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captainhook

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Everything posted by captainhook

  1. If you don't like it that wide it isn't extremely difficult to make it narrower.
  2. Au contraire. Every time I post or read I am out of the shop.
  3. Conor, I remembered McMaster-Carr. They have a fairly good selection of coil stock. I don't know whether they ship internationally and don't know what brand(s) they sell, but everything I've gotten from them has been pretty good. Look at www.mcmaster.com
  4. I'm not sure where to look, but I think Olson, Timberwolf and Starrett are good brands, among others. The only catalog I have now only shows pre-sized blades. I used to see coils listed, but don't remember where. They are most practical, of course, for the width and tooth pattern you use most, but you already know that. You might try a larger woodworking shop, if there is one close.They might be willing to sell a coil or two, or at least to order for you.
  5. It appears that cut edges are all black. I once knew a fellow who tried laser cutting wooden clock gears. He only did it once because of the black edges.
  6. Not Conor, but I do that a lot. Scarf the ends for much more surface area, use high temperature silver solder (actually a type of brazing) and suitable flux. I think you can still buy a kit of solder and flux from Ace Hardware. A propane torch is hot enough. Then you need a fixture to hold the blade in alignment while you braze. I made my own but several places used to sell them, with a starter supply of solder and flux. Haven't noticed lately. It's a little trouble, but I once bought a bunch of new Delta 1/8" blades for $1 each that were a little too short. I cut one up to splice pieces in. Then I bought several partial rolls of various sizes at an auction. Mostly Starrett. I haven't bought a new blade in years and still have loads.
  7. Delta WERE good. If you can find an old one, fine. The one I bought new 10 or 15 years ago was made in China and shows it. I've had to do a lot of work to make it decent. About that time a Delta rep told me that only the Unisaw (table saw) and the top band saw model were still made in US. I've heard since that all production has gone to China, and, of course, Delta has changed hands, bought I believe by Black and Decker. Key to performance is ultimately a truly sharp blade. New ones aren't always.
  8. I think the common reason for doing it is so the C string does not make as sharp a bend over the nut. G strings are used to that treatment. I seriously doubt that it makes a real difference.
  9. Just had a cheap 1/4 size fiddle that had been dropped and the neck broke loose. Actually, only the button broke loose because the neck root was only touching the block at the front edge and sides. Took longer to install and fit a patch than it would have to fit the neck correctly in the first place.
  10. Herbicide resistant rape could certainly be at least part of the problem.
  11. I can't give a source, but my understanding is that some flax is now bred to produce oil, for edible purposes, that does not go rancid and therefore does not dry. The market for drying linseed oil keeps shrinking, so the farmers follow the market. Another factor that has been mentioned, may or may not be true, is that rape (canola) is being grown alternately or in close proximity to flax and the two interpolinate and produce non-drying oil. I would think that growers who sell to paint companies would be careful, but the oil that appears in paint and hardware stores may not be carefully selected.
  12. Your receipt may not be the same as what IRS will allow if you are ever audited.
  13. All I know is that it doesn't cost much more to print a thousand than a hundred. Or ten. The cost per copy goes down rapidly as the volume goes up. Most of the cost is in making plates and press set-up.
  14. Can't look because I'm not a member and won't be.
  15. Not that it matters, but it is well known that, in at least some species such as hard maples, winter (dormant) sap is much different than growing sap. Maple syrup is made from only dormant sap. As soon as the trees start to come out of dormancy the sap is unsuitable for syrup, as every syrup maker knows from experience. Shortly after that the flow from the taps diminishes dramatically. Admittedly, some or all of that change may be because of bacterial growth in the holes, but I think if you drill a new hole then, it will not flow. I don't know whether similar changes occur in other species.
  16. It's all a matter of opinion. If a person seriously believes that tapping tells him what he needs to know, there is no way to convince him that he is wrong. For him it is right. More common, I think, are players who judge fiddle sound capability by plucking the strings. That may even work for some, but not for me.
  17. I certainly know little about bows, but so do many "dealers." For bows without hair, some people simply look for camber and straightness and quickly pronounce any bow with a little warp as junk. I can tell some differences by playing but not by looking. I have been curious about something though. A couple years ago I was asked to evaluate a couple of violins with bows for a church garage sale. One was fairly nice so we put it on consignment in a shop, where it eventually sold. The other violin was pretty bad, needing a lot of work besides being cheap anyway, so I suggested a price of $20, hoping it would sell. It had an octagonal bow with no hair that I couldn't tell much about but which certainly did not look special to me. This was a very large sale, and the person in charge told me that when they opened for business the first person in went directly to that fiddle and it was the first item sold. I can only assume that it was bought for the bow. Maybe the buyer didn't know even as much as I did or maybe he recognized something special. I'll never know. I don't think the fiddle had a Strad label.
  18. If there are no blocks, the pins serve no function except decoration or fakery. I actually did that once, long ago, when I was working with detached rib garlands. I didn't like the look and changed my ways.
  19. Ben, I use a clothes iron on all violin and some cello bridges. Cello bridges take a while to heat through. Someone else once mentioned first heating bass bridges in a microwave oven. I've tried that with very good results. Probably would work well on cellos too. Note: my microwave is a small 700 watt model. Do it gently.
  20. Those are the numbers that are commonly given, but are not that critical. I flatten about 10 mm all around, but I purfle after closing and trimming the overhang, so the flat narrows some. As long as you have enough for purfling (but not too much), you can finish later. It can be wider everywhere except the C bouts.
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