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FiddleDoug

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About FiddleDoug

  • Birthday November 28

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    Hilton, NY

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  1. Peroxide should work OK, but maybe you should leave some, as positive proof, for future generations, that you made it.
  2. Yup! I’ve seen lots like that. Pretty much standard practice on the old dutzenarbeit fiddles from the Markneukirchen area.
  3. Looks like a bog standard 1900ish cottage industry fiddle to me. How do you tell 1800 wood from 1900 wood? I’ve seen both.
  4. Violins almost never use lacquer, so few of us have any experience with it. You might get better info from a more guitar related forum. Good luck.
  5. Perhaps work for a good shop until you develop a reputation. I’m not what you would call a “successful violin maker”.(started very late in life). I have heard people say to marry a rich woman.
  6. That doesn’t look like hide glue. It will complicate things, and the cost, a lot.
  7. I have done that with bridge slots. I used maple dust and CA glue.
  8. I have always understood that it was just solvent, with no binder, so that it doesn’t interfere with the varnish that you’re using. I use silica in ethanol in my spirit based retouching varnish.
  9. Things like Matt Lac contain colloidal silica, which is a super fine glassy silica material. I use dry colloidal silica (West System) that is used to fill and thicken things like epoxy. By adjusting the amount, you can adjust the gloss. I wouldn’t add any of the other things that you mentioned. They might form something more like white paint than what you are looking for.
  10. Lots of good suggestions here. I’m assuming that the top is still on, so access to the inside is limited. You might be able to position the instrument open seam down, and introduce the solvent/detergent to the inside, with a very thin tube.
  11. If this is considered an upgrade, the one that you have now must be really, really bad! Keep looking, or talk to all the shops/luthiers in your area and have them keep an eye open for you.
  12. It might be possible for your luthier to fix that bridge. I've never see one cut that deep by the string. I have for lesser grooves, filled it in with a mix of wood dust and CA glue, and then put a parchment over it. A main consideration is the height of the strings over the fingerboard. Let your luthier take care of things.
  13. They changed the formula for DEFT, and it's not like the old formula. Old formula was mostly nitrocellulose. New formula is mostly, if I remember correctly, alkyd resins. I haven't tried the new one.
  14. There is no simple answer to your question! Varnish, and color retouching requires a lot of experience and expertise. I have been doing it for about 17 years, and I still shake my head, and am humbled, when I watch a true Maestro of the art retouching an instrument.
  15. "Now do you think the flames on the back are legit? " You can tell by tilting the violin back and forth in the light. Fake flames don't do anything. Real flames move with the light. (Chatoyance) https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=d9eef79a7f076b3b&sca_upv=1&q=chatoyance+violin&tbm=vid&source=lnms&fbs=AEQNm0AVbySjNxIXoj6bNaq7uSpw-2eW7KIQ8H4T_tEPJYsPzOi5GKsV0RKGmy84LfyUxrl-4_0AusV0IdjeUAdX2KBg7BmnGLOak5d-z-_u-BD5mN13FgBnNWDvju7R9DTlWNidOrJflM1JuVtiWYZDkHFOJzhjFWWukocdFSx3yN5TzfLggWRnI4Aa-8EhEIZUfHR_WMFwmbeNhwTWDi8XltL7qhh3uw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjCit6Cn_WGAxUXMlkFHWpgA6kQ0pQJegQIDRAB&biw=1536&bih=731&dpr=1.25#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:0d189e0f,vid:7ssM25smPK4,st:0
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