't do it yourself!!!! Retouching is an art, and bad things happen when amateurs try to do it!
  18. You need to follow the guidelines for photography at the top of the forum if you want any chance of identifying the instrument.
  19. Since the OP signs in as "look i am running", here's an appropriate link. https://www.runnersworld.com/advanced/a20793284/neck-alignment-reset/
  20. Here's a wood hardness chart. There aren't too many as hard as Ebony. https://www.precisebits.com/reference/relative_hardness_table.htm
  21. Ditto on that!! "Most student violins do not use ebony, just other woods painted black" Those instruments often don't even rise to the grade of student instruments. I won't stock them, no matter what the price.
  22. I agree with Jeff. Don't mess with the nut/chin orientation. You could try just moving the bridge and sound post south by that 4mm. It will give you the 130mm, but it will mess a bit with the real high positions. That would be a problem with advanced players, but maybe not a country fiddler. If you want it real exact, a neck graft might be best. Bumping an existing neck out by 4mm might be less than ideal. (I've never done one by 4mm)
  23. "In general this board is populated by higher end violin professionals. They mean well, they really do, but asking them about a $100 violin can put them out of their comfort zone." You must be one of those stuck up individuals. I deal with, and work, on this type of instrument all the time. "A DIY "repair" of this Instrument will serve no one well. " Absolutely! Find a good luthier that you can work with. "This is a horrible piece of junk. Cut your losses and ask advice BEFORE you throw your money away. " IMO, for $100, it's not a horrible piece of junk. It looks pret
  24. "but what about it made you think it was off?" Simple! Real HOPFs were not branded, and from your limited photos, the construction appears to be typical of the Marnkeukirchen area instruments from around 1900. There were literally tens of thousands of these made. You should do a search of HOPF violins on Ebay. https://www.si.edu/spotlight/violins/hopf