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chrisandcello

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  1. Can't make the link work....here... http://www.beautifulbowsandviolins.com/detail.php?cat=Instruments&cat2=Violins&id=Vi-ICGN
  2. My link Is that the one thats now for sale for £2250 @ At a glance it looks the same to me....
  3. Thanks for the tip...I'll definately give that a try. I've found carving the hard ebony is not as straightforward as the softer dyed rubbish pegs...currently playing with working some hss sharps...small files to the wood help alot too. Next springtime a reasonable target though
  4. It will be a while before I'm at that level and photos are too much hassle...and possibly incriminating But initial experiments on throw away dyed pegs....pencil lines...hold peg in non slip matting...knife to cut out the peg shoulders/cheeks...pencil lines...stop cuts to pencil lines...gouge curves and nose..burnish, dye, burnish, buff.....certainly add other fine tuning/shaping/finishing stages with later ones....just wanted to prove a point to myself really. The 1st was bad...the 2nd had potential, superficially OK but not good enough (bad to an experienced eye )...a few weeks practicing on scrap pegs should bring it down to a party trick timescale and passable to a good eye...then get more serious once the scrap pegs are gone and a design specific technique/s flows Carving/whittling knife making are newish hobbies still...but feel free to ask for that photo next springtime! Thanks to the original and following posters...the peg design is inspiring to me and plenty scope to modify further...
  5. Having just tried it with a v gouge and a knife....any competent whittler with sharp tools should be able to knock these out... The pic is small but just looks like modified standard pattern pegs. Nice to read the history though and thanks for posting the pic...something to whittle away the winter nights with
  6. Maybe a short exposure has different effects?.....mine are fumed for weeks before laying up to harden. They become much harder than after a short fuming...which is for colour only...
  7. Are you sure that ammonia fuming reduces the hardness? My experience is the opposite...once dry they become almost stone like..very hard...more difficult to cut etc...
  8. They can be bent in the same way as you might recamber a bow. Due to the size I used a electric heat gun...worked fine...3 yrs later still fine...
  9. 18 pages in...Jezzupe is way smarter than the assassins Thank you Jezzupe...your postings always offer a good depth and openess....I'd hate for you to go all reserved and secretive. Don't let stray monkeys spoil the party
  10. I don't think its about just shooting for a weight per say...but using wood that is inherently lighter...some maple is heavier...some is lighter...choose the lighter
  11. Was'nt copal refered to as gold in those days?
  12. Have you tried underslinging the C?......ie: thread from the top of the tailpiece so it comes out the bottom rather than over the top fret....
  13. And then there was the hourglass shaped post...... Couple of years back I tried all sorts of coatings (amongst other things).....found nothing better than a plain post. As Oded suggests...thickness is perhaps the main influence. My loose take on tonal effect of post thickness is similar (but not the same) to my take on bridge thickness....its something to consider.....
  14. Somewhere I've seen a chinrest mounted to (part of) the tailpiece to get the same effect....personally I wouldn't pursue it....guess the strings would snap at the bridge after a while. Only useful for whammying chords maybe...Hendrix has a lot to answer for (in the best possible sense of course )
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