• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About fiddlerjer

  • Rank
  • Birthday 05/18/1970

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    South Orange
  • Interests
    Unconventional instruments

Recent Profile Visitors

1166 profile views
  1. I mean my wiring experience is pretty slim but it seems like something like this should be relatively easy to install -- --would need to figure out how to put the sensor inside the iron.
  2. Nope, just a plug. No switches of any kind that I can see.
  3. I'll need to bend my purfling sometime soon, I got one of the cheap Chinese bending irons from ebay. Has anyone added a thermostat to one of these? Or would a dimmer work? My reading suggests the temp should be kept low for bending purfling so as not to damage the glue joint, is that right?
  4. I tried cutting a scrap piece with a different knife than I'd been using -- turns out this one is a much better tool for the job. I found it cheap a year or two ago but hadn't been using it as I don't have any curved stone for sharpening the blade. But today I realized I could sharpen just the last 5mm or so using the end of my flat stone, which is is all I need to use in cutting the groove. It cuts easily and follows the mark precisely. Now I'm going to have to figure out what tool to use to clear out the material in the channel -- don't have any 1mm chisels...
  5. Thanks for the pics. I'm visiting a friend who has a tormek next weekend, I think I'll regrind these blades.
  6. The cutter has two blades, each is beveled on only one side. The way the tool is set up currently, the bevels are facing each other. This seems like the correct configuration for marking a groove with vertical walls; however it means that the minimum width of the groove is twice the thickness of the blades. I could grind the blades slightly thinner, or I could mark the groove in two passes, once for the inside and once for the outside. I expect I'll do the latter. I think there is going to be a lot of practice cuts in my near future, before I start in on my actual plates.
  7. Aha: I was trying to follow the purfling cutter's mark with my knife. Seems like the better way is to cut from the middle of the groove out towards the mark on either side, to cut a groove without widening it.
  8. Well sure. I have been picturing the process of cutting the edges as, I have the plate I'm working on face down on my bench in the cradle, with the ribs glued to it. I mark around the ribs at a distance of 2.5mm, with a little variation at the corners. Then I would cut down towards the bench sort of whittling inwards from its current edge (which is roughly 4mm beyond the rib), until I reach close to the line, always making sure to cut with the grain; then finish with a thumb plane and file. Would that work?
  9. My new Lee Valley purfling cutter seems to mark a groove (in scrap) of about 3mm width, when set up with the blades touching; and measuring the purfling on the violin I'm using for reference, it is about that wide as well. But looking at the purfling that I bought from Stew-Mac, it is more like 1.5mm wide. Will it increase in width at some point? Or do I need to figure out how to cut a narrower groove? The page at Lee Valley claims cutting width goes down to 1/16", which is just a little over 1.5mm. Update, it seems like my cutting is widening the groove -- if I just mark it with a single pass and then measure it, it is just about 2mm. I need to be more careful with the knife.
  10. I'm preparing to tack glue the rib garland to the back and top plates in order to trim the edges and mark the purfling. Would it make sense to (a) glue the garland on to the back (b) with the back face down in the cradle, trim the edges (c) glue the top on (d) turn it over and trim the edges of the belly Or would it work better to glue everything together before cutting anything? My reasoning is that while I'm cutting the maple it would be nice to have a little extra space to work in.
  11. Wow, so the neck is screwed or bolted on to the end block? Is that at all common? Does not seem like it would be stable without a mortise.
  12. Yep, have been using my finger plane (only have the one for now, and it's new, still learning to use it), still working at getting the setting just right. It takes very fine shavings off the maple currently but seems to bite into the spruce more deeply.