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lhny

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  1. Very good eye! The seller was joyee and it is labeled as a 1743 Guarnieri copy. Sound is, of course, very subjective. At first it sounded very "new." After hanging it up uncased in the living room for about 3 months in an attempt to "age" it a little, the sound really started to open up and become much more complex - been getting better ever since. Currently, I'd say it sounds very good. Plenty of power, strong at higher positions even on the D and G strings and plenty of bottom end. Factor in the price, which was about what it costs to fill up the gas tank on my car twice, and the sound is extraordinary.
  2. I'll toss my 2 cents in. Here are some pics of a chinese ebay violin signed, and claimed to be the work of an individual "master" maker. The seller claimed to be made with euro maple and russian spruce changed strings, chinrest and fine tuner,need to have a better bridge made, but otherwise reasonable well set up Does it look like euro wood to anyone?
  3. lhny

    Warchal

    A set of Brilliant Vintages here as well. Did remarkably well on a 1920's Lyon & Healy Maestro Model 1031. Rich, warm tone, plenty of power as well. Sounded significantly better then Titanium Vision Solos on this violin. As an earlier poster mentioned, they are priced right as well. If there is a Strad sound, and a DG sound, then these strings tend to the DG side.
  4. Apparently, Dan Larson grinds his strings as well. He says that it is pretty much standard in string making, with the variation being whether to grind "wet" with an oil lubricant, or "dry" without one. He writes that he grinds dry primarily to reduce the risk of fire as he reports that the oil used in wet grinding has a low flash point. Your point about Larsen strings having fewer loose fibers sticking out is probably due to his carefully selecting the "right" smooth, or 'left" rough half of the casing and using them appropriately in the construction of his strings.
  5. Thanks for the Back E major suggestion. I just looked at the score - lovely movement. What do you think of: Chopin Nocturne or Puccini's O Mio Babbino Caro - We actually saw Josh Bell play these pieces a few months ago (and had a chance to chat with him for a few minutes after the concert).
  6. I would appreciate some advice on an audition piece for a 12 y.o. The pieces need to be "contrasting" violin solos, one slow and one fast, and one needs to be the first movement of a Mozart Violin concerto. We've decided on the first movement of Mozart's 3rd violin concerto for the "fast" work. I'm looking for advice on the "contrasting" "slow" piece. Any suggestions? Thanks, LH
  7. I'm glad to hear that people still do this kind of thing. When I first heard of it, I decided to try it myself. There is a lot more satisfaction (and potential tendonitis ) in using a file than knocking something out on a vertical mill.
  8. I just took a look at the photo gallery on the companion tools site you recomended. Reminds me of the apprentice "aptitude" test at the old British bespoke shotgun makers Holland & Holland: They used to give the applicants a chunk of steel, a ruler, and a file and told them to come back with a 1" steel cube.
  9. Guess you haven't flown United with your guitar. Take a look at the infamous youtube video:
  10. Thanks for your answer. Good to know that the overall condition of the instrument matters more than the age. Any difference in how often an instrument should be looked at it is played 6 hours a week (300 hours a year) as opposed to an instrument played 30 hours a week (1500 hours a year)?
  11. There have been a number of posts lately indicating that violinists often don't know when to bring their instruments in for maintenance or a check-up, and go far to long without getting proper attention for their instruments. With autos, you get a fairly clear idea on how often a car needs to be cared for; most owner's manuals on new cars these days have scheduled maintenance every 5k or 10k miles. For the benefit of the maintenance ignorant among us What kind of maintenance schedule would you recommend for violins in terms of hours played? Assuming that the violin in question is properly stored in a more or less temperature and humidity controlled environment when not being played, and that the player knows how to properly change strings and keep the bridge upright when necessary, how often (in playing hours) should the following "typical" violins require a visit to the luthier for routine maintenance (check-up, fingerboard planing, bush/refit pegs, etc.) 1) Relatively new (2-50 y.o) violin with no obvious issue (in terms of cracks or seam repairs in the past) 2) 100 years or more old violin with no obvious issues in terms of significant cracks or seam repairs in the past 3) 100 years old or more violin with significant but well repaired cracks etc. My question implies that different levels and frequency of maintenace would be required for the three examples above. If that is not the case, please don't hesitate to let me know Thanks
  12. As long as there is profit in forgery, there will be forgers. Back in college during the pre-computer days, changing your selected courses required a departmental stamp on a form to be handed into the registrar. Knew a chap who made his beer money at the beginning of every semester by stamping students forms with a set of departmental stamps he carved by hand.
  13. Take a look at this new chinrest from wolf claims to be designed specifically to address orthopedic issues.
  14. Glad to help. Neat idea to use the frog. Any small piece of reasonably dense fine grained wood or plastic that someone has laying around should work.
  15. My daughter needed a "wired" violin for some Jazz performances next semester. The conductor of one of the orchestras she plays with was kind enough to provide a Fishman V100 pickup. As far as sound goes, it produces a nice tone when run through a preamp. The problem was the way in which the jack mounts to the violin. On this model, it zip ties to the tailpiece, which didn't seem to be very secure. The alternative is the "carpenter" style mount with chinrest type hardware used on the Fishman V200 and many other brands of pickup. Since I had the V100 on hand, I decided to see if I could come-up with some way to convert it to the more secure, chinrest style mount. I hit the spare parts draw and found a broken chinrest, some sheet cork, a zip tie and a hill "style" chinrest clamp. Pretty happy with the way it came out. Much more compact than the standard "carpenter" style jack, and it only took a few minutes to knock together. Can't really tell from the pic, but I carved a concave groove in the top of the ebony to mate the curve of the jack. Also notched a groove on the opposite surface to lock the zip tie in place.
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