matthew tucker

I've made four western red cedar bass tops and they all sound great; warm, open, and loud. However, the cedar is soft, and yes can be a bit splitty, especially during top removal. None of my tops has cracked yet. FWIW, if I were to put in a soundpost patch, I would have very few qualms putting in a spruce patch, as the wood is harder, and in that nodal location I doubt whether there will be significant tonal change. If you want to use cedar, go for the tightest grained piece you can find. I would also consider spruce for top and bottom block area patches. (I have just about used up all my qualms ... does anyone know where to get them these days? I tried my scruples supplier - but he's gone out of business too.)

Also known as filbert shape. i agree .... best brush shape. and synthetic bristles seem to be very good too.

Speaking of kevlar, I'd like someone to make a tool roll with a stiched-in kevlar lining for my gouges

Kevlar would be super strong but hell to work with. Repair materials need to be easy to work with ... and also to remove. On basses and cellos I use artist's grade linen canvas, unbleached, and i use strips overlapping the linings a little as i don't want to create a weak-point by stopping the linen at the linings. I pull out 4-5 threads from each edge so that the edges feather nicely into the rib instead of making a ridge. When glue is dry I sand edges lightly to kill any rough spots then paint on more thin hide glue to seal. I've been toying with the idea of sealing the linen/glue reinforcement with shellac. But have not done this yet.

I've been experimenting a little with what i think must be manila copal - although I'd love a "test" so help me identify it. What is interesting; it half-dissolves in alcohol and leaves a white powdery slurry. But I discovered that in naptha/shellite/lighter fluid, it dissolves completely and well. When brushed onto glass, the alcohol version leaves a slightly translucent film, stays sticky for a while. The shellite version, on the other hand, dries in about 30 seconds, leaves a perfectly clear film, and hardens nicely. Has anyone else used this solvent in touch-up varnishes?

CHET! You did it! And I missed it by ... THAT much! I've had a few distractions down here this year :-( and forgot to check in at Maestronet for a while. But I've just read the whole thread and now inspired to make one myself. A beautiful result you have there and I'm looking forward to hearing it, too. (Just have to finish a bass or two first ...) Well done Chet. best wishes Matthew

Subscribed (hi Chet!)

I love doublesided tape - mine is only a layer of glue really. No foam layer at all. I stick thin pieces of wood to a sheet of thick perspex, stick two thicker sticks at either side as a fence, then use a plunge router to thickness my strips very accurately and safely. Then just slide a knife under the veneers and rub the glue off. Also use doublesided tape to stick a backing block to my blades when lapping. Much easier when you have something to hold onto.

What? No-one else uses blu-tack on a ruler?

That's what I usually use for my double bass purfling, but the other day i saw a picture of someone using it with the "handle" part as a handle! ... and felt a bit silly because I'd been using it upside down all this time. But now, i'm not so sure!

Gurian Instruments makes purfling to order, all sorts of woods and thicknesses and layups. fantastic resource. But there's a minimum order price so its a good idea to to a group buy ... I haven't personally bought from them yet, but I know a bunch of luthiers that have, and they all have good things to say. http://www.gurianinstruments.com/pb/index.php

This is not really a new idea and you've probably seen this all before, but in case not ... of historical interest http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection...devereux-viola/

And one for double bass please, too.

(checks date ... hmmm ... April 1 was a couple of months ago ... )

Craig most players use a 3/4 double bass and use a string length of 41.5" . That's about as standard as it gets. Some basses have 44" string length but this is on the upper limit of playability. a 4/4 bass is just a term for "a very large bass" really. Primary students typically start on a "1/2" size bass with a string length of 38"-40". I'd be surprised if your client couldn't use one of these successfully. Think about where your heel stop is going to be. this is the point where the index stops the thinnest string when the thumb is in the crook of the heel. Double basses have a D or Eb stop - dunno about cellos. It is a useful standard reference point. Big diff between acoustic basses and electric is sustain, acoustic box absorbs string vibrations so the sustain is typically short. That's part of the DB sound. Without a moving soundboard there's nothing damping the vibrations and the thing sustains forever like an electric bass. Very different sound. I think if you build in a small soundboard/cavity the sound will be more DB - like but that's just a hunch. the Paulin bass I posted above has a hollow body with cedar top and piezo pickups under the bridge feet. Oh and if you're going to use bass strings at proper tension, I suspect those peg tuners won't do. With basses, there are no rules. Have fun.