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About FiddleDoug

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  1. It’s a synthetic clay type material that forms a gel with water. It will stay put on a surface to soften glue, or for cleaning.
  2. Does anyone have any mixing instructions for Laponite?
  3. They’re mechanical friction pegs (not geared). Grover/Champions, or similar.
  4. Thickness is measured from the inside surface to the outside surface. Why would it matter if the caliper was on the inside or outside??
  5. I would dry it in a glass dish (not plastic) at not over 150C for 24 hours. Back in my chemistry days, I would have put it in a vacuum oven at 110C for 24 hrs.
  6. It doesn’t need to be neutralized for violin purposes unless you lick your violins a lot, or perhaps if you were spraying a finish. I suppose if you got it on your hands it might be a problem, as it does leave a bitter residue after the alcohol evaporates. The neutralized solvent doesn’t leave the residue.
  7. The Weisshar & Shipman, is a restoration book, not a violin making book. Big difference!
  8. I have also started using the bio ethanol fuel. The Bitrex can be neutralized with a tiny amount of bleach [see previous threads or Google]. The fuel is easy to buy online, either through places like Amazon, or directly from the manufacturer, such as Regal Flame.
  9. As soon as you open the bottle of 200 proof, it’s no longer 200 proof. The stuff absorbs water like crazy.
  10. 60% ethanol! You got the cheap stuff! The good Everclear is 95%. You can do a google search on French Polish, and you’ll find, like Brad said, it’s shellac, on a “tampon” with a little oil. The oil keeps the “tampon: from sticking.
  11. The Caspari pegs aren’t a direct replacement with ANY normal peg. They aren’t reamed to the correct angle. I have dealt with the Caspari pegs, and you’ll have to bush the peg holes and ream them to the correct angle to use regular pegs, Pegheads, or Wittner pegs. Considering your limited experience, and the multiple issues, a trip to a luthier is probably worthwhile.
  12. That's a mess!! I guess that if I were to do a real budget salvage job on that, I would make some kind of counter form, inside and our, fitted to the good rib, to hold things in place while the glue sets. I would also consider using 1/32" birch plywood instead of rib material. It bends nicely in one direction (curve of the rib), and is stiffer in the other (across the rib). You wouldn't have to worry about preforming the rib overlay, or cracking it. https://www.misterart.com/crafts/model-making/balsa-basswood/sid~46997~/midwest-thin-birch-plywood.html You may also be able to find this at local hobby/model stores.
  13. We've all found that labels don't necessarily mean anything when it comes to the fiddle that they're attached to. Let's see some good pictures of the instrument.
  14. Very common. Also at the neck end. These can be a pain in the butt when removing the plates.
  15. That's pretty nuts, especially for the neck block. If you set a neck into it there wouldn't be much left.
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