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About FiddleDoug

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  • Birthday November 28

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    Hilton, NY

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  1. Here's how to do it.
  2. Yes, 60 degrees is way too steep. I sharpen my axes to a lower angle than that. Also, your sharpened section is way too long. You probably don't need more than about 30-35mm sharpened for a 12mm blade. Having too long a sharpened section exposes you to a cutting hazard if you choke up on the handle to make use of the curved section.. Note: I sharpen masonry cold chisels to about your 60 deg angle. I sharpen my axes to about 25-30 degrees total angle (I can slice paper or shave with my axes.). My violin knives are probably in the 25 degree range.
  3. I did look up the Magic Cover book cover (they also sell loths of other shelf, drawer and window coverings). There appears to be an equivalent product available from Staples (office supplies), and I suspect that most office supply stores would also have some kind of removable book/document cover. Removable is the key! I had to remove some polyurethane from an instrument one time. Retouch varnish wouldn't stick to it, and I literally had to peel the polyurethane off the other varnish, and it took some of the varnish with it. It was a mess! Don't do it!
  4. Poly urethane is a bad idea. Once you put it on, you're likely to be screwed for any future work needed. A better idea is to put something removable over the area. I've heard of things like plastic shelf liner being used. Water/oil proof, and it comes off easy if no longer needed, or needs replacement, or if work needs to be done on the instrument.
  5. Pay attention to Jacob!! Even I can see the typical Mk. signs. These instruments often have false blocks, so, unless you have had the top off, the blocks aren't for sure. One piece plates don't mean anything.
  6. Setting necks requires many, many, very tiny adjustments , on many surfaces. You are trying to get three angles, and two distances to all come together to the correct final result. This means taking 0.01mm or so at a time, to make slight adjustments to the angles and distances. You need to start with the neck bigger than final, and the mortise smaller than final.
  7. FiddleDoug


    You really need to take it to a luthier. Trying to get us to diagnose problems, and there may be several, is difficult. Having you, without knowledge or experience, fix it is even more so.
  8. I'm in the Rochester, NY area (actually grew up in the city), and I've never heard of him (her?). Must not have been very prolific, or well known.
  9. Since it's depositing borax into the wood, (to deter insects) not dissolving anything out of the wood, I can't imagine how it would make it lighter.
  10. We can't identify anything from the photos that you provided. Please read the sticky above on photography for identifying, and provide the appropriate clear photos.
  11. Why do you say Italian? I'm hardly and expert, and could very well be way wrong, but I think that I see some Saxon characteristics.
  12. Having never heard of liquid hard oil,I did a Google on it. Best that I could come up with is linseed oil. If that's it, you should do a search on linseed oil. Generally not recommended as it penetrates too deep. I've heard of case where it penetrated all the way to the inside of the front plate. Not a good thing! If you're using it over a sealed surface, maybe.
  13. French polishing does not appreciably dissolve/relocate varnish. It applies a VERY thin layer of shellac over everything. No color is added. You would be amazed what a real retouching artist can do. I've seen Hans J. Nebel retouch repairs worse than that, and it's really hard to tell where the repair was. He might charge 5-10K to do that(just a guess on my part). But he's not working on low end instruments. My work isn't in the same class, and I charge appropriately
  14. As a beginner, with no tools, you shouldn't try this yourself! You risk messing thing s up to the point where a repair would cost way more than the original job would cost. Take it to a good luthier.
  15. One thing about arching correction is that it takes a lot of time (weeks to months) of holding the plate in the correct configuration to get it to hold that shape. The casts, multiple or not, are a good, stable way to hold a shape.