FiddleDoug

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About FiddleDoug

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  • Birthday November 28

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    Hilton, NY

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  1. Last question first: "Do you ever have to compress the ribs on the violin before gluing the top down. Recently a corkscrewed body wanted creative application from the sides. And last week I pushed in a lower bout as I was setting a spool clamp. Is this common? Does one sometimes remove the ribs to a form, and glue the top afresh, then reset the back? " Ribs often need to be coaxed back into position. The tops often shrink some, and in some of those cases it may be necessary to shorten the ribs by removing the ribs from the lower block (not removed from the violin!) and trimming the ends. I cant imagine, and have never heard of anyone removing the ribs to a form. Removing the back is pretty much a very last resort! Getting the back/button to line up correctly with the neck could be a real problem. As for pegs, the holes in the pegbox do open up, but a more likely cause is poorly seasoned pegs, that shrink in diameter. Buying good quality, seasoned pegs will help minimize this.
  2. Can't tell that much from the provided pictures, other than that there are some pretty severe problems at both ends of the instrument. Well over $1000 to fix.
  3. You're not supposed to dip it!!!!
  4. I'll also agree. Somewhere in that area. The flaming on the back looks fake from where I'm sitting.
  5. There's no way to tell what the violin needs from a couple of pictures. It's a bit like posting a couple pictures of a car that isn't running, and asking what it would take to fix it. You really need to take it to a good luthier for evaluation. He/she will be able to see what needs to be dome, and give you estimates on cost. At a bare minimum, if there aren't any structural issues, plan on at least $250, and that could more than double if there are problems that we can't see.
  6. If you do do it that way, TRIPLE check the neck angle at several stages during gluing. I usually have a spacer under the FB, to make sure that the angle doesn't drop while the glue sets.
  7. It appears to be a pretty nice instrument. Much better than the usual stuff that comes out of Markneukirchen. IMHO the stamp on the inside, rather than a paper label, might make it more likely that it's genuine. A paper label could be slipped in at any time, by anybody, where a stamp had to have been put there when the top, or back was off. A trip to a good luthier for an evaluation and set up, would be the way to go. As for whether your husband overpaid- you don't say what he paid for it.
  8. Brad about sums it up. This is the kind of thing that you can't learn by watching a couple of Youtube videos. You can really only learn it by working with a talented Master luthier, who learned it from another Marter luthier, and ha honed the skills through years, or decades of work. I have only been doing this for about 12 years( with summer workshops under a Master luthier), and still consider myself a "newbie" in some aspects.
  9. I use a block plane, along with a jig, something like this, to hold the bridge.
  10. Get everything else correct before you worry too much about fractions of millimeters in soundpost placement. Here's how to do a bridge properly: https://trianglestrings.com/carving-a-violin-bridge/
  11. " By the way is a finished bridge weight 1.9gm too light ?? Whats the ideal weight for violin finished bridge ?? " Throw the scale away! There is no ideal weight. It's all about the cut and quality of the bridge. Height, thickness, thickness at the top, and all the other parts. To get the best results, you can't just trim a blank to the right height and thickness. I wouldn't even let a student instrument out of my shop like that.
  12. Small adjustments of the soundpost will work if the rest of the set up is good. That means good strings, good bridge cut, soundpost fit, and everything else. The saying in some english speaking countries is:"You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.". We can't see from here, even with photographs, what your exact set up is. That's a hands on thing. If you want critique based on photographs, I'd say that the bridge isn't very well cut. Sure, the feet might fit, but the rest of the bridge is pretty poorly done.