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About FiddleDoug

  • Birthday November 28

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    Hilton, NY

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  1. Since I'm not clairvoyant, and not very good at doing out of body experiences to examine instruments, you should get it in hand, and take it to a good luthier for an evaluation. Only he/she will be able to give you a proper idea of whether or not you should get it fixed up, and how much it will cost.
  2. You can pretty easily make your own hair gauge. Just take a piece of plastic, like a plastic ruler, and make a hacksaw cut about an inch into it. V out the cut opening, and smooth the cut and V with some very fine sandpaper. Take your 120 hair bundle, and slide it into the slot. Mark where it comes to, and there's your hair gauge. You can also mark it for other size bows.
  3. Dangerous position? How about laying loose in the instrument?
  4. Would they have to go under the fingerboard? Where would you put the extra pegs?
  5. "he said his premium bows are gold mounted." Would those be his premium (priced) bows? Mount diamonds in the frog eyes, and you could really get the price up there!
  6. Ditto on what Dave said. There is also included the "cottage industry" part of it, where part time workers made parts, and sold them "by the dozen" (dutzendarbeit = dozen work) to the "factories" where they were assembled and finished. Hundreds of thousands of instruments were made and sold like that.
  7. That doesn't sound too unreasonable to me. It's been a while since I've done one. I actually enjoy fitting bass bars.
  8. I'm a Harbor Freight guy on occasion. You can get 2" dia. saws at HF: https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-3-2-inch-cut-off-wheels-42805.html I'm pretty sure that this arbor holds the saw: https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-cut-off-wheel-arbor-for-die-grinder-64674.html I also have one of the HF cross slide vises. Here's a jig that I made to hold the bow:
  9. Do it with the mill/drill/vice, not the Dremel and hand saw. Once the CA is set, that's no need to clamp.
  10. I picked up one similar to that, and find that it works OK. With that geometry, you have to set the blade to act more like a scraper. You could also raise the blade up with aluminum shims if you wanted to change the geometry.
  11. I've searched for that type of clamp also, without success. You can always revert back to the cloths pin type, or small spring clamps from Harbor Freight.
  12. He did say " Ball park figure how much will it be for a luthier to set it up to get its best sound out of it.", not hack away at it himself. I seriously doubt that an untrained person could ever get "its best sound out of it"!
  13. A spline would be the correct way to do it, but if you don't have the proper equipment/fixtures for doing it, you risk really messing it up.
  14. That's a bit of a loaded question. The cost of a set of violin strings can range widely! A quick search on Amazon shows prices from 3 for $10, to $140. Tailpiece costs will also vary widely. Bridge blanks can be just a few $ or up to maybe $30-40, and then there's the cost of getting it cut to fit. You mention that the violin has pegs, but you don't know if they work. When everything is added up, the cost might be as low as $150, or if you go whole hog, several hundred $. The only way to figure it out is to take it to a luthier, and discuss the options.
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