captainhook

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If you don't like it that wide it isn't extremely difficult to make it narrower.

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Au contraire. Every time I post or read I am out of the shop.

Conor, I remembered McMaster-Carr. They have a fairly good selection of coil stock. I don't know whether they ship internationally and don't know what brand(s) they sell, but everything I've gotten from them has been pretty good. Look at www.mcmaster.com

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I'm not sure where to look, but I think Olson, Timberwolf and Starrett are good brands, among others. The only catalog I have now only shows pre-sized blades. I used to see coils listed, but don't remember where. They are most practical, of course, for the width and tooth pattern you use most, but you already know that. You might try a larger woodworking shop, if there is one close.They might be willing to sell a coil or two, or at least to order for you.

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It appears that cut edges are all black. I once knew a fellow who tried laser cutting wooden clock gears. He only did it once because of the black edges.

Not Conor, but I do that a lot. Scarf the ends for much more surface area, use high temperature silver solder (actually a type of brazing) and suitable flux. I think you can still buy a kit of solder and flux from Ace Hardware. A propane torch is hot enough. Then you need a fixture to hold the blade in alignment while you braze. I made my own but several places used to sell them, with a starter supply of solder and flux. Haven't noticed lately. It's a little trouble, but I once bought a bunch of new Delta 1/8" blades for $1 each that were a little too short. I cut one up to splice pieces

Delta WERE good. If you can find an old one, fine. The one I bought new 10 or 15 years ago was made in China and shows it. I've had to do a lot of work to make it decent. About that time a Delta rep told me that only the Unisaw (table saw) and the top band saw model were still made in US. I've heard since that all production has gone to China, and, of course, Delta has changed hands, bought I believe by Black and Decker. Key to performance is ultimately a truly sharp blade. New ones aren't always.

I think the common reason for doing it is so the C string does not make as sharp a bend over the nut. G strings are used to that treatment. I seriously doubt that it makes a real difference.

Just had a cheap 1/4 size fiddle that had been dropped and the neck broke loose. Actually, only the button broke loose because the neck root was only touching the block at the front edge and sides. Took longer to install and fit a patch than it would have to fit the neck correctly in the first place.

Herbicide resistant rape could certainly be at least part of the problem.