FiddleDoug

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About FiddleDoug

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  • Birthday November 28

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  1. Pineapple juice does contain protease enzymes that would help digest things like glue or other protein matter. ttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bromelain
  2. You can go find yourself a pine tree with some dried resin on it. A few swipes of that should do it.
  3. I don't think that air drying wood removes any more tension than heat bending, where the heat actually softens the lignin structure of the wood, and allows the bend to lock in after it cools. https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/usda/ah125.pdf
  4. You're kidding , right? You mentioned in a later post that you let them dry for a week? That's what I would call wasted time! It takes less than a minute for each rib section on a bender.
  5. If the instrument had no f holes, and was hermetically sealed, it could be a problem. However, since the instruments don't fit either condition, I'd say the client is full of c**p. Perhaps they should take up tuba instead, to get rid of wasted breath.
  6. I agree with Duane about carving out the block. Whether it's a dowel or screw, trying to remove the neck any other way could make a mess. Since I do a lot of other woodworking, I have a small, hand held metal detector (multifunction stud finder) that I use to look for small bits of metal or hidden fasteners. Something like that could come in handy here, to determine screw or dowel.
  7. I've never seen anyone hang a fiddle by the pegs, and I would never do it. All it would take is for a peg to work or pop loose, and the fiddle take a gravity trip. No thank you!
  8. I don't see them. That may be something on your end.
  9. No upper corner blocks is pretty common with those. The lower blocks are often "fake", not really fitting. They're really only there to disguise the fact that it was built with no blocks. You sure got a lot of tear out when you took the top off.
  10. We are talking about a child size violin that's going to be donated to a music school, not a Strad!! The most economical repair here is a clavette under the block to repair/reinforce the button, and a neck reset. As long as it's set up properly, the children that use it, their parents, and the music school won't mind that it's not done in the "proper" way.
  11. I would say yes. I don't see any other good way to push that out to the point where the ding is level and flush. A reasonable repair with touch up might be $500 plus. The "classic" way to do it is to remove the top and linings, push out the fracture and glue, thin the rib, fit a patch of rib to go on the inside, glue the patch, thin the patch to the original thickness of the rib, put the linings back in, and put the top back on, and retouch. (very expensive) A more budget friendly method might be to take the top off, push out and glue the fracture, overlay a patch (veneer or 1/32" plywood) on the inside of the rib between the linings, put the top back on and retouch. (that's the $500 option)
  12. Looks like the neck making is the big time item. figure that out and you'll probably have a good start. Neat design, and not to be critical, but is there any concern about weakness due to cross grain at the crook of the neck?
  13. I haven't ever seen an inexpensive equivalent.
  14. You do mean cello bridge BLANK. All bridges come as blanks, and must be fitted to the individual instrument.