duane88

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About duane88

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  • Birthday 09/05/1965

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  1. Geared pegs are reversible. None of the things that you mention would devalue the instrument. If you like the cello and the price, purchase it. If you want mechanical pegs, have them installed. Worst case is that you need to bush the holes in order to go back to normal pegs if the next person wants them removed. I usually tell customers that people have been making some sort of mechanical peg to replace the friction pegs since the mid 19th c. We install them, and the next generation removes them when they fail and replace them with friction pegs. A well fit friction peg is a joy to use.
  2. And we weren't there, so we don't know what it looked like when it was put away.
  3. Causation and correlation. Consider the difference.
  4. I have seen a fair number of instruments, usually with a "Simon Kriner" label, Mittenwalders, that have this malady. I presently have a cello, Mittenwald from the early/mis 19th c, that has the same problem. In the IPCI book, volume 1, there is a lengthy article on varnish failures and this sort of damage is shown in photographs and detailed. I think that this is the orig. varnish and we see that it has had problems. Smooth it out, as Jacob says, lightly polish, and go forward. As for the bar, do as you wish since most of us would probably replace the bar if it came through our shops.
  5. Pretty Mittenwalder. Hill paper or Hill number on the board? I love the scroll.
  6. duane88

    Cello Id please

    interesting f-holes and angular notches. Pretty interesting Beech(?) scroll. Looks interesting and perhaps worth repairing.
  7. Wittner tailpieces for viola come in 2 sizes that they label 15-15 1/2" and15 1/2 to 16 1/3. The smaller one is more like a long violin tailpiece with narrower string spacing, the larger wider spacing. The shorter is about 115-116mm, the larger is 125mm. Which will work for your viola is difficult to say. Your local luthier is your best choice, and you should purchase such things from the local luthier rather than SHAR. That is, if you want to keep the local luthier in business.
  8. I have found 2 particular issues that are problematic with the above method(s), but I do use a piece of Aluminum with a hole drilled in it to remove most buttons. 1-I have run into a number of French bows that had the button pinned AFTER the screw was placed. This resulted in the pins being puilled through the inside as the screw was removed. It it doesn't want to come out, consider this. 2-Some German and English(Think Hill extruded solid buttons) are reverse threaded into the button. Heat. Don't forget to consider heat when removing the button. I place the tip of the soldering iron on the screw until it is thoroughly heated, and believe that this helps, especially in situations where someone has glued the screw in. If the button is from a cheaper bow, please make sure that you are dealing with Bakelite or wood and not plastic before you can smell it melting.
  9. I will let you know after my copy arrives. I have found that the Dipper translation to be interesting and worthy, but the book that Julian is asking about is totally different. Andreas: You dry and Ok there in Tokyo?
  10. 3mm is a mile on a violin. If this is for a fiddle player, it might be fine, but not for a violinist. Also, fudging the bridge to compensate for a long neck simply compounds the problem. 3mm off for a guitar is fine, but not a good violin.
  11. Yes, in the form of a bow. All of the bow makers who I have encountered decline to work in Nickel, so the button gets replaced in silver, which is followed by, "you know, I could just make you a silver-mounter frog for that..."
  12. Gold is about 2x the price of silver, and silver is about 2x the price of Ni, but a replaced button is a 10%+ hit to the value. As to playability: no difference, unless a button is unusually heavy, like some extruded Aluminum Hill buttons.
  13. Where are you located? I believe that I have seen this violin before.
  14. The numbers look to me to be too large for the Hill number stamps that I have seen. Doesn't mean that they didn't have more than one set of stamps.
  15. What I have done in the past is: Bush peg holes and install 3/4 size pegs. Fingerboard:over sized with the board hanging over on the bass side, that is where you get room for the 5th string. Tailpiece: drill a hole behind the existing holes and in the center of the G-D and thread the string up from the underside of the TP. You can also, for the pegs, carve the peg box out. There is usually a good bit of room at the end to open it up.