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About FiddleDoug

  • Birthday November 28

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    Hilton, NY

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  1. There appears to be quite a bit of gluing surface there, so it should be pretty easy to glue, with hide glue, after the crack is cleaned out. A little linen reinforcement across the inner surface wouldn't hurt. Restoration of the outer surface might be more difficult, and should probably be done by an expert.
  2. "I once had a table split after the RH went up to 60 and then back down to the low 40s-. " I think that your table must have had other problems, like poorly seasoned wood, or non-sliding cross braces. In one of my other lives, I build furniture, and have never had anything split. Many people's houses run (not recommended) from low teens %RH in the winter, to really high humidity in the summer, without having their furniture split apart. Unless you have some kind of super controlled house, your humidity range almost certainly exceeds a 30-60% range. Historically, temperature and humidity control is a pretty recent development. Strad was pretty much at the mercy of the environment. Expecting to tightly control the humidity of a working instrument is a fools errand. The 40-60% RH is a nice goal for storage, but when it's out being played, anything goes.
  3. Seeing that instruments are not assembled instantaneously, trying to pin down the RH that the instrument was assembled at is a fruitless exercise. I don’t know anyone that recommends a 30-40% range.40-60% RH would be more typical.
  4. There are probably hundreds of wood carving videos on Youtube. Perhaps you should look there.
  5. I'll agree with Brad on that. The surface of the part of the fingerboard in the picture appears to be in pretty poor condition, and could use planing. For a violinist, the condition, and shape of the FB would trump inlays any day of the week.
  6. "I am not a luthier and I could do a cello bridge "while you wait."" The big question is- what kind of quality is your "while you wait" cello bridge??? It probably takes me about 45 min. to do a nice quality bridge for a violin. I suppose that you could call up a shop, and say "I want to reserve a luthier for an hour, to make a bridge, at 2pm on Tuesday" You could then give them your credit card info, so that if you don't show, they can charge you (like missed doctor's appointments). Rates are probably $70/hr or so.
  7. A good part of it depends on what the strings are wound with, and the construction of the core. https://www.pirastro.com/public_pirastro/pages/en/Core-Materials/
  8. I'll sell you some for half that!
  9. I use a weak Sodium Nitrite solution to "age" wood. This goes on colorless, and over an hour or so, darkens slightly. I make my own, but you can buy it as this: https://www.cremonatools.com/joha-water-stain-liquid-421-antique-stain-250ml.html
  10. As long as the revenooers don't catch you, you might be OK.
  11. Anything that you do to it will not decrease the value. Aggressive cleaning would be the was to go. An alcohol dilution would probably work OK for you. I, personally, would have a tendency to use something stronger, but I know what to expect from it, and it could, if not used carefully, ruin the underlying layers. I would also caution against a total revarnish. Done poorly it could look worse than the original.
  12. The feet are done with the strings off, but at least the E and G strings are on when the height and curve of the bridge are done.
  13. "I saw a video of a luthier using one and it looked like a great idea. His was aluminum" The plastic ones should work. I have made a couple out of polycarbonate. I have a very nice aluminum one stamped "Rembert Wurlitzer NY" That I consider to be a prized possession. Who knows, one of the pioneers of restoration might have used it!
  14. I've seen some school instruments come in that have been "touched up" with magic markers or Sharpies. It's very seldom a good thing.
  15. Ditto on that! You have to ask - pre fitted to what? Even bridges with adjustable feet don't really fit. All bridges are blanks, and have to be cut for shape, thickness, height, and profile. By the way, the side with the best medullary rays goes towards the tailpiece.
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