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fiddlerjer

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About fiddlerjer

  • Birthday 05/18/1970

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    http://www.readin.com/blog/
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Red Wing
  • Interests
    Unconventional instruments

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  1. Have you ever noticed a wolf tone on a tone that is not a chromatic note? I used to have a pretty strong wolf on B; after I did some work on recarving my nut, that went away. Yesterday I was playing and noticed I can still hear a slight wolf if I finger Bb a little bit sharp. Seems fine to me, it is extra incentive to learn my finger positions better...
  2. Before the modification, the cello had a strong wolftone at B3 which I was able to remedy by clamping a fishing weight to the A string afterlength. After lowering the string height, the wolftone (a) is much milder, (b) has moved to B♭3, and (c) doesn't go away when I put the fishing weight on. I'm going to try moving the weight around on the afterlength and see if there's any change; if not I'll just leave it alone for the time being, it only causes a slight roughness of tone.
  3. (As regards replacing it at some point with a new nut, I'll need to figure out how to get this one off, first. It looks like I really went to town with the glue when I installed this one. I believe I was using the Tightbond Liquid Hide Glue, maybe if I put some water on it it will weaken, or worst case I can just pare it away with a chisel.)
  4. Since I built my washtub cello a few years ago one of my dissatisfactions with it has been the nut, which was quite slapdash and poorly made. A few weeks ago I carved a model of what I wanted it to look like: I took the instrument apart and set to filing the nut down to size. Results? Well: it is much prettier and the instrument sounds much better. There are issues: the grooves are not well done; I failed to account for how much the strings would pull to the side of the groove, so each groove has a visible line of shadow on the uphill side. In the case of the A string, I took too much material off and the string is about 1/4mm [that's wishfull thinking: it's closer to 1/2mm] downhill from where it should be. I am meaning to carve a new nut (out of ebony) with lessons learned. But for the time being, the sound is very bright and clear, and I'm finding it easier to play notes in tune.
  5. nice idea, is it for cello? Or you use wide purfling in violins?
  6. I made a purfling pick out of a dental pick -- ground the width to 1mm, then flattened the bottom and ground a little bevel.
  7. I hit on what seems to me like a nice trick today. I had been having a lot of trouble with blowing out the collar of pegs -- making a couple of mistakes at different points in the shaping process. I figured out a better tool than what I was using to score around the collar. Now I am using a surgical knife with a #12 hook blade and it's working perfectly. The small blade is more on the scale of the peg than my violin knife blade. (I had been using a 3/8" single-bevel knife.) And the curvature of the blade tracks around the inside of the collar, keeping the knife from wandering.
  8. Yes, a projector. I'm a student at Red Wing. (The scroll in question is property of the school, not mine, and I'm highly grateful to the instructor for allowing me to take it home for the weekend and take measurements.)
  9. Wow, this is a fantastic idea! It seems like such an obvious thing to do now that I hear it. Thanks
  10. Here is how such a scroll could be made and be sturdy. (If one had any desire to create such a turd.) You would just cut the sides of the pegbox all the way to the tip of the neck, and the end of the scroll would be a tongue in between the ends of the neck. The back of the pegbox is the end of the scroll.
  11. Yes the entire violin is extremely non-standard.
  12. The scroll and the pegbox could actually be two totally separate blocks of wood, with a tongue of long grain running out from the scroll and becoming the back of the pegbox. (Note I'm thinking about how to recreate the look, not about how this scroll was made)
  13. My thinking is I will reinforce that portion of the pegpox and scroll with a layer of long grain. No idea how this will work out in the shop, I mean the joint would need to be really exact. Not going to try this for a while anyway.
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