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Everything posted by FiddleDoug

  1. I hate to ask, but is that a chunk of 2x8? The grain is pretty uneven. I typically use something a bit more even. I have some cut off ends from bass bar blanks that make nice cleats. I have also used spruce guitar bracing that has nice straight even grain. The Triangle Strings tutorial makes nice diamond shaped cleats. I have a tendency to make rectangular ones. Either are OK.
  2. I thought that was when you do things like cross a cello with a violin to get a viola.
  3. Might as well do a whole new instrument. Tell the customer that it will cost $100,000 (cash up front of course!) and you might be able to get it done in a year or two, or so, with no guarantees (written, signed by him) on future market value, how it will sound, or how it will look. Next move? Or you could just laugh him out of the shop!
  4. Rachelle, I think that the problem is- "I personally think you know a whole lot of it, 3 years will be a waste of time.". I have never been to "violin school", but I do have quite a few years attending restoration workshops. From what I'm seeing of his work, he's probably not qualified to test out of the first two years. I think that he also has somewhat unrealistic views of expectations and his talents. He comments- "The last two they (his friends) commented on how well they were sounding when compared to the earlier models. ". That doesn't say much, as he comments that his first on
  5. Your idea of a basic skill set may be quite different from what a violin making school considers to be a basic skill set. One thing that I'm pretty sure of is that you'll be starting from the ground up, having to prove you skill to the teachers (to their satisfaction, not yours) at every step along the way. In those schools it will be pretty much "their way, or the highway".
  6. I can see the furniture building influence in your work. Best go to school, or at least get a violin maker mentor.
  7. You might have opened a seam, cracked a rib, or broken the endblock loose inside the instrument. Time to take it in for a checkup!
  8. I asked earlier if you had your violins evaluated or critiqued by a reputable person. You replied that you had professional violinists say that they sounded nice. That's not what I meant! Have you had a reputable violin maker critique your instruments? I too can make very nice furniture, but I wouldn't dream of calling myself a violin maker. We still haven't seen any pictures of your violins. If you don't value the opinions that you're getting here, why stay?
  9. So your "training and highly developed hand skills" have helped you build 10 violins! Has anybody reputable taken a look at your violins, and critiqued them? If not, you should have that done, and it may give you the answer to your question.
  10. I don't think that you're understanding the listings. I checked them out, and they are "fluorescence" (UV LED) lights, not fluorescent, lights.
  11. Clear and stiff but flexible.
  12. I've never heard that you can dilute CA glue. The stuff I'm using is a solvent based clear adhesive.
  13. It can be if used in excess, without proper ventilation. I spent 34 years as a chemist, so I'm well aware of the dangers and proper procedures. Why did I use xylene? Well, if you look at the label on the cement, it lists Xylene as the primary solvent, with naptha as the secondary. We're talking about less than 1 mL of solvent.
  14. Thanks for all the suggestions! The bow is back to the client! I guess that I ended up doing a combination. I first stabilized things with a little CA glue, and then overcoated the wire with a little thinned, clear adhesive (Super Glue brand Fix All Adhesive -good stuff- from the dollar store, thinned with a little Xylene). I should be fine for a back up bow. I did order a little 1/2" clear heat shrink tubing, in case this comes up in the future
  15. I'm looking for some experience based options. I have a client, who has brought in an inexpensive bow (high school daughter's). I just rehaired it for them not too long ago, but the wire wrap (plated copper wire) has started to come a little loose. I have told them that it's probably not worth the cost for me to redo the wrap and grip, when I can sell them a decent student bow for not much more. They are buying a bow, but they would like to keep the old bow as a back up. I'd like to stabilize the wire wrap. My first thought is to just put a wrap of decent clear tape around it, but I want to ch
  16. "The plate of this violin does not lie 100% flat for example - it is slightly concave." It's good practice to keep the plate clamped to a flat surface when off of the instrument. Things can get kind of twisty at times if you don't. Mine is made out if 3/16" (about 5mm) aluminum plate.
  17. "If the neck angle is increased I suppose it must mean that the top plate is under more compression lengthwise than before or being stretched less?" No, you just glued it on wrong. Why do you think that the top is under any compression or tension when glued to a static, unstressed set of ribs? When you glue the top on, you often have to tweak the top north/south a fraction of a mm to get the flex in the rib garland to hold the neck angle correctly. Likewise, you need to pay attention to side to side movement. Time to take the top off again and re-do it.
  18. A couple of questions: Did you remove the bass bar, or work around it? When you glued the top back on, did you check the neck angle? If you didn't pay attention to the neck angle when you glued the top on, then that's your answer. I also think that you made it too thin in the middle. I think that 3.5mm should be closer to what you want across the whole f-hole area. If the bass bar and soundpost are in place, I seriously doubt that "the thinner deck must be compressed more by the string pressure".
  19. A nice example of what appears to be a Markneukirchen area cottage industry violin. It looks to be in very good shape. Not sure about the date made, but probably pre-WWII.
  20. Well, that would make the cost of the wood pretty unimportant, wouldn't it.
  21. He bought batches of the labels already printed.
  22. I was also taught (and use) the 1/7, upper and lower bout method. It works well, and why change it.
  23. Since this stuff is really off topic, perhaps we should cut the discussion. One last thing to look at. Around here, there was not the feared "bump from the Christmas/New Years holidays. There has been a steady decline for the whole of 2021. Check your own area. Continue to take precautions, but be wary of what the government tells you (about anything). I've had my first vaccination, and I hardly even felt the microchips going in.
  24. Looks like your area is at 6% positivity?? Stay safe!