FiddleDoug

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Everything posted by FiddleDoug

  1. So Mat, From what I understand, Canada is still in a pretty severe draconian lockdown, with police shutting things down, and fining people. I just looked up your Covid positivity rate, and it's 2.4%. Over here, across the lake, in NY, we've been coming out of lockdowns for several weeks, with partial indoor dining, and most other thing at least partially open (gyms, fitness facilities, bars, schools) and our positivity rate is 1.5% and still dropping. We still wear masks, and some vaccinations are happening. What are you doing wrong? Since the vaccine is only 95% effective, will that be g
  2. OK, we've been dealing with this for a year. Has there ever been a documented case of someone catching Covid from a musical instrument? Are there any cases of Covid in the school system? You don't have to put a violin or viola up to your face to tune it. It can be done with the instrument sitting on a pad on a table. Sanitize hands before and after working on the instruments, let the sanitizer dry before touching the instruments, don't touch your face. All should be fine. Around here, the positivity rate for people tested for Covid is only 1.5%. Get your life back!
  3. Plate shrinkage is usually the cause. Bruce mentions opening the seams, and IF the rib is flexy enough, redistributing the bulge back in , and over the whole bout. I haven't had too much luck with this, and I find that often the old ribs get pretty stiff. Shortening the ribs is not trivial, and usually involves removing the top so that you can soak the ribs loose from the end block. You then shorten the ribs a little, cut back the linings to fit the end block, and gluing everything back together. Re-drill the end pin hole, and set the instrument up. As for it happening to your instrument-
  4. They also add a lot of weight to the end of the neck. Not something that a lot of players like.
  5. What are the current measurements for bridge height, etc.? Raising the bridge any significant amount will raise the strings and make it harder to play. You could "preview this for your customer by putting some spacers under the bridge feet, and have them play it. (Don't pay attention to the sound with this, only the playing action)
  6. Black spruce is usually a pretty scruffy tree that grows in kind of boggy areas. You'd be really lucky to find one big enough to cut for tone wood. With the right grain structure and density, White spruce would probably be OK. I don't have personal experience with it, but spruce woods are often fairly similar.
  7. That's a beautiful instrument! A did a quick search and probably came up with the same auction result that you did ($1380 in 2006). Seeing as how we're 15 years later, the condition and looks of the instrument, and the fact professional players like playing it (that's also one of my indicators), you might push towards $10K on that one. JMHO, and I'm no expert.
  8. The bridge doesn't really have anything to do with the origin of a violin, and the Chinese have tanks also.
  9. Is there any possibility that someone may have already put a pin down the center of the stick in that area? There appears to be a little difference in the finish in that area. As for recambering, I was warned that it can go very wrong, very fast, and that any clients wanting their bow recambered need to be warned of that possibility.
  10. You will be disappointed with Red Labels. Personally, I have had good life with Zyex strings.
  11. Please document or enumerate that method used in Europe. Thanks
  12. If a really good bowmaker who teaches bow restoration tells, and teaches me to use alcohol followed by a thin French polish, that's what I am going to do. I will respect opinions from professionals, but not so much speculation from others.
  13. I was taught (by a very good bowmaker) to use alcohol to clean the stick, followed by a light French polish. If the hair is still good, don't get alcohol on it as it will turn the rosin on the hair into a solid mass. I'd love to hear from the bowmakers on this.
  14. Pretty nice! Can you get those at Harbor Freight? Seriously, who has the money or room for something like that?
  15. "I have to find a magnetic/ heat plate, for lab use in order to have stirring and stable/even heating in the same time. " If you do that, you'll need to go with a glass covered magnet bar. The usual Teflon ones won't stand that temperature. I would also question stirring anything with any viscosity that way. The motors/magnets don't have a lot of power.
  16. "Is the solution to buy a flask with a NS 29/32 joint?" I spent 34 years as a chemist. I would worry about the joint seizing up if any rosin/varnish gets into it. If you're worried about oxygen getting into it, why not just blanket it with N2 (rent a small cylinder). Geigenbauer has good suggestions.
  17. Your first problem is that your 280 C is 536 F, and your cork will burn. You can measure the temperature inside the flask with a temperature probe, but without stirring, the temperature of a viscous fluid will be uneven, and will be much hotter at the bottom. I doubt that the IR thermometer would give useful results.
  18. I would say that if you're not already a good luthier, your chances of pulling this off as a DIY project are very slim.
  19. The case is usually not related to the violin. If you want any reasonable chance of identifying the where or when of a violin, you should post a series of high quality pictures following the guidelines at the top of the page. https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/333119-how-to-photograph-an-instrument-for-identifcation-purposes/
  20. That is interesting. I have a whole bag of old pegs that I'll sell you for $1 each plus shipping. I will warn you that I can pretty much guarantee that none would be usable.
  21. Can you provide something to support this??
  22. Not a chance! Brad could spot that from across a gym.
  23. Back in the old days,(pre 2005) when I was working for Kodak, they owned a gelatin plant in Peabody, MA. I was doing analytical chemistry back then, and one of the things that I analyzed occasionally was that gelatin. I got a pretty good understanding of the whole process. As the hides (or bones) are cooked and extracted, the best gelatin comes off first, then in subsequent cooks, other grades of gelatin come off, and finally the hide glue "dregs". The photographic grade gelatin made the food grade gelatin look like garbage. Since Fuji was a major competitor back then, we always joked about sp