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About FiddleDoug

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  • Birthday November 28

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    Hilton, NY

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  1. That is one pretty ugly beast. The replacement neck is the best part.
  2. A good 14" bandsaw is a great tool! Enough power to do most things, large enough for a great variety of work, and a huge variety of available blades. Avoid the little tabletop 3-wheeled saws! They have very short blade life due to metal fatigue from the blade bending around the smaller wheels.
  3. " Hi Fiddledoug; I'm with you on steps one and two... but since the lower bouts would already be open, and very into the Cs (or easily could be opened that far if needed), I'd use the method described in the link I supplied rather than trying to position the cleats through the ffs on a box already glued back together. Easier to clean things (glue) up around the cleats with some access from the lower bout as well. " Hi Jeffrey, I did read your link, but I guess that it wasn't clear to me exactly how far open you have to spring open the top (gap mm?), and what kind of clamps you're using to clamp through that gap. Thanks!
  4. You can buy clamps that allow you glue cleats through the f holes. I actually made a couple of longer ones that can reach just about anywhere. I suppose that if I was doing a budget repair on this, I would: 1) Release the top from the lower bouts to see if there was a chance of clamping the crack back together. 2) Carefully remove the wood pin. 3) Attempt to clamp the crack back together. 4) If successful, glue the crack, and clamp closed. 5) Glue some cleats through the f holes. 6) Re-glue the top.
  5. Are they bojangles, or regular ones?
  6. Between the crack in the stick, and the fact that the tongue is broken off of the frog, it would cost quite a bit to repair.
  7. Why do you think that it's 18th century Cremonese? There were a limited number of luthiers in Cremona in the 18th century, and I think that all of their existing instruments have probably been well cataloged. Let's see the rest of the instrument.
  8. In case Deans answer wasn't clear, it's not really a HOPF. It's just a run of the mill "workshop" violin.
  9. WHAT DID STRADIVARI DO WHEN THE POWER WENT OUT? " I did have a 60 amp charger installed at both my house and workshop to charge my car. Anyway to run a generator in through that with a male-to-make connector and just flip the main breaker off so it doesn’t feed back into the outside lines? " No, you can't backfeed through the charger!!
  10. You actually paid money for that??? Quite a few members here have picked up better stuff from garbage heaps.
  11. FiddleDoug


    It requires UV light to cure. That means that it can't be used for any internal defects like splits. UV light probably wouldn't go through a bow tip either. I used to use something like that for glass assembly, and it wouldn't work for black glass.
  12. I'm no expert in the market, but I think that any violins in the price range that you're looking are not going to be by individual, named, makers. They're probably all going to be some kind of workshop violins. With that, the condition of the individual violin is going to be what you need to look at. The playability and sound are very important. Rather than looking for a specific violin, you need to take your daughter, and visit some shops, so that she can play them. I good shop will also have bows to try. Don't overlook carbon bows- some of them are very good
  13. If you have to ask, you might not be able to afford it. Probably more than $1K.
  14. One thing to keep in mind when checking, or correcting flatness on a plane, is that the blade needs to be in place (raised up of course!), and properly tensioned. The planed body can go off a bit if not under tension. I use a granite block, with increasing grit sized paper, lightly adhered with spray adhesive. I go up to about 1000 grit.
  15. It has probably never even traveled through France. It's the usual "German" stuff.