duane88

So why, then, when a collar or pip on a peg is loose do we have a buzz that the conductor can hear? Clamp a small C-clamp(padded, of course) to the scroll and play the violin. Put a glob of modeling clay under the end of the fingerboard and play. What happens.

There are plenty of Springfields in other states...

Eric...I know, tailpieces are harder. Until I make a peg that someone else wants to purchase-for the value of the time that it took me to make it-I'll just continue to buy them.

In most cases, wing cracks are no big deal, and certainly not a deal breaker on any violin. If it sounds good, it is a reasonable price.

They came from Larry Kass and Howard Core and that is their designation, not mine. I bow and defer to you as the expert of fittings. So, where are my fittings that I asked for?(just kidding...)kinda.

I agree with David. Too much waste with the cheaper stuff. Just spend a bit more and get decent pegs. I took these out of a Winterling violin.

I had always heard that, but the victors write the history, and outside of the trade who knows of George Hart?! I am fond of Winterling pegs. I've never found Hill-style pegs to be comfortable, but I am not sure that I have ever had fine Hill pegs in my hand. Chinrests and tailpieces, yes, but not sure about a real Hill peg.

Swiss on the left, French on the right.

That is for rough arching. When I was in SLC a friend/student would do his rough arching with a hatchet, his rough scooping out the inside with an adze! He was Chinese and had worked in a piano factory.

I had a violin by Justin Gilbert. It came with an autographed copy of his book, self-published, on making a violin. It had one of these scrolls on it. His book was published in 1944. He mentions in the chapter on scroll carving that the Amateur need not carve his own scroll and gives the addresses of European suppliers of properly carved and measured scrolls and necks. Whomever made the body pictured above didn't have the tool skills to carve that scroll.

So sad. I always enjoyed his labels and historical information put forth.

You see these on some Juzeks and I have seen a few American violins with the same scrolls, indicating to me that they were something that could be purchased.

The rings or cap are put onto the, usually, ebony core. Many French makers put the pin in when the button is still a cylinder. Then you file the facets. The pin can end up anywhere. Most German makers put the pins in after filling the facets, placing it more or less in the center of the facet. Some makers simply glue the rings or cap an and use no pins. On an unaltered example the placement of pins or the absence of them can help with authentication or guide you.

Between the post patch and the button graft you already in pretty deep. Any good shop has scrolls laying around. I would guess approaching 7-8k to get it properly up and going. At a minimum.

I say something funny. My partner doesn't laugh. I ask her why, to which she replies, "Because you aren't funny"...That probably says it all.