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About FiddleDoug

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  • Birthday November 28

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    Hilton, NY

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  1. Tell her that it is normal for the string, and that even if she did get some marks on her peg, it's not an issue. Also mention your 20% restocking charge.
  2. That would be Chanot, not Chanon.
  3. Exactly how hard do you play your instrument to make them heat up?
  4. I totally agree with Jacob! If you're working on instruments yourself (without any training), you have to realize that we don't do this by instinct, or gut. In most cases, it's mostly about getting the proper measurements and configuration. A good start for that is getting something like the book: "Useful Measurements For Violin Makers". That will give you information about neck angle, bridges, nuts, etc.. This stuff isn't trivial, and a lot of us have many hours of professional training. If you want to escape from your "remote area" for a couples of weeks, in a normal, non-Covid year, you can take very good workshops that cover a lot of the normal set-up topics.
  5. Adding corner blocks is very unlikely to do anything for you. Adding an interior breast patch won't help with the area on the outside, unless you do as Nick suggested, and make a cast. and sandbag the front to correct the arching. I didn't open the pictures, but I would trust Nick to see that the neck is pulling out and needs to be reset. If the neck is pulling out, adding a crown to the button, won't help, and would actually be a problem in the long run.
  6. In place of a light bulb, which might be an issue at night in a bedroom, you could get one of the low power rod heaters designed to keep condensation out of safes. Mounted in the bottom of the cabinet, with a pan of water over it, it would also add humidity. Again, monitor temp and humidity.
  7. Yup! Plug in thermostats aren't that expensive. Only problem with the fridge is that I would have a tendency to open it up looking for a cold one.
  8. I'm trying to remember what kind of heating Strad has in his house. Or, for that matter, what kind of central heating buildings had before about 1900. Seriously, what kind of temperatures are you talking about? "freekin' COLD" has different meanings for different people. How are your violins stored, and how many do you have? In extreme cases, you might consider some kind of cabinet with a small heater and humidity source. The heater could be something as simple as an incandescent bulb (properly placed away from flammable materials). The wattage of the bulb determines the amount of heat. A pan of water would provide humidity. In cases like this, measurement of temperature and humidity are a must! The "heater" could also be placed on a timer to turn on at night.
  9. No to oil varnish for retouching!! The first reason that I think of is that it takes hours to dry! With retouching. you typically have to put on several color coats, with clear coats between, often adjusting the color for subsequent layers. Oil varnish would take forever! A second reason is that you are more likely to have better adhesion with shellac based spirit varnishes. A third reason is that it's easier to remove spirit bases varnishes if you are not happy with something that you've done (color).
  10. "Well... my current violin sucks... " I agree with Rue. You don't buy a fixer upper in hopes that it will be better than your sucky one. You need to go to a good shop and try out violins in good, playable condition.
  11. Using a clavette, rather than a full button graft, I think yes. "A few" covers a pretty wide range.
  12. Looks to be a Markneukirchen-ish dutzenarbeit. It looks to have a broken button, so, repair and set up would probably cost a few hundred dollars. It could turn out pretty nice, but you wouldn't make money if you sold it afterwards.
  13. So you have it in your possession for a week, and you ask us to "appraise it" without pictures???? Can't be done! Take a very good series of pictures as recommended in the post at the top of the page, and post them. For all we know at this point, it could just be a dolled up dutzenarbeit worth $1000.
  14. I spent 34 years as a chemist, and used fume hoods all the time. I bathroom fan is inadequate for CFM, and is trying to push the air out a 3-4 inch pipe/hose. Most bathroom fans are in the 50-100 CFM range. You probably want something more like 400 CFM. The hood need to be limited volume, with a limited entrance for air. This is a small lab fume hood. Notice that the door hinges down to limit entrance size.
  15. That's a soundpost crack, that would require attention with the top off. It's not something that you just slather a little glue on. Best left to someone that knows how to handle it.