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FiddleDoug

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Everything posted by FiddleDoug

  1. I’m going to guess that it was made by a rank amateur who knew very little about violin making. I’m also going to guess that if you’re trying to get it back to playing condition, you’re going to to find other “non-standard” things that might be problematic.
  2. The ground/sealer can often change the color of the wood. Since you've already got the brush in it, why not seal everything?
  3. I'm also a woodworker, and I can do better than that on me table saw. As has been said, no light shining through, and no tool marks. A very sharp, long (12" +) hand plane, also knows as a jointer plane, will give a very smooth surface.
  4. "I can do on a belt sander in 30 seconds what one could spend an hour or so with the traditional tools. So, the obvious question is... why not a belt sander?" If it takes you an hour to plane and rough trim a bridge, you're doing something wrong. We've seen the quality of the work on you're belt sanded bridges, so that should be answer enough. You don't really address fitting the bridge feet with the belt sander, so here's an addition to your tool arsenal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1XXuo3hv6U
  5. I think that your analysis is pretty close. Here's a thought. How about applying some carbon fibers AFTER the bridge is trimmed and fitted. Rather than putting carbon fiber over the whole faces, what about adding some strips a carbon tow (thin ribbon, like you see in woven fabric), front and back? The stuff is really strong, and it might not take much to do it. Excuse my mouse drawing skills, but something like this:
  6. Are you sure that you have your species correct?? Acer pseudoplatanus is widely used for violins, and grows big (66-115 ft. tall). Norway maple, Acer platanoides, is a different species that shares a similar range. It's planted as an ornamental in the US, and I've never seen it in our forests. Your reference to White Ash, makes me think that you're in the US, and makes me curious as to why you didn't try Sugar Maple (hard maple). Silver Maple is usually considered to be a pretty crappy soft maple. And Don is correct. Your bridge is a brick ( the holes look similar! )
  7. "If a kid is on a track to going to college for a performance degree, then the 3K difference we are talking about compared with the other costs- lessons, summer camps, pre-college program etc.. is negligible." I would contend that no 11 year old is on track for anything! A lot can happen in the 7 years between 11, and when they graduate from high school at about 18. She might decide that she wants to become a doctor, dentist, plumber or electrician, or any other career where she can make more money than a musician!
  8. I assume that you’re buying from a local shop. One thing that you might want to find out is if the teacher gets a kick back from the shop. It’s something that is apparently somewhat common, that I find troubling. I think that 5K ought to be OK through high school,
  9. "the two halves are very offset in time, the bass side ending at 1626 and the treble side, whose overlapping section with the bass shows very good correspondence, ends much later at 1736." The dendro only shows that the wood in the analyzed section was growing during that period of time. It doesn't tell when the tree was cut down, or when the violin was built. If that particular tree started growing in 1550, and was cut down in 1750, it could easily span all of that. A little shift in the cut of one half to avoid a knot or defect could easily result in the age shift. You could easily take an old beam from a mountain chalet, and make a violin from it , that would appear to be a couple hundred years old from the dendro. This is not saying that dendro is a problem, as most of the old violin makers would have just used "new", seasoned wood, but just like anything else, devious people can do devious things.
  10. You could wipe down the inside with a bleach solution to kill the mold. After the bleach is dried, you could also wet it down with a borax solution and let it dry. The borax will prevent mold from growing back.
  11. I didn't know, so I looked it up. 55cm(22") x 35cm(13") x 25cm(9.8") Since the max length for European cabin baggage is 55-56 cm, and a 4/4 violin is about 23 inches, I seriously doubt that you'll find anything. Now to be a little more positive, I did a little more searching, and found these on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/120849050706?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818143230%26meid%3D4b01b513814048738b739d942f366550%26pid%3D101224%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D120859624709%26itm%3D120849050706%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c101224.m-1 A couple inches over length, but otherwise might work.
  12. Josh Henry is also a very talented bow person. https://www.fineviolinbows.com/
  13. I have one with similar vertical "flame" on the back. Interesting, but unconventional, and even though it's a very nice instrument, hard to sell.
  14. Ditto on that! The fingerboard has already been wedged (with a pretty thick wedge!), and has come loose again. That means a total rebuild of the neck area and removal of the wedge. The pegbox also needs major work. Right now, it looks like the fingerdoard is sitting right on the body, too low to even do a set up to make it playable. We're talking about $1000+ in work to get it playable. I would just clean it up, and keep it as a nice memento of your Grandfather.
  15. The stamp on a bridge most often has nothing to do with the marker.
  16. Your pictures are pretty poor quality, but I'll stick my neck out and say that it's a pretty standard cottage industry from the Markneukirchen area, from the early 1900's. Certainly not Guarnari! Yours appears to be in pretty decent condition, and could be worth a few hundred dollars.
  17. It really doesn’t do much other than seal the wood. The cooler and chatoyence will come in with the varnish.
  18. I think that the Government has some tiny secret ones that will track. I've heard rumors about ones being injected with the Covid vaccines. (I hardly felt the chips going in!) Oh wait, they don't need chips to track us. Everyone is carrying around a smart phone with a tracker built in!
  19. The tiny chips that they put into dogs and such, can't be used to locate things. They can only identify things when they are scanned up close. Anything GPS or networked. has to have a power source. This works fine for bigger equipment like phones, trucks, etc., but not this.
  20. I'm very familiar with the quality and types of wood available at the stores you mentioned, and I think that it's quite unlikely that you'll find much, if anything that could be used. The cut of the wood is important, and is generally quarter cut. While you might find the occasional board that is more or less quarter cut, they are rare. The grain of the softwoods is also going to be too wide. Maple for the back and ribs will also be harder to find. Just get some decent wood from good suppliers. Some with minor grain defects, or unfigured is going to be the least expensive.
  21. I once had an old MK instrument that someone had over varnished with PU varnish. It didn't stick well, and I literally had to peel this overcoat off the whole instrument.
  22. I have one of those soundpost setters. It can be of minimal help, but you have to be very lucky to have it get your soundpost in the final correct position. Even if I use it, I always have to adjust angle, fit, and position. A VSO is a violin shaped object. Generally something that looks like a violin, but in reality, is pretty much garbage. See my previous link. .
  23. I was referring to unfinished (not painted or varnished) violins. With those, you can see the quality of the wood. With the cheapo painted ones, you can't see what kind of God awful wood was used. My bottom standard for anything that I would sell, includes ebony FB and fittings. The dyed "hardwood" fittings on the cheap VSOs are impossible to do anything with.
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