duane88

I learned long ago that if you rush touch up and filling, you often get to start over. Natural products take more time than synthetic products. I would suspect that was one of the reasons they were developed. I do find that the fresher the alcohol based fillers dry faster and harder than when they have been sitting around for a while. Taylor guitars has long used a catalyzed polyester resin. Spray, high intensity UV exposure for minutes, ready to go in a case. Difficult to repair, doesn't adhere to itself, or even all that well to the wood, but it's fast for production.

der Holfter GmbH im Online-Buchshop : B. Millant, J.F. Raffin: L' Archet My friend Ulrich Holfter seems to have one in stock. I got mine from him. He's a great resource.

We don't use that word any more. Developmentally Delayed is more appropriate.

And they didn't bocth anything. The flames appear to be painted.

Gasparo da Saló-fiolinen [Fiolin] -Kode / DigitaltMuseum

Wittner makes a tailpiece that has a screw in it to allow you to change the afterlength a moderate amount without taking the set-up down. It can be useful for this. As for the exact afterlength, it matters to some, less to others, and it is just a part of the greater set-up. I start with 1/6th and go from there.

But of course. Since you read it on the internet, it must be true.

Nursing. PICU.

It isn't an indication of any school.

Decades ago, just after I left the school in SLC, I was learning from Mike and Carrie Scoggins. There was a Federation meeting that year at the Smithsonian and there were to be lectures regarding Conservation and such. Carrie came back with the Soluvar, using it as a top coat and fill for touch up. I got some, probably still have it somewhere, but don't use it anymore. I seem to remember that it was soluble in mineral spirits but not ETOH.

What’s special about this bow? nothing.

The way to learn to tell the difference is to look at lots of example of bows from different time periods and woods. Then you can begin to sort it out, but even then it isn't always straight forward.

If you make in the alleged Cremonese methods, then corner blocks are needed. It seems quite clear the that Brescians didn't need them. If you use an outside mould, or build on the back, you don't need them. If you were Flemish, you set the ribs into a groove in the back, so no blocks needed. Mostly for glueing surface area, I would guess, unless you are using the inside mould and need them for the shape.

Luthier and Woodworker Tools — Zephyrwerks, The Sheave Factory Quite simply the best.

Why stop with one?