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FiddleDoug

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Everything posted by FiddleDoug

  1. Thickness is measured from the inside surface to the outside surface. Why would it matter if the caliper was on the inside or outside??
  2. I would dry it in a glass dish (not plastic) at not over 150C for 24 hours. Back in my chemistry days, I would have put it in a vacuum oven at 110C for 24 hrs.
  3. It doesn’t need to be neutralized for violin purposes unless you lick your violins a lot, or perhaps if you were spraying a finish. I suppose if you got it on your hands it might be a problem, as it does leave a bitter residue after the alcohol evaporates. The neutralized solvent doesn’t leave the residue.
  4. The Weisshar & Shipman, is a restoration book, not a violin making book. Big difference!
  5. I have also started using the bio ethanol fuel. The Bitrex can be neutralized with a tiny amount of bleach [see previous threads or Google]. The fuel is easy to buy online, either through places like Amazon, or directly from the manufacturer, such as Regal Flame.
  6. As soon as you open the bottle of 200 proof, it’s no longer 200 proof. The stuff absorbs water like crazy.
  7. 60% ethanol! You got the cheap stuff! The good Everclear is 95%. You can do a google search on French Polish, and you’ll find, like Brad said, it’s shellac, on a “tampon” with a little oil. The oil keeps the “tampon: from sticking.
  8. The Caspari pegs aren’t a direct replacement with ANY normal peg. They aren’t reamed to the correct angle. I have dealt with the Caspari pegs, and you’ll have to bush the peg holes and ream them to the correct angle to use regular pegs, Pegheads, or Wittner pegs. Considering your limited experience, and the multiple issues, a trip to a luthier is probably worthwhile.
  9. That's a mess!! I guess that if I were to do a real budget salvage job on that, I would make some kind of counter form, inside and our, fitted to the good rib, to hold things in place while the glue sets. I would also consider using 1/32" birch plywood instead of rib material. It bends nicely in one direction (curve of the rib), and is stiffer in the other (across the rib). You wouldn't have to worry about preforming the rib overlay, or cracking it. https://www.misterart.com/crafts/model-making/balsa-basswood/sid~46997~/midwest-thin-birch-plywood.html You may also be able to find this at local hobby/model stores.
  10. We've all found that labels don't necessarily mean anything when it comes to the fiddle that they're attached to. Let's see some good pictures of the instrument.
  11. Very common. Also at the neck end. These can be a pain in the butt when removing the plates.
  12. That's pretty nuts, especially for the neck block. If you set a neck into it there wouldn't be much left.
  13. I agree with Brad. I don't have a water cooled wheel. I do rough grinding with a white aluminum oxide wheel on a bench grinder, with proper rests, and being careful not to overheat the steel. There are lots of videos on Youtube, about tuning the plane body, and tuning the plane is critical for getting the best performance. What are you using for sharpening now? If you're not a master at sharpening, you're putting yourself at a real disadvantage.
  14. Veritas makes some very nice replacement blades for planes. I have a couple in my planes, and I highly recommend them. There are two other important factors! The plane body must be properly fettled (tuned), and the blade must be properly sharpened. Skimp on any of these, and you’re not getting the best out of it.
  15. The fingerboard looks pretty trashed, and will either need work or replacement. The neck angle may also be too low. I think it may have come from the morgue at the violin hospital.
  16. For our new member, that translates to a Markneukirchen area mass produced fiddle, from a hundred or so years ago. Some value, but not a lot.
  17. Yes, a good set of pictures is needed for us to make a good guess at it. Please see the post at the top on how to photograph an instrument for identification. If you're basing your identification on a label inside, be prepared to be disappointed.
  18. Since I'm not clairvoyant, and not very good at doing out of body experiences to examine instruments, you should get it in hand, and take it to a good luthier for an evaluation. Only he/she will be able to give you a proper idea of whether or not you should get it fixed up, and how much it will cost.
  19. You can pretty easily make your own hair gauge. Just take a piece of plastic, like a plastic ruler, and make a hacksaw cut about an inch into it. V out the cut opening, and smooth the cut and V with some very fine sandpaper. Take your 120 hair bundle, and slide it into the slot. Mark where it comes to, and there's your hair gauge. You can also mark it for other size bows.
  20. Dangerous position? How about laying loose in the instrument?
  21. Would they have to go under the fingerboard? Where would you put the extra pegs?
  22. "he said his premium bows are gold mounted." Would those be his premium (priced) bows? Mount diamonds in the frog eyes, and you could really get the price up there!
  23. Ditto on what Dave said. There is also included the "cottage industry" part of it, where part time workers made parts, and sold them "by the dozen" (dutzendarbeit = dozen work) to the "factories" where they were assembled and finished. Hundreds of thousands of instruments were made and sold like that.
  24. That doesn't sound too unreasonable to me. It's been a while since I've done one. I actually enjoy fitting bass bars.
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